Tops not somooth on soy candles

[Jackie Belote]

I am new so I will look for the answer if it has already been made. I am making soy candles in pint mason jars and the tops are not smooth like I want. I have used several types of 100 % soy wax and the last was a blend. Blend I feel is much worse. I am trying the different pour temps between 90 f and 150 and I still end up with pits our holes and rough pitted tops. I have heated the jars in the oven and that is not working either. I have used the heat gun but I rather get it right and not have to use it. I What am I doing wrong! It has to be the wax. What is the best wax to use?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Jackie

[Trappeur]

Hi Jackie,

 

Beautiful lavender/lilac color you used on the candles first off.

 

It would be helpful if you tell us what the name of the blend of waxes you are using and what percentage you used.

 

I don't do blends of waxes to create a parasoy so I'm sure others will see your post and chime in.  The only thing I can tell by the looks of the pictures is you need a second pour which is a very common thing to do with making candles.  With the little bit of left over wax you should have in your pot, you heat up and then pour a very thin thin layer on top of your candles.  I don't heat gun my tops of candles....I don't even own a heat gun....YOU  wlll just have to learn to pour at a certain temperature if you are doing a one pour candle if that is even possible.  You have to experiment LOTS AND LOTS.....all at different degrees of temperature.  Everyone has to figure out what works best for themselves so you aren't going to get an exact answer but an approximate where to start...

 

Trappeur

[olives]

Hi Jackie, I use GB 464 wax exclusively and I almost always have to do a second pour. Over time, I have learned that certain oils like to be poured at a cooler temp and certain oils look better when poured at a higher temp. Some oils are finicky no matter what and will always require a second pour. I agree, the extra work can be frustrating!

[Jackie Belote]

Thanks for your quick responses. It is one of my favorite colors and I used lilac scent. It does smell nice and the scent lasts after I blow out. I can walk by and catch a whiff anytime.

 

I have only used 3 kinds so far. After looking at the site here I have learned much more than I knew before joining. I thought soy wax was soy wax. I am starting small making 3 jars at a time until I get it down and it is a pound of wax each time. I use my kitchen scale to weigh both the wax and the scent.  I have noticed the blend melts down more and doesn't fill all 3 jars. I get about 2 3/4.  Thankfully I have only bought in small amounts until I figure it out. 

 

1. EcoSoya CB-135 Wax per 10# From Candles and Supplies. It came in the kit. it does not give me much info but it was better than the other 2 I have gotten.

2. Country Lane 100 % soy wax from Hobby Lobby. It does not say anything else about it.

3. Candlewic Natural Soy Wax, 10 lb. Bag   This is a blend with an additive but no clue what that is. It said: This is a good container blend with a 121-125 melt point that is blended with 2% Universal Soy Wax Additive. 

 

I made more last night and used #3 since that is all I have left and took a huge bowl over it to cool. It didn't help.

 

I will try the GB 464 next. 

 

Thanks again for your help. 

 

Jackie

[TallTayl]

Soy waxes and soy blends, IMO/IME look nicer when cooled more quickly.  slow cooling creates large grains.

 

I cool my waxes in a pour pot in front of a large box fan to get them quickly from mixing temp to pouring temp, stirring every few minutes to keep he whole pot the same temp-ish. The difference in finish is noticeable.

 

now, once burned, those smooth, shiny tops will revert back to ugly soy cauliflower grains, but at least they look nice for sale. 

[olives]

18 hours ago, TallTayl said:

Soy waxes and soy blends, IMO/IME look nicer when cooled more quickly.  slow cooling creates large grains.

 

I cool my waxes in a pour pot in front of a large box fan to get them quickly from mixing temp to pouring temp, stirring every few minutes to keep he whole pot the same temp-ish. The difference in finish is noticeable.

 

now, once burned, those smooth, shiny tops will revert back to ugly soy cauliflower grains, but at least they look nice for sale. 

TallTayl, I recently started stirring the wax in my pouring pot periodically as it cooled, and I agree - it definitely makes a difference in how the tops set!

[Jackie Belote]

Received my gb 444 Saturday, wicks FO and color.  Just now getting to try it out. Already i see a difference in others i have used. Flakes are much smaller. Melted faster. Liquid color is a bit messy in samples. Probably better with an eye dropper.  I feel like a smurf. Fingers crossed. 

 

Tomorrow my gb 464 arrives. Give that a shot tomorrow night. 

[birdcharm]

Looks good ... and I see you left some room at the top in case you need to top up a little ... I bet they'll be fine!

 

[Jackie Belote]

I did need to top off. I see air bubbles when i did. The one on right is more. 

Edited May 1, 2017 by Jackie Belote
Wont let me post video

[Jackie Belote]

[Jackie Belote]

Yep. Air bubbles. Should i have let cool a bit longer before topping off?

[Trappeur]

In my opinion I wouldn't buy wax or wicks or supplies from Hobby Lobby.....  Buy from a "candle company".  Candles and Supplies and Candlewick are very reputable companies that have been around a long time and you can buy quality merchandise from both of them.  There are many many other companies out there as well.  There is a list of companies on this forum.

 

I myself would not take a plate or a bowl and place over the top of your candle to cool it.  I think that is going to create rough looking tops.   When it is cool and my house is more cooler than normal if I have poured candles I will at times just place a sheet of paper over the tops but it is not a tight fit as a bowl.  I do this to prevent cracking of the tops.

 

After you poured the candles how long did they sit before you did a top off?   Also what temperature approximately did you do the top off at when pouring?

 

Trappeur

 

 

[GoldieMN]

When I get this look on first pour, there are air bubbles down inside the candle.  So I poke with a skewer as I do a second pour so the hot wax fills in those air pockets. The candle is softer in those areas, and I can feel that with the skewer.  Not sure I explained that fully.

Goldie

[birdcharm]

It would be interesting to know when these candles were topped ... I'd top them again, it looks like there is still a little room ... or, use a heat gun to smooth them out.  I typically top off the next morning or afternoon if I poured the night before.

Edited May 3, 2017 by birdcharm

[Chariste]

I am slowly, painfully, and expensively testing to possibly switch from Eco Soya Advanced to GB 464. I have poured undyed the 10 oz classic (the 12 sided jar), 9 oz hex, 22 oz Libbey storage, 16 oz Mason, and votives so far. I have not yet burned due to 2 week cure. My tops are amazing. Single pour, smooth as a dream. The larger the jar, the cooler I poured. 135* for votive, classic, and hex, 125* for Mason, down to 100* for the Libbey. Wet spots are very small and fewer than Advanced.

 

Now, when I started about a year ago, I tried the 464 and hated it. The tops were ugly and pitted though a repour/heat gun would fix. But every one had horrible frosting. Cold and hot throw were great. All these original test candles were dyed. I don't know if the current undyed batch is frosted or if I just can't see it, lol, but they finish their cure in 2 days. The first dyed candles took 3-4 days to frost.

 

I heat to 165*, add FO @ 9% on heat, stir, remove, stir, let cool in the pot with occasional stir, then pour at the temps above. As it's the first test batch, I wicked with what worked in Advanced--CD 10 for classic and hex, CD 12 for Mason, ECO 2 for votive, Libbey is new so did one ECO 16, one CD 20, and CD 22.

 

Sidenote on the CB 135, Eco Soya is changing their formula and from what I've read here, do it fairly often as in every few years. That is why I am abandoning the line and moving toward Golden Brands. Just something for you to consider.

 

Hope this helps, test, test, test! Good luck, looks like you are off to a great start!

 

[Jackie Belote]

Thanks for all your suggestions and help. I plan to try again tomorrow night on another batch. I finally got a great one on the first pour! Nice and smooth. Gb 444 heated to 185  fo at 125 and pour at 100. 2 days curw and i see frosting on glass. Otherwise i was happy!

[Hawkeye7]

On 4/27/2017 at 8:16 PM, TallTayl said:

Soy waxes and soy blends, IMO/IME look nicer when cooled more quickly.  slow cooling creates large grains.

 

I cool my waxes in a pour pot in front of a large box fan to get them quickly from mixing temp to pouring temp, stirring every few minutes to keep he whole pot the same temp-ish. The difference in finish is noticeable.

 

now, once burned, those smooth, shiny tops will revert back to ugly soy cauliflower grains, but at least they look nice for sale. 

Do you have any problems with cold throw using the box fan method. I've just started having a box fan blow over the jars while they cool. The immediate cold throw is not as strong as before. But they sure look awesome! Maybe the cold throw will get better as they cure?

 

thoughts?

 

[TallTayl]

I cool the pour pots, not the jars.  Fans on the jars made massive cavities. Other than that, zero difference in cold throw. Nada. 

[Hawkeye7]

Funny, TallTayl, I've had the opposite experience. Fan (on low) blowing gently over the curing jars has given me glass-like tops. Just the throw is a little softer–at first, I hope.

 

I'll try your method too and see what happens. Thanks for chiming in.

[TallTayl]

54 minutes ago, Hawkeye7 said:

Funny, TallTayl, I've had the opposite experience. Fan (on low) blowing gently over the curing jars has given me glass-like tops. Just the throw is a little softer–at first, I hope.

 

I'll try your method too and see what happens. Thanks for chiming in.

i got glass like tops, but when poked the cavities beneath the pretty surface were massive regardless of the container material, size or type. Cavities like that lead to flaring and self-extinguishing, so i no longer force rapid cool in individual containers.  Pretty is as pretty does.