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Um... WHY?


Sponiebr

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Just a quickie here.... 
:shocked2:

 

So my goats milk, honey, and oat flour formulation is the same fats mix that I use in ALL of my other formulations... However, no matter HOW I vary the fats (add them remove them, whatever) this OHM soap ALWAYS starts to rice on me and ALWAYS takes FOREVER to trace... What IS it about this soap that slows down the trace? Is it the goat's milk? 

Curiouser and Curiouser... 

Sponiebr

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9 hours ago, Candybee said:

If you don't mind sharing your recipe in exact amounts with additives someone may be able to help you out. Sorry that's happening to you. That's a bummer!

WHAT!? And give away the keys to the KINGDOM!? o.O (Oh... Shirley... You jester you! ) ;)

Well, I can... But it's exclusively my goats milk and honey soap that does this exact same thing, every single time, even when I'm using different SF and oils... I think it's a process issue. Let me elaborate... First of all, I don't use honey in anything but my OMH soap,(well, there was that ONE time... at band camp when I made the dinosaur poop, but that was HP, and frankly I REALLY don't WANT to know what HP did to make the dino poop, the only thing that matters is that the dino feels better now...)  2. I ALWAYS add my honey into my lye water and I ONLY use VERY cold lye+honey water when soaping (because of the milk in the fats.) 

I also use Meyerberg powdered goats milk in both dry and reconstituted form... Same exact difference in both instances. SLOW moving trace gets ricey and then recombines... One other special ingredient is Arrowhead Mills Organic Oat flour.  I use a pretty substanial amount of honey and oat flour in this soap... I started with about 1 oz PPO of Powdered milk, Honey, and Oat flour EACH. This last batch was 80 oz fats and 71 g honey, 250 g. yogurt, 10 tbls milk powder, 25g kaolin, 2 oz OMH FO... 5 tsp Sodium lactate, and 10 g oat flour? I think it was 10 g... I dunno it was supposed to be 5 tblsp. of oat flour I think. (the batch print off from soap calc with all of my notes is at work...)  OH... AND one VERY large FLuffed up ball about the size of a grapefruit of tussah silk...(I chopped that summabitch up in there too... Yeah... I like french fried taters... Uh-huh...) 

The precise fats blends have varied over the many batches I have made (100% CO at 20% SF down to my current GV shortening, PO, CO, OO, Cas blend... All have the same effect SLOW trace and they ricey bit... I mean, don't get me wrong, the soap is WONDERFUL, I'm just kinda curious about WHY this ONE type of soap behaves this way. If I had to have a gut reaction I'd say it's the honey and lye mix that's slowing it all down. 


Anywho... I'll see if I can find one of my formulations, but I'll be honest it's always been 38% water... And I'm down to about 1/2 oz PPO of honey, and dry measures on the rest of the additives (save for the silk and that I just add until I "feel" "good" about it...) THe FO is weighed out. 


Happy Easter! 

Sponiebr

 

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@Candybee

M'kay... Here's the first one, and the one that also took the longest to trace: 

Water: 291 g
Lye: 112 g

CO 764 g

46 g Great Value Honey mixed into lye solution and chilled to almost freezing. 
46 g Goat milk powder mixed directly into fats dry. 
46 g oat flour.

SF was 20%
(yes... That was my first time making a modern "artsy" "one-off" soap... I'm more "experienced" now... ;) )  

-sponiebr
 

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Why the Honey I say get rid of it and get a Honey FO

 

i use  Cybillas OMH from Brambleberry my favorite.

i just got a Honey scent from Bittercreek North but I am planning on making a straight Honey soap whenever my arm gets better it is taking forever.

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Ricing sounds more like a FO issue. I have only had certain FO's rice on me.

 

Re the honey, I use 1 oz for a 3.5 lb batch of soap. I heat the honey for 15-20 blast in the micro to liquify it, then temper it with goat milk then add directly to my soap batter before I add my lye. I always liquify my honey before adding. I do that because I had brownish spots on the bottom of my soaps when I didn't.

 

 

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Same as TT. I only mix lye with water also. I only use enough water to dissolve the lye and the rest of the liquid amount is normally goat and coconut milk with my additives blended in. I put honey in a small amount of water and heat it in the microwave for a few seconds and it goes in my oils. Sounds like maybe it's the fragrance though. 

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Oh, wow... I'm going to try and do this as efficiently as possible... 


 

8 hours ago, Barbara AL said:

Why the Honey I say get rid of it and get a Honey FO

 

i use  Cybillas OMH from Brambleberry my favorite.

i just got a Honey scent from Bittercreek North but I am planning on making a straight Honey soap whenever my arm gets better it is taking forever.

Humectant... 
 

8 hours ago, Barbara AL said:

Just read you froze your Honey and put it in the lye water,

a better solution mix the Honey in hot distilled water and add it to the oils but not the lye water after light trace.

NOPE! I nuke my honey to make it runny and easy to pour and add it to the lye water. Then after the honey lye solution has cooled down I chill the lye solution before soaping because I, dunno... don't want a volcano from the milk reacting with the lye? 
 

7 hours ago, Candybee said:

 

Ricing sounds more like a FO issue. I have only had certain FO's rice on me.

 

Re the honey, I use 1 oz for a 3.5 lb batch of soap. I heat the honey for 15-20 blast in the micro to liquify it, then temper it with goat milk then add directly to my soap batter before I add my lye. I always liquify my honey before adding. I do that because I had brownish spots on the bottom of my soaps when I didn't.

 

 

This last batch is the first time I've ever used an FO in my OHM soap. I only used a OHM FO this time to try it out... If ever I DO use an FO in my OHM it'll most likely be an almond scent. 

 

5 hours ago, TallTayl said:

Is it Ricing or curdling? 


Ah! There is a difference! SEE!? THIS is why I get along SO well with all y'all! 

TT, I believe the more appropriate term would be curdling. (First time I've heard that descriptor used in soaping) 


 

 

5 hours ago, TallTayl said:

Re:honey, I blend it into some water, then into the pot it goes. I don't generally put much into the lye waster because I don't love the burned smell.

Yeah, I feel ya there... TBH I hate the smell of this soap during the whole process. It smells like cold stale hangover piss in a diaper... ( o.O ) Yuck. 
The only reason I have been adding my honey into the lye is because I want it to get all of it's hot and heavy action done so it can CALMLY make my soap for me. I don't need my honey having a blowout in the pot or in my mold... 

I also confirmed yesterday that this soap makes ammonia. I put the overage into my column mold and sealed it up the next day when I opened it up there was a strong smell of ammonia, (enough to make me blink), out of the sealed tube. Doesn't surprise me... 


Happy Easter All Y'all! 

Sponiebr
 

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13 hours ago, Barbara AL said:

Sponiebr I use Sodium Lactate as a humectant also helps with release the soap earlier out of the mold. I hope you can gets this worked out.

Yep! I put some SL in this batch too... (It's really nice soap BTW...)

Don't get me wrong... There's nothing wrong with this soap, in fact this is one of my war horses, I was just curious as to the cause of the slow trace when I make OMH. 

'sides, Let's face it... I make a CP pine tar and beeswax soleseif soap and there's not many other soaps as crazy as that one... ;) (OOOOOOO! SALT bar pine tar beeswax... THAT'S a BAD idea RIGHT THERE!!! Gotta DO IT!) 

Hopefully, I'll get some pictures of the OMH batch up soon.

 (mebbe after the lawyer crap though...) 

Thanks all for the input! :)

Sponiebr

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