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April 2016 Soap of the Month


Chefmom

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Moonstar

 

I opened the can of Pine Tar (I found the same one in Chefmom's picture) and my husband, brother in law and I all took a sniff. 

It curled our nose hairs back LOL.  It had a pungent aroma to me right out of the can....definitely smell pine notes and earth.  I am betting once it gets in soap

it will be great.    When my husband goes up to Kenora Canada for hunting each year....he says the pine smell is soooo strong up there.  He

always takes pine branches and rubs it on himself to help mask his scent.   He has this spray stuff he buys to spray his clothes....think it's called "essence of fall"....but

it's supposed to make you smell like the earth....he's always told me I should make a scented soap that smells like that.  

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On 5/24/2016 at 11:03 AM, debratant said:

I was able to get the pine tar.   I'm going to attempt your recipe this weekend.  

I do not have sodium lactate....is that part necessary?  

 

I don't think you will have any issues.  Sodium Lactate is something I started using with all my recipes because I primarily do hot process and it really makes the batter looser, and even with my cold process recipes I have just gotten in the habit of using it with every recipe.  The only difference I can think of that you might run into is the fact that your soap may take longer to set up than my timeline.  I have read that people use it in cold process to help the soap retract from the mold and allow a clean surface for unmolding.  Without side by side tests I don't know if that is true or not.  Good Luck!!  :)

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On 5/24/2016 at 11:23 AM, Moonstar said:

WOW ! Just beautiful - i love the dark natural color of the soap. You mentioned that the recipe is good for sensitive skin - do you think its conditioning 

enough for say, dry or mature skin. Im not sure what pine tar smells like though lol !  gotta try this one out ! Thank you for sharing :) 

Without making health and healing claims on my soap....I think it's a great soap to try for problem skin issues.  Pine tar shampoos and soaps have been used for a very long time for just that, sensitive skin issues, eczema, psoriasis,  dry skin etc.  This particular recipe has been noted to be conditioning for people with several different skin issues, and I use it with infused herbs as well.  The smell of the pine tar is pungent, but in my opinion it mellows nicely as it cures.

 

I have a dog shampoo that is for problem dog skin and its a pine tar shampoo, although after using it I started using my tea tree soap on my dogs, and I'm thinking that my own pine tar with tea tree might be a good idea.  Changing my Pugs diet has made the biggest difference in his overall life and so far he hasn't had any skin issues this year...he still gets baths because he always likes to get dirty. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally made this soap last night.  I had to change up a few of your ingredients because I didn't have.  I subbed the WM shortening for Lard and used sweet almond

oil instead of avocado.  I had to play around with the percentages on soap calc to get the qualities almost like yours.

 

So, when I mixed the pine tar with the water...initially I thought....good lord....I can't do it!   Having never smelled pine tar....I was quite taken aback and started wondering

how the hell is my husband going to like this?  He complains about half the soaps I make and the smell of them.  NO WAY will he like this.  I kept going back and huffing it while my stuff was cooling down LOL.   Sooooo....I added 1 oz of lavender essential oil to the oils....am I proud of myself?  NOPE.  I should have just left it alone....next time I will.

 

It went fine.  I had everything ready to go...and you are not kidding....it moves quick.  I got it all in the mold pretty smoothly actually....until I scraped the bowl...there was only a bit left but I clumped it on there.  I used my tall skinny silicone mold and it fit perfectly in that but the center bowed a bit before I could get my books on the side of it to keep it straight....it was already setting up and was quite warm so my center is a bit bowed, but who cares.  By the time I finished cleaning up my area....that mold was quite hot.   No cracks though....and I was able to unmold and cut it today when I came home from work.  

 

I did add 2 TBLS of salt to my lye water....which probably helped with being able to unmold this quick.  Usually my soap is still a bit soft in this mold and I have to wait a few days.

 

Next time...I will just let the pine tar be the scent instead of wimping out and adding something.  It still smells good....and I tried an end piece and the

bubbles and creamyness  are amazing!

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On 6/7/2016 at 11:05 PM, debratant said:

I finally made this soap last night.  I had to change up a few of your ingredients because I didn't have.  I subbed the WM shortening for Lard and used sweet almond

oil instead of avocado.  I had to play around with the percentages on soap calc to get the qualities almost like yours.

 

So, when I mixed the pine tar with the water...initially I thought....good lord....I can't do it!   Having never smelled pine tar....I was quite taken aback and started wondering

how the hell is my husband going to like this?  He complains about half the soaps I make and the smell of them.  NO WAY will he like this.  I kept going back and huffing it while my stuff was cooling down LOL.   Sooooo....I added 1 oz of lavender essential oil to the oils....am I proud of myself?  NOPE.  I should have just left it alone....next time I will.

 

It went fine.  I had everything ready to go...and you are not kidding....it moves quick.  I got it all in the mold pretty smoothly actually....until I scraped the bowl...there was only a bit left but I clumped it on there.  I used my tall skinny silicone mold and it fit perfectly in that but the center bowed a bit before I could get my books on the side of it to keep it straight....it was already setting up and was quite warm so my center is a bit bowed, but who cares.  By the time I finished cleaning up my area....that mold was quite hot.   No cracks though....and I was able to unmold and cut it today when I came home from work.  

 

I did add 2 TBLS of salt to my lye water....which probably helped with being able to unmold this quick.  Usually my soap is still a bit soft in this mold and I have to wait a few days.

 

Next time...I will just let the pine tar be the scent instead of wimping out and adding something.  It still smells good....and I tried an end piece and the

bubbles and creamyness  are amazing!

Very good to hear!!  And yes, the initial smell can set some people back.  I grew up in the horse world, so to me it smells like horse liniment and various things around an average stable, so I didn't think it was as bad as many people described.  The first time I made it my daughter walked in just after pouring and turned up her nose and looked at me in horror.  Then she pinched her nose and said "there is NO WAY anyone would want to BATHE with that smell!!" Yet hours later my husband and son were both saying "wow, I really like THAT one!!"  We all smell things differently.

 

I'm wondering if the lavender scent will come through at all.  I've read that people use tea tree, cedarwood and eucalyptus as complimentary scents, but I've never scented mine yet. 

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  • 1 month later...

Update for Chefmom or anyone interested.

 

I made my pine tar soap using tea tree and lavender EOs. I used a basic recipe of olive, coconut, palm, shea, and castor and even used 33% water discount with 5% superfat. The finished soap scent smells lovely. Hard to explain/describe the scent but I am loving it. The lavender and tea tree withstood the curing process and the longer it cures the more I love the scent. The pine tar mellows and the tea tree and lavender come through. The lavender works to tame the both the tea tree and the pine tar and give it a hint of floral with a nice herbal notes. The scent combo grows on you and I am so glad I tried it!

 

When I debuted the soap at a local market my customers loved it and I sold out. So I made 2 new large production batches and it is now in my permanent line of soap. My customers have been asking for a tea tree soap for a long time and I think the combo of the pine tar and tea tree are what sells it. But the lavender really tames the two scents and brings it all together.

 

I highly recommend anyone who is thinking of this combo to try it. I used the EOs at 5% or 1/2 oz PPO. I split the lavender and tea tree at 1:1. The scent of the cured soap is beautiful, woodsy, herbal, earthy, and floral!

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On 7/25/2016 at 0:05 PM, Candybee said:

Update for Chefmom or anyone interested.

 

I made my pine tar soap using tea tree and lavender EOs. I used a basic recipe of olive, coconut, palm, shea, and castor and even used 33% water discount with 5% superfat. The finished soap scent smells lovely. Hard to explain/describe the scent but I am loving it. The lavender and tea tree withstood the curing process and the longer it cures the more I love the scent. The pine tar mellows and the tea tree and lavender come through. The lavender works to tame the both the tea tree and the pine tar and give it a hint of floral with a nice herbal notes. The scent combo grows on you and I am so glad I tried it!

 

When I debuted the soap at a local market my customers loved it and I sold out. So I made 2 new large production batches and it is now in my permanent line of soap. My customers have been asking for a tea tree soap for a long time and I think the combo of the pine tar and tea tree are what sells it. But the lavender really tames the two scents and brings it all together.

 

I highly recommend anyone who is thinking of this combo to try it. I used the EOs at 5% or 1/2 oz PPO. I split the lavender and tea tree at 1:1. The scent of the cured soap is beautiful, woodsy, herbal, earthy, and floral!

 

Wonderful to know Candybee!  I'll definitely give the essential oils a try with my next batch...which will be soon.  :)

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 4/2/2016 at 9:51 AM, puma52 said:

This soap has got me thinking....question for ya Chefmom.....do you think a person could add a scent to this soap or would the tar smell overwhelm any other scent you think? I COULD so see a soap called Tar and Dirt on my shelf with activated charcoal added in there somewhere....what do you think? Did I just ruin my soap? :) 

I use peppermint EO in mine, and I love it. The only thing is, if you have company you need to make sure they don't go off and try the AH-MAAAZE-ING looking chocolate mint fudge... 

 

My recipes for pine tar soap have been single fat recipes, (the soap is only for me), 20% pine tar 80% whatever fat I've settled on, 10% superfat with (I'm doing the disclaimer now: I DO NOT RECOMMEND this much unless you know what you're getting into) 1 oz PPO Peppermint EO. (yes, you read that right and that's why I did the disclaimer) I've not used SL in my batches and while they are a little soft, they're not too soft  for my tastes. I've made it with lard, but I can't stand the smell of lard in my soap, it's a personal problem I have. I've also made it with beef tallow from Soaper's Choice. The beef tallow batch is actually a pretty darn good soap and has more of a true earthy smell to it if you leave out the peppermint. The tallow soap would probably lather better with a little CO and castor. My favorite batches to date though have been made with Crisco. Crisco made the softest of the different fats, but I, and anyone who tried both my tallow and Crisco soaps, liked the Crisco the best.

 

I really want to try your recipe Chefmom. (I'm still totally adding in my ounce PPO of peppermint, 'cause the tingle must LIVE ON!!!) I definitely don't have any SL and I don't have any AO. I don't know where I'd even get some Avocado oil locally. I wonder, if salting the batch might harden it up? I've never made salt bars before so I don't know if the salt would cause this to move even more quickly than it already does. 

 

Chefmom, how fast did your recipe move on you? My batches were moving at about 45-55 seconds from combined extremely light trace to "OMG, I just barely got it into the mold with no gloppy top. (Soap hard on the side of the bowl.) I would think the OO would slow your recipe down significantly. (comparatively speaking) 

 

What a fun thread and a really nice toot! 

 

Slainte,

Sponie

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10 hours ago, Sponiebr said:

I really want to try your recipe Chefmom. (I'm still totally adding in my ounce PPO of peppermint, 'cause the tingle must LIVE ON!!!) I definitely don't have any SL and I don't have any AO. I don't know where I'd even get some Avocado oil locally. I wonder, if salting the batch might harden it up? I've never made salt bars before so I don't know if the salt would cause this to move even more quickly than it already does. 

 

Chefmom, how fast did your recipe move on you? My batches were moving at about 45-55 seconds from combined extremely light trace to "OMG, I just barely got it into the mold with no gloppy top. (Soap hard on the side of the bowl.) I would think the OO would slow your recipe down significantly. (comparatively speaking) 

 

My recipe moved fast, roughly from the moment it was fully stirred in to glopping the last bits out was 2 minutes.  I know from making salt bars that the salt speeds up the timing, so the two together would be a definite race to the mold.  That's one reason that I make sure my temperatures are just right, if it's too hot it might speed things up even faster, so with pine tar soaps I like to just take my time, the real action is in the last minutes. 

 

In that formula the avocado oil is swappable.  I routinely swap it out for sunflower, safflower, or almond oil.  Run it back through soap calc to cross check the lye and to formulate it for your size tho. 

 

I agree about Crisco tho, I have used generic shortening for years to make good soaps.  I am just using the last of my stores of the shortening before they all changed over to the new formulations.  From here on I'm trying to formulate my own recipes to move away from commercial shortening.  I don't like that they just change the formulations...I haven't tried the new version yet to see if it makes any difference in the soaps or not.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If it helps I used 45% olive oil in my 56oz soap recipe with 1/3 of the can of pine tar. I was able to work with the batter long enough to pour it into the mold without any dilly dallying around. I still had to work fast with that much olive oil. I only had time to do a very quick simple texture swirl on the top with a chop stick. After that it was hard. I made 2 batches and found I had to work fairly quickly from the time I blended in the pine tar to the time I swirl textured the top before it was too hard.

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Just a note: I made a (erm) similarly formulated batch last night.  I'll be honest I didn't see much in the way of an improvement by separating the oils and leaving the pine tar out until the last nano second.  Even the plain oils with the peppermint EO and a little FO traced pretty quick, (1-2 minutes only using a whisk.) 

 

I remembered something: Pinetar soaps HEAT UP. They will definitely go through gel phase. I haven't been able to get around that yet. I think my batch turned out nice. 1 pound batch 4.4% peppermint EO (my preference only) 10 ml. Mountain Morning Mist FO and 20% pine tar. I'll attach my soapcalc sheet. 1 lb. GV tallow and palm shortening Pine tar with Peppermint EO and Mountain Morning Mist FO Test batch.jpg

 

Cheers! 

 

Sponie

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On 9/2/2016 at 10:04 AM, Sponiebr said:

Here are the pictures of the soap 15 minutes after molding and this morning: 

Ok, so some notes about my batch: 

 

1: even with dividing the oil and tar (FO and EO + 2/3 of the plain oils and 1/3 plain oils + pine tar dissolved.) the plain oil with the FO and EO still traced VERY quickly( >2 min.) When I added the pine tar it was done in 4 turns of the whisk and into the mold. I always make my pine tar soap at 20% pine tar and 10 SF and generally with pretty close to .75-1 oz peppermint EO PPO and if I split the tar off or just add it all in at one time my time from all lye in the pot to:

IT HAS TO BE IN THE MOLD ALREADY DO IT!!! DO IT!!! DO IT NOW!!! MOVE! MOVE! MOVE!!!!  is always 45-50 seconds and the bowl as it hits the sink has hardened soap on the sides. Also I didn't use any sodium lactate. 

 

That's the other thing, when I make pine tar soap my lye is ice cold, fats are just barely warm and I ONLY stir with a whisk and a plastic spoon. 

 

Ok, so by the Grace of God I had no slip ups and the choreography went perfect-ish. Some of the pine tar cooled at the very bottom of it's yogurt cup and stuck there so I didn't get all the pine tar out. Everything else went mostly as expected. I really didn't expect a > 2 min trace from the plain oils that was a little odd. 

 

2. Pine tar soap heats up all by it's self, you don't need to help it with more heat. In fact, if you CAN put it into your mold and then put your mold into a freezer I would highly recommend it so that you can keep the soap from going through gel phase. (That's just me, and it usually isn't a very important issue.... usually...) 

 

3. I tried to unmold after 24 hrs. and nothing do'n. Pine tar soaps are sticky, at least for me they're sticky. I pulled the silicone liner out of the box and after I determined that the soap at the bottom was sticking to the mold I stuck the loaf into a freezer for 30 minutes (it might have been an hour). After the soap was chilled nicely I was able to unmold my little 1 lb. batch and cut it to size. 

 

The soap turned out looking absolutely beautiful. The peppermint gassing off was too powerful for the house so I put my cure crate with a towel over it into a dehumidified if slightly warm craft room. 

 

I got no zap after 24 hours. That's right, I licked it immediately after cutting it. No ZAP. There IS a significant amount of peppermint EO in my soap and I totally felt that, but I felt none of the burning I would get from a zap test. The soap on my hands and the remains in the bowl passed the hand wash test perfectly, no drying out of my hands. The soap is still VERY much in need of drying so I won't use it until it's had a chance to lose some of the water. 

 

Anywho, just thought I'd share my notes about this last test batch of pine tar peppermint EO and Mountain Morning Mist FO for your foamy edification. 

 

Slainte,

 

Sponie

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  • 4 months later...
On 6/7/2016 at 11:05 PM, debratant said:

I finally made this soap last night.  I had to change up a few of your ingredients because I didn't have.  I subbed the WM shortening for Lard and used sweet almond

oil instead of avocado.  I had to play around with the percentages on soap calc to get the qualities almost like yours.

 

So, when I mixed the pine tar with the water...initially I thought....good lord....I can't do it!   Having never smelled pine tar....I was quite taken aback and started wondering

how the hell is my husband going to like this?  He complains about half the soaps I make and the smell of them.  NO WAY will he like this.  I kept going back and huffing it while my stuff was cooling down LOL.   Sooooo....I added 1 oz of lavender essential oil to the oils....am I proud of myself?  NOPE.  I should have just left it alone....next time I will.

 

It went fine.  I had everything ready to go...and you are not kidding....it moves quick.  I got it all in the mold pretty smoothly actually....until I scraped the bowl...there was only a bit left but I clumped it on there.  I used my tall skinny silicone mold and it fit perfectly in that but the center bowed a bit before I could get my books on the side of it to keep it straight....it was already setting up and was quite warm so my center is a bit bowed, but who cares.  By the time I finished cleaning up my area....that mold was quite hot.   No cracks though....and I was able to unmold and cut it today when I came home from work.  

 

I did add 2 TBLS of salt to my lye water....which probably helped with being able to unmold this quick.  Usually my soap is still a bit soft in this mold and I have to wait a few days.

 

Next time...I will just let the pine tar be the scent instead of wimping out and adding something.  It still smells good....and I tried an end piece and the

bubbles and creamyness  are amazing!

So how did hubby end up thinking of his soap lol ! I think Chiefmom's pics look amazing ! Having no idea what pine-tar smells like, I'll have to take your word 

for it lol ! I really think Im gonna try this in the Spring or summer. After curing how would you describe the natural scent it has ? 

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On 3/24/2016 at 7:33 PM, Chefmom said:

IMG_20160324_120151290.jpg

 

Cold Processed Pine Tar Soap

 

 Pine tar soap is a humble addition to a soap makers line.  An old fashioned soap that is loved by people with sensitive skin, lovers of earthy fresh scents and even by hunters who wish to not carry human scent into the woods.  I personally like to cure my soaps for 8 weeks or longer regardless of cold or hot process, so I do not bother with making pine tar soap by the hot process method.  Early Spring to the start of Summer is the perfect time of year to make pine tar to tuck away and have the soap cured in time for fall hunting season as well as the dry months of Winter. 

 

Even though it sounds simple, the addition of pine tar accelerates the soap batter and without careful planning it can easily get away from you, turning from fluid to thick spackle within minutes.  Careful planning and attention to detail with a distraction free window of time can see you through the process smoothly. 

 

 

My recipe is my own formulation, a family favorite with readily available grocery store oils in a common 32 ounce(900g) of oil formula.  With the addition of pine tar outside of the oil weight it will overflow a usual 32 ounce mold, so have an individual bar mold on stand by for any left over batter.  I have the recipe in grams, but refer to the soapcalc photo provided for the translation to ounces.  I do not add any fragrance, for the pine tar has its own scent and many essential oils would just be lost.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ingredients:

 

363 grams distilled water divided into 100g and 263g

 

124 grams sodium hydroxide (formulated for 5% superfat)

 

 

 

 

318 grams Wal Mart GV brand Tallow based shortening with palm

 

136 grams coconut oil

318 grams olive oil

 

91 grams avocado oil

 

45 grams castor oil

 

 

 

25 grams sodium lactate

 

 

 

182 grams pine tar (formulated to 20% of oil weight)

 

SoapCalc Pine Tar recipe.jpg

 

IMG_20160316_184435737.jpg

 

 

Equipment needed:

Vessel large enough to hold a 32 ounce oil batch of soap

Silicone spatula

Three plastic containers for lye, water and pine tar mixture

Accurate working digital scale

Soap molds.  I prefer the HDPE molds that come apart with individual silicone molds for back up

Freezer paper if needed to line your mold, I line for the insurance aspect of it

Thermometer

Stick blender

Chop sticks for stirring lye water

Distilled water, lye and recipe oils

100% pine tar, usually found at farm and feed stores.  It is used on horses hooves and in liniment formulations

Saucepan to melt hard oils on the stove

 

collage 1.jpg

 

I start with mixing the pine tar with the 100grams of distilled water.  The can is like a paint can and needs pried off with a flat screwdriver, and like paint it makes a mess of the rim.  In very cold weather it will be thicker in consistency.

 

Next, weigh your distilled water and lye, ALWAYS combine the lye into the water and stir with your chop stick until the mixture is clear.  Set aside to cool.

IMG_20160316_185907692_HDR.jpg

 

With a small spatula I stir until the pine tar and water are combined.  It will look separated, but a good stir will bring it together.  Set aside until needed.

 

collage 6.jpg

 

Keep the rim tidy by wiping it inside the groove with a paper towel or wet wipe and your screwdriver. 

 

Weigh the liquid oils into your soap bowl and set aside, then weigh the hard oils into your saucepan, break up any chunks with a heavy spatula and melt on low heat until completely melted.  Allow to cool.

 

I documented the cooling time to be between 1 hour and 30 minutes to 1 hour and 45 minutes in my 68F(20C) kitchen the day I made this batch.  You can easily prep your ingredients, keep the lye water in a safe place and walk away until everything is cool enough to proceed.  When the lye water was 90F (32C), my hard fats were hovering about 98F (36C), once I combined them with the liquid oils, the whole temperature fell to 78F (25C), which was perfect to proceed.  Be sure to prep your molds if needed before you start or at this time when you are waiting for the fats and lye to cool.  You need everything ready because the actual process goes very quickly.

 

IMG_20160316_201334667.jpg

 

collage 2.jpg

 

Slowly pour the lye into the oil mixture, stick blend ONLY until you see a light trace.  As long as the mixture is fully emulsified and it reaches a light trace, you can proceed.  Do not use the stick blender again, you will finish with only the spatula to mix the pine tar into the batter.  Scrape it into the soap batter and then stir until the color is even. 

 

collage 3.jpg

 

Once the color is even its time to pour, work steady because as you pour into the mold, you can see by the photos that the mixture will thicken in front of your eyes.  In the four photos the time that went by was a mere 2 minutes between the first and fourth photo. 

 

collage 4.jpg

 

While the beginning of the pour is quite liquid, the end of the pour is more thick, like cooked and chilled pudding.  Take your spatula and help the batter into the corners of the mold. I trim the top of my loaf mold, so I overfill just a little to have a smooth cut top in the end.

 

IMG_20160316_202054003_HDR.jpg

 

The thick scrapings of the bowl are pressed into the individual mold and smoothed as much as I can. 

 

IMG_20160316_202438300.jpg

 

I do not insulate my soap, I just allow it to set on the counter.  The individuals were warm, but the loaf mold was obviously gelling, though not to the edge and the feel of the mold was also warm, but no cracking or movement at all. 

 

pair 1.jpg

 

IMG_20160317_091050536.jpg

 

I made this soap in the evening, and the next morning, about 14-15 hours after it was made it was perfect to remove from the molds and to cut.  I start by slicing the top level before taking the mold off the soap. 

 

IMG_20160317_091133414_HDR.jpg

 

I pull off the sides of the mold and then peel the liner off. 

 

IMG_20160317_091309372.jpg

 

pair 2.jpg

 

 

The individuals pop right out with a gentle hand I just turn the mold upsidedown and gently press on the back.  The one on the right was made with the very first pour of the batter, before the loaf mold.  And the one on the left was the thick left over batter scrapped out of the bowl. 

 

collage 5.jpg

 

I usually use my wire soap cutter, but this batch is for my husband, who travels for work.  I cut these bars to last a little longer at 1 1/4-inch thick (3.5cm).  For basic cuts I prefer using a quilters grid ruler, it comes in handy for many uses around the house and craft areas.  It is easy to lay on top of the loaf, line up with the grid marks and make tic marks with the knife where I want to cut.  I sliced off a thin slice as the first end cut, and cut those in half for hand washing or sample sizes.  The rest were cut according to the tic marks. 

 

IMG_20160317_135118431.jpg

 

This photo is of a freshly made bar of pine tar and one that is 6 months old.  There is very little difference between the two bars, the older one is just a touch smaller, and just a touch darker in color…but not by much. 

 

IMG_20160317_135548017.jpg

 

The finished bars are set on a cardboard pad and will cure open air for one week, then get packed away in their cardboard box.  I prefer to cure in boxes on a shelf in my basement.  While 8 weeks is my standard cure time, I really love this bar after a solid 6 months cure.

 

The trimmed bits of soap are chopped up and then mixed into another batch of soap to make Hodgepodge or Confetti soaps.  Nothing goes to waste!

 

While pine tar can be added to any working soap recipe as an addition in any amount up to 20% of the oil weight, I have personally only made pine tar soap with this recipe.  I can not say with any experience if the process is changed with a different base formulation.  I think the key to success though is cool working temperatures and working quickly as soon as the pine tar is added. 

 

I hope this tutorial helps those that have not tried pine tar soap or those who have tried and run into snags along the way.  It’s a classic soap for a reason and worth making for yourself. 

Good Luck and Get Soaping!!

 

  

 

 

Where do you purchase the molds that come apart like the one in your photo? Thank you in advance :) 

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On 1/8/2017 at 8:08 PM, Moonstar said:

So how did hubby end up thinking of his soap lol ! I think Chiefmom's pics look amazing ! Having no idea what pine-tar smells like, I'll have to take your word 

for it lol ! I really think Im gonna try this in the Spring or summer. After curing how would you describe the natural scent it has ? 

He actually likes it, and I do too!  Next time though I will not add any other scent to it. I will just let the pine tar be pine tar. It has mellowed and it's actually

a great bar!

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