Garf Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I have gone to making candles in glass for my own use but I have had severe problems with wicks choking with mushrooming or having sooting problems from too high a flame. I use Parafin wax, either 1343A or 4625, or a mix of the 2. I have tried wire core wick and HTP wick in various sizes. My best results were with the smaller wire core wicks with the wires removed, but that gives me trouble when the wax cools and contracts. I even tried paper core wick which was a total disaster. I need help. Phil Brown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OldGlory Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Both of those waxes are designed for making pillar candles, not container candles. I would suggest either making pillars with those waxes or using a wax designed for making container candles in your jars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I agree with OG. Try using that wax in a pillar and getting some container wax to use in a container. For my pillar wax in my pillars I use flat braid cotton wicking. Works perfect for my applications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flicker Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 I've actually used 1343 for years in jars. What container are you using and what is the exact diameter of it where it is widest from side to side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 Most of my containers range between 2" to 2.5". I have a few that are larger. I may have made a mistake on the 4625 because one of the two waxes I use is dead soft and can be molded by hand. I need to check on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 I found the order. It's 4630A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OldGlory Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 4630 is a container wax with a fairly high FO load tolerance. Have you tried that wax alone? It is designed for containers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 I use no FO. I have tried 4630 alone and still get mushrooms. Someone recommended a cotton based wick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfroberts Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) 4630 should be darn near perfect with HTPs. I use that wax with HTPs and have very little trouble with mushrooming. What size HTP have you tested? I would think a 52 would be spot on. Are you using dye? Edited November 30, 2015 by bfroberts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OldGlory Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 I'd like to suggest soy wax if you add no dye. I make candles for myself without FO in 464 and use wood wicks from Bittercreek North. I just love them! (464 soy wax costs less than paraffins, not to mention that they soot very little.) My poor nose is overwhelmed with fragrances and there's very little I can smell any more, so a candle without fragrance is even better for me. I can help you narrow down the wicking if you are willing to try Premier wicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flicker Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Give me specific jar diameter (where they are widest, not generally the opening unless they are straight up and down) for each and I can make recommendations based both on 4630 and 1343. Keep in mind some mushrooming is normal and will never be eliminated entirely though, just a byproduct of anything that burns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 (edited) The glasses are slightly tapered from bottom to top measuring 2" to 2.5" at their widest point at the top. I have tried HTP from an assortment that range from 31 to 1312. I have tried unprimed wire core wick from a large spool with the wire removed. They work fairly well. Label is missing but it came from Michaels. Edited December 3, 2015 by Garf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 I tried wicks removed from Candlelite tealights. They burn perfectly but are too short to do any good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Has anyone ever tried RRD wicks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 I ordered some RRD wicks and tried them. No good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chefmom Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Candlemaking is fun, the basic process is pretty easy to master. However...getting the wicking right. lololol that might put you in a nut house!! Your best bet is to gather up the test pack sample size of various wicks and try a few different kinds at a time. It is easier to do in mass when they are unscented...just mark the jars (and the wicks) well. Your size jar sounds like it's just a touch bigger than a votive jar, so smaller wicks are going to be the ones to test first. Also, be sure you are testing in areas without drafts. I have tested two jars with the SAME LX wick in them and have one mushroom and one burn fine. I discovered that I had my jars too close together and the draft caused by the flame burning actually messed up the other candle. It was a mistake that I had two of the same wick, but fortunately I caught that because I mark all of my wicks individually. But I noted it because I thought it was weird. You noted that the purchased tealight wick worked well. It's possible that it was a TL wick, they work very well in tea lights and votives. Finding them in sizes larger than tea light size is tough....without buying masses of custom wicks anyway... Don't forget about the old school wicks!! Flat braid and square braid can usually be bought plain untabbed and unprimed in small amounts, and that makes small testing easy and affordable. Flat braid 15 and square braid 3/0 and 2/0 burn well in small jars. I don't think I've ever had a flat braid mushroom, I usually use them for pillar candles, but have tried them in votives off and on. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 I don't use your wax or jars but everytime I switched waxes I would make testers in 3 of the same jars with 3 different wicks to narrow down what type worked best overall- I would then make 3 more with wick of choice in 3 different sizes - after picking the best size I would donut again and power burn the jars Time consuming yes but it helps narrow down your wick type and then with every new scent I would test which size of that wick - I am down to 3 sizes in 2 different wick types for most all of my applications - all oils are not equal and burn different but if your not using FO it should be much easier but if you ever do add FO keep in mind they all need to be tested 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted November 23, 2016 Author Share Posted November 23, 2016 I have ordered more wax and some LX 12 wicks to try. I'll have to see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Try this ... trim your wick at 1/4" to start. That may solve the problem, as it seems to me that your wick is very long. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 On 11/23/2016 at 7:56 PM, birdcharm said: Try this ... trim your wick at 1/4" to start. That may solve the problem, as it seems to me that your wick is very long. This, holy crap this. Your wicks are about 4x too long mate lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 The pics shown are after an overnight burn. They started out very short and were exposed after about 8 hours of burning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 I am beginning to think that the problems I am having are due to my burning methodology rather than my wick choice. I am going to detail my setup. I will start with an overall pic of my setup then I will detail everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 The base is heavy glass and has a taper holder on the top side and is plain in the center on the bottom. The glass has spacers made from pieces of auto vacuum hose to allow airflow at the base. The container has a spacer under it made from an inverted tuna can to insulate the container from the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 (edited) Here are closeup pics of the spacers on the glass. They are starting to get a little frayed and will need to be replaced soon. I have some better tubing to use next time. One pic is the glass inverted , the other upright with the camera almost even with the counter. Edited November 25, 2016 by Garf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garf Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 As I have said, the wick is started short and as the burn progresses, it doesn't seem to burn off then mushrooms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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