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6% FO versus 8% FO


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Those melt pools are too deep much too quickly. By the time that reaches the bottom you will have some scorching hot glass.

Do you have any photos to post so we can help you figure out what is going on?

 

I don't have any photos but you are right and I did lower the wick size and they seem MUCH better!!! Melt pools are are still making it to the sides within the hour but not that deep. I've been burning them all the way to the bottom as well so I know how they do as a whole. I have learned that stopping after the first couple of burns is a humongous NO NO because from that point on the candle could die or torch up.

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Guest OldGlory

I don't have any photos but you are right and I did lower the wick size and they seem MUCH better!!! Melt pools are are still making it to the sides within the hour but not that deep. I've been burning them all the way to the bottom as well so I know how they do as a whole. I have learned that stopping after the first couple of burns is a humongous NO NO because from that point on the candle could die or torch up.

I don't even know what to say. A melt pool that reaches the sides in an hour in a jar that is 5 inches tall will not be safe at the bottom.

What you choose to do with the advice you have been given is certainly your choice. Good luck to you.

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I don't even know what to say. A melt pool that reaches the sides in an hour in a jar that is 5 inches tall will not be safe at the bottom.

What you choose to do with the advice you have been given is certainly your choice. Good luck to you.

I am new to candle making as well and I been testing for the past 4 months, I think I may finally found the right wick but, I get a full melt pool with in a hour. I am testing on jelly jars 8 And 12 oz with a 2-3/8 Inch diameter. For the test batch I use CD10, CD8, CD6 and CD5 and make 2 jars for each wick. So far, CD5 burn the best of all; jars not too hot, wick doesn't mushroom as much, and hot throw is good. I'm using Eco soya cb advanced with no dye or additives, but I am going to try testing with EL 100% soy Container wax. Any tips on what kinds of wicks might work better with ecosoya cb advanced or EL container wax? I love making candle and I really want this to work out, any suggestions are greatly appreciated thanks in advanced.

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I think yasmine you are talking apples to oranges.  For straight soy a full melt pool in an hour is not bad the problem would be in your melt pool was the 1/2 deep in hour that would be a problem. Soy and paraffin burn two different ways. Soy burn down and paraffin burns out. Soy you are looking at how deep your melt pool is not how wide.  

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Think of your candle as a pillar in a jar. You have hang up or a protective barrier of wax for about 1/2the burn and then on the remainder of the burn the hang up melts and keeps the bottom burn from getting too hot. Customers often want a candle to burn totally clean from top to bottom and sometimes complain there was a half-inch of wax left in the bottom. I explain the safety mechanism of the wick and why its good to have that protective wax in the bottom and they are ok with a little left over. I know there are chandlers who deliver a squeaky clean burn from top to bottom without the jar over heating but you need to understand that the average consumer lights a candle and forgets it until the end of the day. I don't give a rip how you have it wicked; that jar is going to get over heated and better be on some kind of protective insulated plate to prevent a fire. A thin shell of hang up (not tunneling) is not going to reduce how well your candle fragrances a given area. It may not be pretty but its safe.

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 I don't give a rip how you have it wicked; that jar is going to get over heated and better be on some kind of protective insulated plate to prevent a fire. A thin shell of hang up (not tunneling) is not going to reduce how well your candle fragrances a given area. It may not be pretty but its safe.

Are you saying all jar candles need to sit on something???  Am I understanding correctly?

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I think yasmine you are talking apples to oranges.  For straight soy a full melt pool in an hour is not bad the problem would be in your melt pool was the 1/2 deep in hour that would be a problem. Soy and paraffin burn two different ways. Soy burn down and paraffin burns out. Soy you are looking at how deep your melt pool is not how wide.  

Yes, I think I got a little mixed up let me put my thoughts together... Ok, I been doing a lot of research and I came across this article that stated "for every inch in diameter that a candle measures, it should take about 1 hour to burn”.  basically, what Im understanding from this quote is that, the jelly jars   I was using for testing with a 2” diameter should reach a full melt pool by  2 hours of burning. Since, I was getting a full melt- pool within an hour, I felt that my candles weren’t burning properly; even though  I had good HT, little to no mushrooming, and jar was not excessively hot. I want to mark this test as a success, but Im second guessing myself, maybe someone with more knowledge can help me cleared up all this confusion.

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I am new to candle making as well and I been testing for the past 4 months, I think I may finally found the right wick but, I get a full melt pool with in a hour. I am testing on jelly jars 8 And 12 oz with a 2-3/8 Inch diameter. For the test batch I use CD10, CD8, CD6 and CD5 and make 2 jars for each wick. So far, CD5 burn the best of all; jars not too hot, wick doesn't mushroom as much, and hot throw is good. I'm using Eco soya cb advanced with no dye or additives, but I am going to try testing with EL 100% soy Container wax. Any tips on what kinds of wicks might work better with ecosoya cb advanced or EL container wax? I love making candle and I really want this to work out, any suggestions are greatly appreciated thanks in advanced.

Hello Yasmin,

 

Are you double wicking these jelly jars with 2 cd5's?

 

I was wondering what your findings were being that you are trying out a new wax (the EL).  Are you not happy with the cb advanced?

 

Trappeur

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Yes, I think I got a little mixed up let me put my thoughts together... Ok, I been doing a lot of research and I came across this article that stated "for every inch in diameter that a candle measures, it should take about 1 hour to burn”.  basically, what Im understanding from this quote is that, the jelly jars   I was using for testing with a 2” diameter should reach a full melt pool by  2 hours of burning. Since, I was getting a full melt- pool within an hour, I felt that my candles weren’t burning properly; even though  I had good HT, little to no mushrooming, and jar was not excessively hot. I want to mark this test as a success, but Im second guessing myself, maybe someone with more knowledge can help me cleared up all this confusion.

That is some very "general" advice. Some interpret it as never burn a candle more than 1 hour per inch of diameter (safety warning). Who sets a timer to keep track tough?

The guideline/rule of thumb does not take into account the type of wax or jar configuration. Many people do not wick for full melt pool during the first burn based on the inch per hour because by the time the wax burns to the middle of the container things will heat up more rapidly, meaning the candle will burn far too hot. By the bottom hotter still based on how convection changes the further down you get.

To call your candle a success, you must burn it the entire way through, to the bitter end. You will end up making and burning more than one sample once you dial in the best wick combo, and observe them under different burning conditions. Your first tester can use the the inch per hour guideline to get a feel for how it behaves. Once you are pleased with the whole burn, extend burning times and even power burn future samples to ensure they stay within safe ranges for the average candle burner.

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Yes! Candles in my house sit on ceramic tiles and are never placed near flammable materials. Don't you read the warning label on your candles? I once bought a candle made like a piece of pie in a ceramic looking holder. It turned out the holder was not ceramic but carboard made to look like a plate. My wife came home to a house full of black smoke, the fire alarm blaring and me on the computer in a back room, oblivious to all of it. I was angry with mfg of the candle for not warning me about the holder and angry with myself for not respecting an open flame in my home. HTH

Steve

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Hello Yasmin,

 

Are you double wicking these jelly jars with 2 cd5's?

 

I was wondering what your findings were being that you are trying out a new wax (the EL).  Are you not happy with the cb advanced?

 

Trappeur

Hi,

 

No, I am not double wicking these jars I'm testing the same wick (cd5's) on two different jars. I do like the cb advanced but it can be picky with some FOs. I would like to mix the cb advanced and the (El) together but I haven't been able to do that yet.

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The CB Advanced was designed for its appearance; creamy opaque candles with little to no frosting. Unfortunately the wax formulation does nothing for hot throw. I found precious few FOs that threw well in it. I finally gave up and chose another wax and was so happy I did. CB Advanced makes a beautiful unscented candle and thats about it.

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