Room Temp Soaping

[7 Pawz]

  Is there anyone using the room temp soapmaking method?   If you do, what do you like about it ?       If you've tried it and don't like it, what is it you don't like about it ? 

 

Sometime back i read a posting about soapmaking at room temps, did a little more research and decided to try it.  As I am a beginner, meaning I just do the basics, nothing advanced like swirling(someday , this method of soapmaking intrigued me.    I am using Olive oil, coconut oil and veg shortening.    I've good results so far out of about 6 batches made.  I don't dye my soap and so far the fo haven't created any problems.

 

 

[Guest OldGlory]

I make RTCP. i like it because there's no need to measure the temperature of the ingredients - one less step I suppose.

There are some who use the heat of the lye water to melt the solid fats but I don't know the ins and outs of that process. That's something I'd like to try one day.

[Jcandleattic]

I love it!! Main reason is I masterbatch both my oils and my lye, so they are already at RT when I weigh them out. 

For me, it's less time consuming. Measure, mix, pour - done. Walk away and wait to unmold...

 

No time spent in waiting for the lye to cool down, no extra time taken melting my hard oils - which stay slushy to liquid in my MB. 

I have also noticed that slightly finicky FO's behave much better in RT oils (I add my FO to my oils before adding my lye) they dont' accelerate as much, or misbehave as often. 

I will rarely soap above RT and when I do it's only if I'm making HP, and/or making a batch of soap at the same time I'm making my masterbatches. 

[Jcandleattic]

I make RTCP. i like it because there's no need to measure the temperature of the ingredients - one less step I suppose.

There are some who use the heat of the lye water to melt the solid fats but I don't know the ins and outs of that process. That's something I'd like to try one day.

I tried that method once - using hot lye to melt my oils. For me - it did not work!! The lye was not hot enough, or my oils were too hard (I use PKO) or something and I had solid clumps of oils that I really had to work on getting melted - ended up rebatching that one in the end because it became such a disaster. 

I've never tried that method since. LOL 

 

Also, I stopped taking temps of my lye and oils after my very first batch 11 years ago even when I soaped with my oils and lye just melted and mixed. As long as I could touch my SS bowls and they seemed to be close to each other by feel, I soaped.  

Never had a temperature related problem in all the years, so I guess it's okay.  

[TallTayl]

I am a heat of the lye person. I add the hot lye solution to the oils in the pot with the highest MP first (cocoa butter) then add the next oil as the prior one melts. Liquid oils go last so I can heat them or not as needed.

 

When making a lot of different batches, I'll often pre-melt all the cocoa butter and shea to save a little time. I can crank out a dozen or so different batches in a couple of hours start to finish.

 

Did not like RT oils and lye solution at all. I need "some" heat in the process to keep the raw soap fluid enough to fully incorporate fragrance and color. I ended up with lye pockets, fragrance pockets and uneven color because I ended up having to work so fast with the cold mixture.

[Candybee]

I also CP at room temp (RTCP).  I quit using a thermometer last year. It just makes it easier to work with certain recipes or fragrances that trace fast.

 

I also sometimes use the Thermal Transfer CP method. Thats where you rely on your lye solution to melt your solid oils in your lye water. I use it for my lard soaps and bastile soaps. It works for me because I don't use recipes that have a lot of hard oils. My bastile has only coconut oil as my hard oil, and my lard soap has only coconut oil and lard as my hard oils. The rest are liquid oils. Personally, I think its one of the easiest methods to learn and to use and works great with some recipes. Plus I use less equipment so less to wash.

 

I think you end up using a particular soaping method for the soap you are making. For example, as I mentioned I used the TTCP for my old fashioned lard soap. For my shave soaps and some difficult fragrances I CPHP. Salt bars I have been using CPOP.

[Jcandleattic]

I am a heat of the lye person. I add the hot lye solution to the oils in the pot with the highest MP first (cocoa butter) then add the next oil as the prior one melts. Liquid oils go last so I can heat them or not as needed.

 

When making a lot of different batches, I'll often pre-melt all the cocoa butter and shea to save a little time. I can crank out a dozen or so different batches in a couple of hours start to finish.

 

Did not like RT oils and lye solution at all. I need "some" heat in the process to keep the raw soap fluid enough to fully incorporate fragrance and color. I ended up with lye pockets, fragrance pockets and uneven color because I ended up having to work so fast with the cold mixture.

Isn't funny how everyone has different results using the same methods? 

When I RT my results are about opposite of yours.  My raw soap is fluid all the way to pour. In fact several times I have to go do something else for a few minutes to have it thicken up, or stick blend until my blender is hot to get it thicker.

Of course it could be the different recipes too. PKO is my hardest oil, next is my coconut and the rest are all liquid oils. Even if the PKO and CO are used in high %'s. 

[Guest OldGlory]

How I envy the speed of your soaping Tall! It takes me a few hours to do one batch. I am UBER cautious. Maybe that's why I don't soap often.

I have the smoothest process with RTCP, like Jcandle. I learned early on that as long as your fats and liquids are mixed well (emulsified?) you can pour it into your mold. Trace isn't always needed.

I avoid florals because of the ricing tendencies, but have stick blended a batch that riced until it was smooth again.

One day I am going to learn more about soapmaking. I would really like to try the crock pot method.

[TallTayl]

I KNOW JC!

 

My formula is only 22% liquid, high in stearic to boot. With a little heat I defy most "rules" of soaping. I can even manage delicate swirls in florals and spices (most days, lol).

 

When too cool I have to really add heat while the soap is in the mold or it won't SAP all the way to the ends. I don't gel, so the cool in the pot  temps really help.

 

Oh man OldGlory... I'd be in trouble if each batch took that long

[Jcandleattic]

TallTayl, my main recipe is 60% hard oils (a combo of PKO/Coconut) and the rest is 40% liquid oils. I remember reading about the Thermal Transfer method from you on the old board and even saved the thread, but have since deleted my email. I'm sure if I looked I could find it posted here somewhere!  

 

OldGlory, I don't batch in bulk, but like TallTayl, it would drive me nuts if a batch took that long to make. LOL If I had the creative fortitude or the reason for it, I could crank out about 15 batches of soap a day. (I only know this is because it's been done before!) however, as it is, I only do about 3 a day and only on the weekends.  

Of course, I don't' sell in stores or anything - just on my website, at fairs, markets and the like. 

[7 Pawz]

Thanks everyone for your replies Its interesting to see what works or not works at RTCP.   I have measured all the oils and poured lye onto the hard oils to melt and found that trace was very quick and I tried just letting everything set overnight and just barely melting the hard oils before I add the lye mixture and prefer the second of the two.  I've had great results out of both tho.        I dont soap in big batches not over 5lbs at the most, but like playing with 1 lb batches just to experiment and find what I like.   Old Glory, I  understand the caution you take tho but I'd be impatient if my batch took several hours, I guess thats the other reason I like RTCP so much.

[7 Pawz]

How I envy the speed of your soaping Tall! It takes me a few hours to do one batch. I am UBER cautious. Maybe that's why I don't soap often.

I have the smoothest process with RTCP, like Jcandle. I learned early on that as long as your fats and liquids are mixed well (emulsified?) you can pour it into your mold. Trace isn't always needed.

I avoid florals because of the ricing tendencies, but have stick blended a batch that riced until it was smooth again.

One day I am going to learn more about soapmaking. I would really like to try the crock pot method.

I have the smoothest process with RTCP, like Jcandle. I learned early on that as long as your fats and liquids are mixed well (emulsified?) you can pour it into your mold. Trace isn't always needed.

So far, its worked this way for me to OLDGLORY  

[7 Pawz]

Isn't funny how everyone has different results using the same methods? 

When I RT my results are about opposite of yours.  My raw soap is fluid all the way to pour. In fact several times I have to go do something else for a few minutes to have it thicken up, or stick blend until my blender is hot to get it thicker.

Of course it could be the different recipes too. PKO is my hardest oil, next is my coconut and the rest are all liquid oils. Even if the PKO and CO are used in high %'s. 

I tried weighing  all of the oils , hard oils included, in one container and added the lye water immediately after it was clear to melt the hard oil down, and it started tracing before I could stir but I blended it all together, which seemed like seconds and poured into the mold anyway, soap hardened and released with no problems, all seemed to well with it.

[7 Pawz]

I also CP at room temp (RTCP).  I quit using a thermometer last year. It just makes it easier to work with certain recipes or fragrances that trace fast.

 

I also sometimes use the Thermal Transfer CP method. Thats where you rely on your lye solution to melt your solid oils in your lye water. I use it for my lard soaps and bastile soaps. It works for me because I don't use recipes that have a lot of hard oils. My bastile has only coconut oil as my hard oil, and my lard soap has only coconut oil and lard as my hard oils. The rest are liquid oils. Personally, I think its one of the easiest methods to learn and to use and works great with some recipes. Plus I use less equipment so less to wash.

 

I think you end up using a particular soaping method for the soap you are making. For example, as I mentioned I used the TTCP for my old fashioned lard soap. For my shave soaps and some difficult fragrances I CPHP. Salt bars I have been using CPOP.

The Thermal Transfer was probably what I've been attempting to do to, not intentially at first but it worked, and I did use this method for a recipe with Lard as well.  it started tracing for me before I started stiring, which was a little shock till I recognized what I was looking at  I've tried it only once, I usually let all oils and lye water sit overnight.  But maybe because I live in the south, that could have something to do with my temps?

Edited August 7, 2014 by 7 Pawz

[Candybee]

It might have been a false trace. My lard recipe has olive oil, lard, coconut oil, and castor. I put the coconut and lard in first or whichever is hardest at the time of soaping. Let the first one melt then add in the next solid oil.  By the time the solid fats have melted my soap batter is already similar to a medium thick pudding. I never worry about it cause it will stay the way a long time.

Once all the oils are in I SB until its emulsified and I can see it has reached true trace. The true trace looks different to me than the false.

[7 Pawz]

It might have been a false trace. My lard recipe has olive oil, lard, coconut oil, and castor. I put the coconut and lard in first or whichever is hardest at the time of soaping. Let the first one melt then add in the next solid oil.  By the time the solid fats have melted my soap batter is already similar to a medium thick pudding. I never worry about it cause it will stay the way a long time.

Once all the oils are in I SB until its emulsified and I can see it has reached true trace. The true trace looks different to me than the false.

Maybe so, I poured into the silicone molds and unmolded with no problem.  But, the soap turned a light yellow, I wonder if it was the molds or the lard?  The lard may have been a little old, but it soaped just fine and bars are curing now.

[Candybee]

Lard doesn't normally make soap turn yellow. So I couldn't say what did. Could be anything from one or more of your oils or the mold, lye. I am sure you will figure it out.

 

BTW-- For the Thermal Transfer method I don't add my lye solution to my solid fats. I add my solid fats to my lye solution and I add them in one at a time. The hardest fat first. Then I add the liquid oils, fragrance, color, etc. and SB to emulsify.

[7 Pawz]

Lard doesn't normally make soap turn yellow. So I couldn't say what did. Could be anything from one or more of your oils or the mold, lye. I am sure you will figure it out.

 

BTW-- For the Thermal Transfer method I don't add my lye solution to my solid fats. I add my solid fats to my lye solution and I add them in one at a time. The hardest fat first. Then I add the liquid oils, fragrance, color, etc. and SB to emulsify.

Do you think the mold had something to do with the soap turning yellow? It was a red wilton cake pan.  Oh, and I will try your way doing the thermal transfer, thank you

[Candybee]

Its possible. I have heard of red silicone molds turning soap reddish. Did you wash the mold out with warm soapy water before you started using it? I have a red silicone mold from ED and it came with instructions to wash out first before using. I washed mine and never had any soap discolor. I don't use it in the oven for CPOP just regular CP.

 

Did you use any other additives? Colorants? Fragrance? Did you use extra virgin olive oil? Have you used this mold before?

Edited August 13, 2014 by Candybee

[7 Pawz]

Its possible. I have heard of red silicone molds turning soap reddish. Did you wash the mold out with warm soapy water before you started using it? I have a red silicone mold from ED and it came with instructions to wash out first before using. I washed mine and never had any soap discolor. I don't use it in the oven for CPOP just regular CP.

 

Did you use any other additives? Colorants? Fragrance? Did you use extra virgin olive oil? Have you used this mold before?

Didn't use anything other than fo, maybe that was part of the problem, it might have had a yellowish tint, didn't think about that till now, and I rinsed out the mold and dried it but didn't wash in soapy water, maybe I should've tho.    Like you, my silicone molds are used only for soap making, but I did see one that I'd like to actually bake with

[Candybee]

I think the most likely culprit is your FO. This is why I try to only buy my FOs from suppliers that give detailed reviews on their FOs. The only way to be sure is use the same recipe without the FO.