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After I read many different ways to test burn the candles we have made. I still am trying to figure out the way to really do it. Some say do in increments of the 4 hours. The problem I have is that the wax I have (3022 - 70 soy 30 paraffin) is that it doesnt reach the sides of the glass on the first burn. When I go to candle websites, they seem to frequently say to burn the candle until you get a FMP. Should I be testing it that way, so that I let it burn until it is edge to edge, before doing subsequent burns?

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Actually it should be, correct me if I'm wrong, an hour for the diameter of the candle. You can start with a four hour burn if you want, judge what's still hanging up on the sides of your jar, but make sure you burn that jar candle down. There's a chance that the sides will catch up. There's a chance the sides won't. You won't know after only a four-hour burn (if you do, then you have a candle burning too quickly.) If the sides catch up, I'd go with the wick you have or test something similar in size to it if you aren't thrilled with the performance. If the sides don't catch up or the candle drowns etc. then I''d be looking for the next wick size up. Not all jars are created equal. 

Understand though that a full melt pool is said to release the optimum throw. 

Hope that helped you some. 

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The glass I use is Libbey 917cd. 3 1/4" across. I let them go about 4 hours. I have been using CD and CDN wicks with the most success, after trying zinc, lx, premier, rrd, Peak cotton core. I was wondering since this wax has more soy than paraffin, will it never burn straight out but go down? Maybe eventually catching up in the last 1/4 of the glass. I have a feeling that if I do get to start selling candles, will people be questioning whether it is a good candle or not since it achieves the edge to edge FMP after the last 1/4? The HT is real good.

Or should I try and let it burn UNTIL it has achieved and edge to edge FMP on the first burn, before blowing it out?

Thanks for your help?

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Most people don't know what a good candle is. They will, though, note if it doesn't have a throw, if it leaves a lot of wax at the end, but not until it gets to the end type of thing. You, on the other hand, know what happens with your candles and you have to be the one who is happiest with your product (that before you sell, it meets your standards.) After buying a candle, people don't usually go home and follow directions precisely. You can tell them all you want. They can read your instructions, but truth is they won't follow them to a T. So your candle should perform to your requirements and be able to survive the way people are going to burn ... sometimes it might be six or seven hours or more. Others it might be two or three. 

A candle will last as typically long as the wick does. If it's wicked correctly, you ought to be left with a film or very little to no wax left in the jar. 

 

What happens if you go up a wick size? Does it burn too hot?

 

Have you looked into the HTP series or the eco since it's mostly soy? 

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I didn't like eco because they burn ugly and stumpy. How many Yankme candles have you burned that achieved a full melt pool and didn't tunnel or drown out? But still you keep digging at the wax and trying to get it to behave and then go out and buy another one. This wax has hang up on the majority of fos I have tested. There are a few that seem to burn more efficiently but repeat customers aren't interested in the appearance of the candle, they want it to stink up the whole house for a long time. You have great ht when other people are moaning they can't get a candle to throw hot or cold. Pretend you are a customer and light the candle and go about your business. Forget it. When the candle starts to fragrance your area, go look at it and judge for yourself.Votivo is one of the best and most expensive candles on the market and it doesn't get a full melt pool but it sure will stink up your house and the entire block. Maybe you should consider melts.

Steve

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Flicker does the following mean the flame height can be up to 3inches? I know I wouldn't want a candle burning with that large of a flame, but are they saying it's ok?

 

: •Maximum Flame height requirement
 

– UP TO 3 INCHES (MOST CANDLES)
– UP TO 3.75 INCHES (CERTAIN RELIGIOUS CANDLES)
– Candles intended to be burned outside are exempt
 
I have been unable to achieve a full MP or even very close on any candle, that doesn't get too hot later on in the final burns. I'm still testing after a very long time & getting sick of not having a candle  to sell.  Am I worrying too much that a person won't trim the wick correctly & have a large flame to start? I can use a larger wick & they work very good if trimmed correctly. Great HT too. Smaller wicks don't achieve a full MP until the bottom inch of a 3 or 4"
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I trim my wicks pretty low when selling. Some customers make it a point to tell me that they trim their wicks but probably most don't care. Tall flames make me nervous. Most of the hang up with a cd or cdn wick is due to their leaning or bending over in one direction (some people twist their wicks to turn as they burn) and the only way to counteract an uneven burn is to double wick the jar. I notice that most companies are double wicking to ensure an even burn=full melt pool. I hate double wicking anything but it makes sense if you have issues with a messy jar until the final burn. Hang up and tunneling are two different issues and my candles don't tunnel but they do keep a fair amount of hang up until the final burn. HTH

Steve

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Thanks for the info. No, not tunneling, just maybe 1/4 an inch of hangup until the very end.

I trim my wicks pretty low when selling. Some customers make it a point to tell me that they trim their wicks but probably most don't care. Tall flames make me nervous. Most of the hang up with a cd or cdn wick is due to their leaning or bending over in one direction (some people twist their wicks to turn as they burn) and the only way to counteract an uneven burn is to double wick the jar. I notice that most companies are double wicking to ensure an even burn=full melt pool. I hate double wicking anything but it makes sense if you have issues with a messy jar until the final burn. Hang up and tunneling are two different issues and my candles don't tunnel but they do keep a fair amount of hang up until the final burn. HTH

Steve

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Hi AZsunset, since you are using a blend you may find the Htp wicks may be a better fit. HTP wicks burn hot which is needed for soy waxes. I'm testing candles as I type but it's IGI6006. I'm testing a htp and a eco wick in a 8oz jelly jar.

Edited by Vernie1
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Flicker does the following mean the flame height can be up to 3inches? I know I wouldn't want a candle burning with that large of a flame, but are they saying it's ok?

 

: •Maximum Flame height requirement

 

– UP TO 3 INCHES (MOST CANDLES)
– UP TO 3.75 INCHES (CERTAIN RELIGIOUS CANDLES)
– Candles intended to be burned outside are exempt
 
I have been unable to achieve a full MP or even very close on any candle, that doesn't get too hot later on in the final burns. I'm still testing after a very long time & getting sick of not having a candle  to sell.  Am I worrying too much that a person won't trim the wick correctly & have a large flame to start? I can use a larger wick & they work very good if trimmed correctly. Great HT too. Smaller wicks don't achieve a full MP until the bottom inch of a 3 or 4"

 

Those are based on ASTM safety standards.

Do "I" feel that is acceptable in 4 hours? Absolutley not! LOL I am comfy with about an inch and a half MAX at that point. Even that to me is out of control a bit.

What wax are you using and what jar? Maybe I can help you find a wick that works better for you.

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Ok, that's good to know. I've stopped testing wicks that were working very well because of what I thought was too tall of a flame after 3 or 4 hours. What about soot on the glass after that length of time.

I'm using a 50/50 mix of 4786 & 4627. Right now in either a 12oz status or a 12oz madison, each about 3" wide by maybe 3,5" tall.

51z works pretty good, alright HT, no the best but ok. Full MP doesn't happen until maybe less then an inch left of the wax. 60z does the same thing, a little better HT. I have a 62z in at this point, with 2" left of the wax. Just started so don't know about HT.

Thanks for any & all help.

Edited by ChandlerWicks
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After I read many different ways to test burn the candles we have made. I still am trying to figure out the way to really do it. Some say do in increments of the 4 hours. The problem I have is that the wax I have (3022 - 70 soy 30 paraffin) is that it doesnt reach the sides of the glass on the first burn. When I go to candle websites, they seem to frequently say to burn the candle until you get a FMP. Should I be testing it that way, so that I let it burn until it is edge to edge, before doing subsequent burns?

I hi-jacked your post! Sorry! I hope anything I'm asking is helping you, also.

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