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  1. Hi everyone! I have just recently started my adventure into making soy candles. I have been reading this forum now for a few months and I feel like I have learned a lot! I have a question about using wooden wicks with 464 wax. I'm currently testing candles in a 3.4 inch wide tin and am a little confused as to which size wick I should go with. I have been aiming for there to be some wax hangup on my first few burns, looking for the wax to be cleaned up when I burn further down the container. I want my melt pool depth to be closer to 1/4" but i haven't been able to get any less than 1/2" deep melt pools at the 3 - 3.5 hour mark no matter which wick size I use. So far I have tested crackling booster wicks in the .02 .625", .03 .625", and .04 .625" sizes. I have also tested single ply crackling wicks in the .04 .625" and .03 .625" size. I should also add that when I tested a wick the next size down that wasn't as wide (.5") the candle tunneled. When I tried single ply crackling wicks the candles tunneled. The Wooden Wick Co suggests that soy candles should use .04 crackling booster wicks. .03 crackling booster wicks are meant to be used with beeswax or natural wax blends with palm, coconut, or soy oils. I have basically given up on achieving less than a 1/2" deep melt pool at the 3 hour mark. Now I am questioning which thickness wick will give me a better hot throw. With the .04 crackling booster wicks I achieve very very close to a full melt pool in 3 hours of my first burn. With a .03 crackling booster there is 3/8" hang up of wax on one side of the container and 1/4" on the other side. Since soy wax needs hotter burning wicks, am I wrong to use a .03 crackling booster wick? Would that cause it to not achieve optimal scent throw? When I tested the .04 wick I thought the scent throw was stronger but I am worried about achieving a full melt pool on the first burn and whether or not I am just burning off the fragrance too quickly. Can anyone give me any insight into which wick they think would work better? Any help is greatly appreciated! I will also update tomorrow as to whether the wax hangup cleans up on the .03 crackling booster candle after a few more burns. First photo is of the .04 crackling booster wick after the initial burn. Second photo is of the .03 crackling booster wick after the initial burn.
  2. Has anyone ever used Muddy Soap CO FO's ? If so, how are they & which ones have you tried ?
  3. Hi, I have been doing a lot of wick testing for my candles, mostly using CD wicks and Eco wicks. I have poured over what seems like endless recommendations for choosing the right wick. From what I gather, it seems like a lot of you that use 464 soy wax are using the CD wicks over the ECO. But, several sites recommend the ECO wicks for 464. Can a seasoned chandler explain to me the reasons you prefer the CD over the ECO (or vice versa)? I notice the cd wick tends to mushroom slightly more than the ECO. Yet, I feel like I am getting a stronger hot throw with the CD wick, but a more even melt pool and calmer wick with the ECO. I am sure it is all just personal preference, but I would like to know what you all think. I am driving myself nuts! Thanks so much in advance!
  4. Hi everyone, this is my first post but I've been learning a ton on here so far! I am new to making candles in the past few months. I started with just 464 in 8oz straight sided jelly jars but I could not get a hot throw at all. I cured my candles for 2 weeks and used ECO wicks. I have switched over to a 50/50 blend of 464 and IGI 4630 and that has been a lot better with the hot throw, but now I'm having trouble with finding the right wick. Candlescience recommended an ECO 2 but that seemed too small. I have tried ECO 4, 6, and now 8. They all seem to leave some wax on one side. The 8 also has a pretty big flame. Any suggestions for the best wicks for this wax blend in 8oz and 4oz jelly jars? Also how long do you usually cure parasoy? I've been doing 48 hours minimum but wondering if I need to do longer. Thanks so much for any advice!!
  5. I recently switched from GB 464 to IGI 4630. I LOVE this wax, however I'm having a terrible time finding the right wick. I did a test burn of 6 different wicks yesterday (single wicks tested- Lx 21, Lx 22, Lx24, Lx26. Double wicks tested- Lx 12 and Lx 14) and out of those 6 only 2 came even remotely close to checking off all my boxes. Both of the double wick candles did pretty good. There was a little mushrooming and a small amout of soot coming off the wick for the first minute or two it was lit, but it had a great melt pool and the flame wasnt dancing around. I went to bed satisfied yesterday. Today I relit the LX 14, double wicked candle and it seems to be burning differently, almost like it's trying to put its self out. Is their anyone who can help me? I'm open to any and all advice.
  6. Hello all!! Newbie here who came across this forum doing research. I recently decided to pick up a new hobby of candle making . I ordered a sample kit just to be sure if it’s what I want to do and to get familiar with the wax. I am about to order more wax and wicks, I will be using 8oz tins. I think I want to use ECO wicks, and wanted to know what size I should get. Acroding to Candle Science I should use ECO 10. From doing research on here I should test up a size and down a size of the recommended size. I also know that the FO also plays a part as well. I guess my question is are ECO wicks good for tins? If so what sizes normally works the best. Thanks in advance
  7. I have tried so many wicks but not sure why the flame of my candle just blows out like in 15 mins and also I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong the kind of jar I’m using is a Square mason 8oz glass jar. I’m not sure what kind of wick should I buy from amazon 😓
  8. Hi everyone! I'm new here. I've been using 464 for a few months now, my HT is sometimes great, sometimes poor...same with my tops. Sometimes they are smooth, sometimes they look like I took a brillo pad to them. I wanted to try a different wax to see what happened, and I had heard a lot of people loved CB Advanced when it was out before, and that the only problem was hot throw. Well, I made a batch, and the appearance was absolutely perfect. I heated to 165F, added 9% FO, poured at 140F, and they are gorgeous. Perfectly smooth creamy tops and sides. No work needed. Love it! But.....the HT is almost non-existent. I let them cure about 3 days. I have not seen anything anywhere about them needing to cure for extended periods of time to improve HT. Does anyone have any advice? I have had some people say go up to 12% fragrance, but that just seems crazy...and expensive. Also, since I'm apparently a glutton for punishment, I went to Walmart and bought a candle to compare. It filled my whole house in less than an hour. I put one of my 464 wax tarts in my melter and it struggled to fill my living room before dying out a couple hours later. So disappointing and frustrating. I am so frustrated I am even at the point of considering switching to paraffin or a parasoy blend, but I am afraid that could hurt me when I start selling, since the market is all about soy. I know a lot of people struggle with all the same things with soy. I am just at my wit's end and could really use some expert opinions. Thanks in advance.
  9. Now that we've got our wicking figured out for 464 soy from 2016-2017, has anyone gotten newer Lots of 464 such as from the last few months of 2017 and had to wick up again? If I got this right from what Candlescience said, it was in the processing not the FDA requirements that caused those batches that caused us so much trouble. Would we now be getting wax that should be back to what it was before those F Lots we previously discussed here? Also, for those recently purchasing 464, what is the date on your carton? GoldieMN
  10. So, I started making wax. Not candles, tarts. Here's how I started. First experiment was 464 soy from NG with additive. All fragrance oils I've used so far for EVERYTHING Ive made is Natures Garden or Just Scent. Heated up the soy 464 to 185. added the FO ad 180 or 175 for most, or lower if the flashpoint was lower. 12% to everything since over read you want to add about 1.5 to 2 ounces per pound, which ends up being about 12 percent. I try melting it a week later after it cures. It takes about 8 ounces of it, placed in the 5 burners I have to even FAINTLY smell it. You have to stand directly over the warmers to smell it. So like everyone else, I researched. Then I found NG pillar of bliss. that like you all know has paraffin and the soy mixed. Heated the paraffin up to 185, and then also added the FO at 185. Heated up the paraffin to 185, and then let the temp drop to 175, before adding FO. I made a batch with 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12% FO. all heating up to 185 and adding FO at 175. THEN I made a batch with 50% of the 464 NG Soy with 50% of the NG Pillar of bliss. Once again, made 5 batches with 8,9,10,11, and 12 percent, heating to 185, and adding FO at 170. no good no good no good NO GOOD. Next wax, Just Scent Pillar of votive. Heated to 185 and added oils at 175. just made a 8% 10% and 12% currently curing, but I've been smelling the 3 and not having a good feeling. Final test. Back to the NG Pillar of Bliss by itself, but heating up to 195, and now adding the FO at 185 (like it says) I did the 6.25% (which is basically the 1 ounce to 1 pound ratio on a much smaller scale) and then 8% 10% and 12% currently curing, but not having the best feeling. heres been my melting process, that IDK is approved by the wax forum lords of this world, and may be my problem. If Ive been making a larger scale wax, I use a pouring pot, and let it sit in a pot of water on medium heat on the stove until it reaches temp. once it does I take it off the heat, and start letting it cool and add my FO once it reaches certain flash points, and pour after stirring for 2 minutes of adding the oil. no matter the temp. If its a smaller scale of wax (which it usually is) I put the wax in a glass measuring cup, and put it into the pot of hot water and baby sit it till it reaches temp, It usually climbs to 185 fairly quick ( about 5 min or less) but if I'm heating it up to 195 it usually takes over 10 minutes and sits around 190-193 forever before reaching 195, and i think that could be the downfalls of the paraffin experiment. If Im making the small quantities in the pouring pot, it reaches 195 real quick, but then as soon as i take it off the heat, the temp rapidly starts dropping, and by the time it starts reaching 185 i literally have a 2 second window to put in my fragrance, if i leave it off the heat the wax will literally drop from 195 to 150 in the matter of 45 seconds; its insane. I can't even stir it for my 2 to 3 minutes. I try to stir it with the pot halfway in the water for a couple minutes, and then turn around and pour it. even from the 5 second of removing from heat to pouring in molds, it already starts to harden around the top of the pouring pot, and I think that maybe that whole process is hopeless. Masters, veterans. Women. My female Lords of this. I am a 25 year old dude that wants to impress the lady, and potentially others with this simple, yet amazing creation that one calls wax tarts. Please, If you have read this much, I thank you. I virtually kiss your eye balls for reading my pain. But someone please end this pain. Please end my long internet forum readings. My crazy ass formulas and methods. My typical 25 year old male mind of overthinking something so simple. Give me the answer. give me the gold. give me your SECRET. If you dont want to post your secret formula on a website, thats cool. Could ya message it to me? could you give me something else to try that could give me some hope? some shining light at the end of the infinite dark tunnel? I Love you all.
  11. Any golden wax 464 soy users that can offer me any insight on which wick types to use? I'm using 9oz glass jars. Started with ECO wicks as recommended by Candle Science but have had no luck with them. Just tried RRD for the first time and they’re mushrooming horribly in all sizes tested. I’m so new to this, any suggestions would be SO appreciated!!! Please please please.
  12. Hello, I just made my first batch ever and am waiting for them to cure for a few days. I don't want to make 10 wrong turns and waste a bunch of money before I find the right path. I'm starting out with GW 464 because that sounded like a trusted one. (starting out with 4oz mini jars until I find the main scents I like, then will mainly use 16oz) I got my FO from candle science for little over $1/oz While they are curing I started doing more research and I'm curious if I should skip from soy to a blend IGI 6006 (I'm looking to get maximum hot throw) Thoughts? Also I'm curious if anyone can comment on a quality comparison of FO between candle science and bulk apothecary. CS seems pretty cheap but I just realized that BA is a 10 minute drive from me and would be really convenient to shop in store for new stuff. Bulk apothecary is about double the price per ounce but they also claim that "Our fragrance oil can be used at .3%" due to no dilution. My thought is that anyone can use .3% but will you really get a great hot throw? This batch that is curing, I used 10% FO (but I haven't tested yet) Anybody got any thoughts on this? Thanks!
  13. Hello! I'm new to this forum, but have been reading (very helpful) posts since I began candlemaking last year. A little bit of backstory: up until a few months ago, I'd been using a blend of 464 and CB Advanced with amazing results. My FO load was 12% (high, I know!), my scent throw was great and I never had frosting. Now that CBA is no more, I feel miserable, but I've been testing out new combinations. Right now, I'm working with a combo of 464 and Q210. I've got a handle on my 8oz jar sizes, but I'm having a lot of trouble with my 2oz tins. No matter what temperature I pour, I'm getting a weird 'oily swirl' on top of them and terrible, terrible frosting (immediately, as soon as they set). I figured it had to do with the FO, so I lowered it to 9%, but I'm STILL having trouble. Maybe it's the wax itself? I guess the oily swirl wouldn't be so bad if I could just get the tops to stop frosting. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get them to stop frosting and get rid of that mysterious swirl or 'oil leech'? Thanks SO much!
  14. Hello, I've been making candles for 5 years and lately, I've been noticing at an 'oil slick' effect on the top of my candles. Tops are really smooth and looks nice, but there is a swirly oil 'sheen' when light reflect off the surface as if there is a very thin layer of oil resting on the top. Any idea on how to fix this? Or is this the new normal? This seems to be the case with all the FOs I try (from several different companies as well as my own blends). Here is my process: Wax: GB 464, Heating to 190 degrees, adding 9.5% FO immediately, stirring for 3 minutes, pouring at 135 degrees.
  15. Hello! I am brand new to this forum and excited to contribute and join the community! With all the changes in soy this year, it's been difficult to continue to make quality melts. I am extremely disappointed in the new ecosoya Q230. I was hoping it would be the end of my struggle...but sadly, there are issues with well below average cold throw, it doesn't play nice with several FOs, mild vinegar scent in final product and it has difficulty releasing from molds (I don't use clamshells) with a greasy residue. I am curious, what are people finding works well for a soy melts for good throw and strong texture that doesn't crumble now that ecosoya PB is gone? I've tried GB Melt & Tart (416?), but find it's brittle and crumbly and breaks too easily for our melts although the CT and HT seems decent. I had been mixing soy with PB and had excellent result, but now I feel like I'm out of options and don't want to move to a parasoy. I am about to start experimenting with blending soy (either 464 or 444) with small percentages of stearic acid to see if any good result come of that. I'd love to hear from you all! Thank you!
  16. I'm having problems wicking a new batch of 464 in a couple of apple fragrances. Wicks that worked previously are too hot. Tried CD12 as well as wicking down with my Premiers. No hot throw. Stumped; then read a thread on double wicking 16 oz. tins. Has anyone double wicked a Mason or Ball pint jar with Premiers? Regular mouth so 2 1/2" opening. Just have no idea where to start or if two wicks would not work in this container. By the way, the new boxes of 464 have worked out for three of my fragrances with no changes in wicks. Thought I had this licked. Goldie
  17. I am needing some serious help with wicking. Using 464 wax, 6% FO, and and an 8 oz tin with a diameter of 3,' ECO wick 12. Here's a photo of one after a 4 hour test burn. Another (no photo here) had multiple layers of tunneling after 3 separate 3 hour test burns. Suggestions? Am I underwicking? Overwicking?
  18. I feel like Im at my wits end with these wicks. Im using 464 and testing 8 oz square masons + small weck jars - 2" in diameter . Heres what Ive tried so far in unscented wax . Square Masons : CD 8 and one in CD 10 and I just poured one with a CD 12 and heres why. CD 8 wicks great while burning + minimal mushrooming - CD 10 looks good too but Im not getting a deep enough melt pool with either one plus Im getting a lot of wax hang up - can't stand this Poured 2 SM weck jars - one in a CD 5 and one in a CD 6 . Both have a great flame but got less wax hang up with a CD 6. If anyone has experience with CDN's will I face the same challenges with wax hangup whats the difference between both wick series ? I need opinions on the wick sizes Ive chosen thus far for the mason jars - thoughts appreciated. Maybe a should try a different series all together ? Open for any suggestions you might have to offer. Thank you in advance
  19. For those of you that have ordered from Aztec, what are some of your favorites. Barbara's post of their Pine boughs + Apples inspired me to try this one. Any tried their Vanilla Bean - Cozy Cabin - Tobacco - Kentucky Bourbon - Apple Pie . I already have their Blueberry cobbler + its really good. So is anyone ordering FO's during Black Friday ? I hope Fillmore is having a sale Id like to get a pound of the Cranberry Citrus - Love this one ! If anyones tried Fillmore's Cranberry + plum, please let me know what you thought. They've got some great oils !
  20. I've been experimenting with 464 + CD wicks. Im on the fence with these wicks. First off, Im not getting the throw I want with the FO's Ive been testing with. Fillmore's Christmas tree I think will need more than 6%, so I have to retest it again at a higher fragrance load. The problem Im having with these wicks is they burn SO hot. For example, my one test candle was burning well as far as flame size goes + burn pool but getting no HT. However, on my second burn that same wick was way too hot for the last half of candle. I think Id like to try the Premiere wicks and see what happens. For those of you that use Premiers what is a good starting point for containers that are 3" in diameter ? What about double wicking - how do you figure that out with Premieres ? Im just looking for basic guide lines. How do the Premieres burn, are they as hot as the CD's. On a side note, the 2 pines Ive tested / Fillmore Xmas tree + WSP Frasier Fir - I have to say I prefer the WSP Frasier fir. But both have an awesome CT in 464. Are additives ever added to 464 to help with HT ? Another question I have is, Has anyone mixed palm wax with soy. I recently bought a candle with this combo, it was awesome - great HT ... I buy a lot off of Etsy - mainly because I like to support small business + I just love handmade anything ! I'm really impressed with the candles I order from Etsy, In all fairness I only order from about 3 companies. If you use 464 Im looking forward to hearing what suggestions you might have for me + if you think adding more than 6% FO would help - I really so think it would ( IDK?) Thanks everyone
  21. Hi all I'm hoping someone can help me out. I've been at this a year now and I'm still struggling as I've yet to make a good throwing all soy candle. This is the 12oz status jar with 464 wax, a cd-14 wick, CS strudel and spice FO & 6% and a 13 day cure. I literally smell this candle best after I've blown it out. Why is that? I trim all my wicks to 1/4 inch before each burn but I still end up with mushroom on most my candles. The pictures I've included are my most recent 3.5 hour burn. This is the 4th day burning in 3 hour increments with each burn. How does it look? What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance.
  22. Good morning everyone I received my samples of GB 464 + 415 last week but haven't decided on wicks to test yet. Any suggestions on what type/sizes to get. Im going to use some 8 oz square mason jars/ 3" diameter & some other jars that are a tad wider too - I think some jars I was looking at were 3.5" or slightly smaller ? Also, where can I get the rustic looking lids - the chunky ones that look rusted? Ive seen them on I think soysolutions ??? but they were over $1 a lid - does that sound about right for price ? it just seemed high to me but idk ? Thank you in advance for any help you guys might have to offer
  23. I'm having a bit of trouble single wicking this jar. It's an 11oz Libby straight sided tumbler jar with a diameter of 3.125in. Im use 464 wax and a CD16 wick. I was using a CD14 and always had quite a bit of residue on one side of the jar. This is the 3rd burn and I can't seem to get it clean on the sides. Should I keep going and eventually it will catch up or do I need to wick up? Thanks for any help or advice. I've posted pics below. PS- This test has been going since 10:17am and its 12:35pm now.
  24. Any suggest to cool my wax from 180 to 130?
  25. Just finished my candle jars for my November 18 sale. I noticed white wax in my Presto as my wax melted in the wax pot. Thought I was just being sloppy. Today, the wax seemed cloudy all the way up to 185. I was going to contact Nature's Garden to see if they had an answer. Then I noticed a tiny hole in my wax pot. So I guess I have water in half of the candles I plan on selling in two weeks. Yeah, ready to cry. Is there any way these will still be okay to sell? The tops are nice and smooth, but who knows "what lies beneath." How does the water affect the soy if it is in my pint jars? GoldieMN
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