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Help! I got my first starter set from Amazon to make soy wax candles. I’m following the instructions and temperatures, but can’t seem to get a smooth top I’m getting a lot of craters. I smoothed some out with a hair dryer to fill the holes (didn’t have a heat gun), but once lit they cratered again. I also tried experimenting with black liquid candle dye in one of them and not only did it crater, but looks like some sort of sugar crystals on top and dried to more of a grey (I put 8 drops in)lol. I have watched and read a bunch on do’s and don’ts but can’t seem to get it right. I did end up buying some better quality materials to use but I really want to get the technique right before I use them!
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Hello everyone I am new here. I had just started making candles last month after about 15 years. I really like essential oils and have tried making some candles with essential oils but the cold throw is quite poor with EO. So I have decided to invest on fragrance oils but there are few EO which I feel would go really well with some of the fragrance oils that I like so far so just wanted to double check if its okay to mix them. Thanks A- 3 replies
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Container candles are some of the most popular types of candles in today's modern candle-making world. They are extremely fun to make and they are beautiful to look at depending on the type of glass you decide to house your candles in. Many beginners love to make container candles due to their simplicity. Using the correct wax in order to make a container candle is critical for the performance of your candle. THE BEST WAX FOR YOUR CANDLES? Having a wax that can provide an even burn, as well as hold both fragrance and color well is crucial to creating the perfect container candle. In order to receive the best performance from your container candle, it is best to use Soy Wax! Soy wax is great for container candles due to its extended burn time, little to no soot burn, and its great scent throw. Soy wax provides an even burn so you get the most out of your candles. For all eco-friendly candle makers, not to worry, soy wax has been proven to have the cleanest burns so not only would you be creating amazing candles with this wax, but you would also be helping the environment. Soy wax has no toxins, so it would be less likely to trigger allergies. Overall, soy wax is not only the most compatible wax to use for container candles but it is also the safer and more eco-friendly option. OTHER CANDLE WAX TYPES Although soy wax is the clear-cut favorite for all container candles, it is important to know the differences between each wax. The most popular waxes that are used for candle-making are Soy Wax, Beeswax, Paraffin wax, and Coconut wax. We’ve already discussed why soy wax is great for container candles, but that doesn’t mean it’s best for every type of candle. Paraffin wax is great for making taper candles and pillar candles. This wax holds color the best, and it is highly versatile in its usage. Paraffin wax is also very inexpensive which is why beginners usually start off with paraffin wax. Paraffin wax also does not burn as long as Soy wax making it less worth the while if you are looking for a long burn time. BEESWAX Beeswax, like paraffin, is great to use for taper and pillared candles. Beeswax has been for a long time making it the most reliable of the bunch. This wax has the longest burn time out of the rest, and it has little drip when compared to other waxes. Beeswax has a warm-toned flame which doesn’t give off any smoke from your candle, making it good for both your home and the environment. One downside for beginners is that this wax is much more expensive than paraffin and soy. The reason for this is due to the natural production of this wax and the popularity of it. While beeswax is more of a higher quality when comparing burn time and the performance of other waxes, we wouldn’t recommend it for beginners who are not looking to break the bank when starting their candle-making journey. COCONUT WAX Coconut wax is a newer wax that has very similar attributes to soy wax. In fact, more times than not, Coconut wax will usually be found in a blend with soy wax. This wax burns extremely well, giving an even burn to almost every candle. Many people think the coconut factor may affect the scent of their candle, but Coconut wax is actually scent free and works very well with fragrance oils. Coconut wax is another great alternative for container candles if you would like a more vegan and eco-friendly wax. Although it is a great wax to use for beginners, it is often found in blends more than it’s sold on its own. For a purer wax, Soy will always be the go-to wax for great performance, great scent throw, and amazing compatibility with glass jars. -
wick suggestions to order for testings for htp, cd, and lx wicks for Millenium soy wax, 165 melt point, 12% fragrance load. 8 oz round candle tins w/lid, top diameter of 3.15inx3.34inbottomx2.16in tall and 4.4oz round candle tins w/lids top diameter of 2.9inx2.9inbottomx1.93in tall. haalp please lol thank yall Oh and I read (quite a few times) that i should up the recommended size of wicks for high temp one pour natural soys like mine is, have any of yall had any experience with this? thanks again -
https://www.candlemakingsupplies.net/2022/06/08/all-about-our-natural-waxes/ As a candle maker, it can be tedious looking for the right candle wax that not only fit your budget but fit your lifestyle and values. To continue to do our part not only by providing a variety of products to cater to all candle makers we are also doing our part to preserve our environment by carrying products that are 100% natural. All of our 100% natural waxes can be considered “plant-based” and even vegan as they are processed using naturally derived ingredients. In this blog, our candle-making expert will go over all of our 100% natural products and their benefits. 100% SOY WAX G1 SUPERIOR 100% SOY WAX Our new G1 Superior 100% Soy Wax is naturally derived from vegetable soybeans and has many advantages such as an extended burn time, no unsightly black soot, and is less likely to trigger allergies. This product has a creamy texture with great glass adhesion and a melting point of 122F – 126F. Manufactured with the candle makers in mind. While there are other soy waxes available, this was designed and made for candle users, not the food industry. For example, others will process the wax in less than 2 hours, G1’s process takes over 4 hours. The slower process leaves many double bonds. The double bonds are very good to help reduce the chances of fat blooming also known as frosting. CARGILL C3 NATUREWAX 100% SOY WAX Our Cargill C3 Nature wax is 100% Soy Wax and is quite resistant to bloom (white frosting) and “wet spots” while producing an excellent scent throw with fragrances. This 100% soy wax is specifically designed for container candles, producing an opaque product with a balanced, creamy look and has great adhesion to glass. Shrinkage is minimal when cooling however most jars will require touch-up with a heat gun or a second pouring. It comes in flake form with a melting point of 127℉ and a flash point >600℉. Our manufacturing processes separate the protein from the oil to create oils that are GMO free. We use only GMO free oils to create our waxes. Our wax has been tested using the PCR test method (the industry standard used to verify non-GMO claims), and the qualitative test results have shown that GMOs are “Not detected.” Soy wax is a 100% natural wax derived from the vegetable soybeans. Soy wax is made from environmentally friendly, renewable resources. This wax has many advantages: an extended burn time, no unsightly black soot, and it’s a naturally-derived product. Soy wax is perfect for container candles, tealight candles, wax melts and tarts. Some of the benefits of this wax are clean burning and being long-lasting. Since soy wax has no toxins, it is less likely to trigger allergies. Soy wax burns cooler which means that you can enjoy your soy wax candle for generally 30-50% longer. 100% Beeswax 100% REFINED BEESWAX Our premium-grade, 100% beeswax is all-natural, chemical and particle-free. The beeswax is perfect for candle and soap making, batiking fabric, painting in encaustics, or mixing up a batch of specialty furniture polish. Beeswax candles are also commonly used during religious services as well as numerous hobby and craft projects. This Beeswax is easy to use and perfect for those who want to craft candles using natural products and again great for the environment. 100% Beeswax Honeycomb Sheets Our 100% beeswax honeycomb sheets are richly colored and textured. This beeswax sheet is soft and flexible and can be easily rolled up to make an elegant candle with a natural aroma. By making it with beeswax material, your candle can be used for a long time. This product is perfectly suitable for candle-making, crafts, modeling, bowstring waxing, sealing bottles and jars or just for plain decorating. These uniquely textured sheets are available in different vibrant colors and can be used for rolling taper candles and pillar candles. As mentioned before each of our 100% natural waxes is considered “plant-based” and even vegan as they are processed using naturally derived ingredients. These products are easy to use and great for not only candle-making but other at-home craft projects you may have.
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Hi everyone! I hope I am in the right place! I am a newbie here on craftserver, and I started my candle business in September of 2021. I plan to launch next year. Enough about me and more about why I am making this thread. Earlier this year when I started making candles I really wanted to do a soy candle. I got the C3 wax and began mass producing different scents- not knowing how it all works. After lots of wasted money and attempts- because not only was I mass producing candles with this wax, I was also using one wick, then found out that wick didn’t work, so what did I do? I ordered a new wick and mass produced again the following week- and so on and so fourth, going through about 6 different wicks, all while mass producing. I since then switched over to a para-soy wax- IGI 6006. I really love the wax but I seriously can’t figure it out with the wicks. Im almost to the point of doing an all paraffin wax because I know my candle will sell for the meaning behind it… I lost two children. My daughter passed away in 2014 due to sepsis and my son passed away in 2016 due to pneumonia. I started my business in memory of my babies- every candle will be named after a person. If you would like to see more I’ll link my YouTube here. I am also on TikTok @corrinamallory and my candle page @knlheavenscentcandleco please give me advice on what wicks to try and or if I should maybe switch to a paraffin wax? I am soooooo desperate for help! PLEASEEEE! YouTube
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Hi everyone! I hope I am in the right place! I am a newbie here on craftserver, and I started my candle business in September of 2021. I plan to launch next year. Enough about me and more about why I am making this thread. Earlier this year when I started making candles I really wanted to do a soy candle. I got the C3 wax and began mass producing different scents- not knowing how it all works. After lots of wasted money and attempts- because not only was I mass producing candles with this wax, I was also using one wick, then found out that wick didn’t work, so what did I do? I ordered a new wick and mass produced again the following week- and so on and so fourth, going through about 6 different wicks, all while mass producing. I since then switched over to a para-soy wax- IGI 6006. I really love the wax but I seriously can’t figure it out with the wicks. Im almost to the point of doing an all paraffin wax because I know my candle will sell for the meaning behind it… I lost two children. My daughter passed away in 2014 due to sepsis and my son passed away in 2016 due to pneumonia. I started my business in memory of my babies- every candle will be named after a person. If you would like to see more I’ll link my YouTube here. I am also on TikTok @corrinamallory and my candle page @knlheavenscentcandleco please give me advice on what wicks to try and or if I should maybe switch to a paraffin wax? I am soooooo desperate for help! PLEASEEEE! YouTube
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Hi. I have made a candle that looks like the attached picture . Dont know how to describe it. Why is that ?. I have used paraffin wax with color and the end results were disappointing.
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If so, how is the HT experience for you? Also, is it consistent and are you having a good wicking time? lol -
PLEASE HELP WOULD BE HUGLY APPRECIATED I have recently been making soy pillar candles but are struggling with the amount of time the candle burns for. I currently use kerasoy pillar blend and cosy owl fragrance oils at 10%. I add FO at 175-180f and pour at around 150f into a silicon mould where it’s lefts to cool for 24hrs then I remove it from the mould and leave it alone for a week. But once I burn it the candle lasts no longer that 20 mins I don’t know where I’m going wrong and I have searched the internet for answers and can’t find them anywhere! I’m hoping someone is able to give me some answers
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Okay! So I have finally decided to graduate to making tea light candles rather then just waxmelt and....I am uncertain of my product. My biggest issue is my hot throw. The CT is amazeballs but as soon as you light that sucker up there is much to be desired. I am using GB 444 in a standard tealight tin with a eco .5 wick. For a test area I place it in my bathroom which is about 11ft by 6ft , so fairly small, and I don't really smell much. Maybe a medium throw. The candles have been curing for over a week so I feel like now is a good time to start testing....... Anyways for all you guys out there who have used 444 what is your advice? What should be the general scent radius for one tealight candle? Should I try two at once rather then one?
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I am fairly new to making wax melts and every now and then I run into a little hiccup. I use Golden Brands 494 for my melts and heat them up to 180 then I add my color wait till 160 then add my fragrance then wait till 130 to pour. For the most part everything comes out great the first pour into the mold however after that it all goes pear shaped. At the moment I only own one silicone mold (11 cubbies) so after pouring the necessary amount the rest remains in the pouring cup, where it hardens and then has to get remelted (normally at 140) after the second time doing this I noticed that the wax refuses to fuse and harden. It has the same consistency of damp flour. The smell is still great and I can still put it in the warmer however I t just refuses to harden. My main question is, if it is because the remelting. Does it permanently mess with the soy's molecular structure? I have 6 molds coming in from amazon so my redundant method of production should become more efficient. Grace
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I would like to start of by saying that I am fairly new to the candle making game. Unlike some seasoned veterans I barley have a year under my belt making candles and wax melts. However, with the risk of sounding prideful, I make good products. My HT and CT are strong and I have a set process that gives 90% sucess (avoiding major issues) when it comes to production. That being siad, the other 10% lies in the look of the candle. I use soy 464 for my candles and 494 for my melts and each frost. I understand that it is because it is natural and that is what soy does however I can't help but question if someone would want to buy a candle with it. Personally I would be okay with it because I know the quality of the candle is maintained in its most principle level (the scent) however the average consumer might not know that. For the bussiness owners out there, what is your take on selling these 'imperfect' candles?
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Hello everyone. I just signed up to this forum. I look forward to learning a lot and interacting with fellow candle makers! Little background; My wife and I are just getting started making candles. We live Right outside of Atlanta Ga. Once we perfect making them we are going to teach our 7 year old daughter how make the candles. Eventually we plan to let her do all the candle making, coloring, labeling, scent choices, etc. So candle making will be her hobby and her business, she is super excited about it. We’ve only made 2 candles so far. Products just arrived 4 days ago. We are using gb444 soy wax, fragrance oils from Aztec(that’s where all our products came from), 8oz patio jars, and wi-767 wicks. We test burned 1 with 24hr cure time(probably should have waited longer from everything I’ve read)and not getting strong hot throw at all. We are going to let the other one cure for 1 week. We added FO at 185 degrees and poured at 135. Candles look perfect and cold throw is good. We used 1.25oz of FO in 16oz of wax(both measured by weight and not volume) We plan to test pour a dozen or so tomorrow. Using different FO/wax ratios, different pour temps, different temps we add oil, etc. We are open to any advice, suggestions, and/or criticism. We are only four days into candle making so all help is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ben
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I am new into candlemaking for a while and having tried many combination during the course and need some expert comments since i am in India and no pre fabricated wax blends are available all has to be done by yourself my first blend was 450 gms soy wax 5% palm stearic(22)gms 4% vybar (18 gms) 30 ml fragrance oil color dye and appropriate wick problem faced were low cold throw and big wax pool second experiment 250 gms soy wax 200 gms bees wax 50 gms paraffin oil same fragrance oil and dye and wick good things were good cold and hot throw problem faced very little wax pool tunnelling and ugly looking jar with wax adhered to the sides of jar pics attached can anyone suggest the right blend that fixes these problems really stressed
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I have tried so many wicks but not sure why the flame of my candle just blows out like in 15 mins and also I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong the kind of jar I’m using is a Square mason 8oz glass jar. I’m not sure what kind of wick should I buy from amazon 😓
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Hello Everyone! I am new to the website and love the info and feedback in the community - I am hoping to get a little guidance with this wax I love so dearly but drives me insane with the adhesion problem. This wax is supposed to have excellent glass adhesion when poured at the correct temperature. I am using 8 oz Square Mason jars. No pre-heating. I have thought to preheat but my oven doesn't go low enough and a heat gun does such an uneven job I worry about that being an issue. I heat to 185* add FO slowly. I have done this and poured slowly at 120*, 125*, 135*, 160* and 165*. I have had TOTAL pull away all the way around with every pour except 165* just a bit around the jar where it begins to curve (after 7 days of curing). The candle sits on a cloth or paper towel with room temperature always between 71*-75*. I am almost ready to switch waxes but I LOVE everything about this wax I just need to get jar adhesion down and make this a one pour job. Any further tips and tricks/advice is greatly appreciated!
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What are the top wax blends for melts? I know this question could have so many answers and it can be different results for each person but I'm kinda looking for a place to begin...I love soy and the look of it so I would rather use a parasoy blend...tried a all soy blend with terrible results unfortunately :/ Pretty bummed about it. Does anyone use vybar? Will that help my results with a all soy blend or parasoy blend..
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Ok guys, I'm looking for the scoop here! Does anyone have any idea why Eco Soya might have discontinued their wax so abruptly?? When I got word this wax line was being discontinued, I placed a last panicked order. Now I'm noticing that all my candles are burning 10-20 degrees hotter all of a sudden! Plus, this week I found THREE candles that have gone rancid! This has never happened to me, and they aren't even that old, one is from June, but the other two are from this December! This makes me super nervous using any of my remaining Eco Soya as you might imagine... EcoSoya is saying they were closed down because the FDA is banning partially hydrogenated soybean oil but then, after they gave news, they closed their plant WAY faster than expected. I'm concerned that I have to create a whole new wick combo just for my last boxes from EcoSoya because of the hot burning issue - and I have a lot! Is anyone else experiencing hot burning issues? And on the rancid candle note... anyone have experience there?
