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Wolverine

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Everything posted by Wolverine

  1. WOW! Guys, Thanks for that information. It sounds like Aroma Haven- Fresh Lemon Slices is what I'm looking for so I guess I'll give that a try next. If it throws as good as Addict says, it's a keeper. I have a lot of customers asking for a lemon scent. Thanks again.
  2. Can anyone tell me where I can get a true lemon FO that hot throws awesome in 464. I have tried Peak's and Southern Scentsations lemon pound cake but neither has much of a hot throw. Don't know about CS. Thanks in advance.
  3. Thanks so much for all the replies candlers. Perhaps I am trying to be a little too perfect. It’s just that the flicker, at least to me, does not seem to be caused by a draft. It is more like a very rapid sputter but only for a second or two and then back to a normal flame. I think Alan might have given me the answer in the fact that transient interruptions of oxygen flow could be the cause. But I wonder if there is a way to prevent this? OH well, I’ll just keep trying. Thanks again for all your advise. In return I would like to offer some advice for others. If you live where it’s warm, be thankful and don’t come to Michigan. We had 16 inches of snow the other night and it was down to 16 below actual. It was cold enough to freeze your candles. Carry on.
  4. I was wondering if anyone can help me understand the reason for the problem I am having. My candle is burning wonderfully with all the correct attributes, EXCEPT every few minutes the flame rapidly flickers. I call it a machine gun flicker. The flame is still standing straight up so it is not from air currents or a draft. Can the amount of FO cause this? Color? FO= Blue Spruce from CS? I have tried different wicks (HTP 126 in 464) made by different companies, even raw with my own priming, but it still does the same thing. Tried dropping the FO load down but it still does it. I’m at a loss and need some help. IF I only knew why a flame behaves in this manner I could work on fixing the problem. Thanks for any information you may provide. May all your candles burn perfect on the first test. This is as frustrating as my new windows 8.
  5. Can someone give me the scientific reason for a candle flame that is burning good and then all of a sudden flickers like a machine gun for a second and then returns to burning good for awhile before flickering again. The flame is standing straight up all the time.

  6. Did you give it a chance to cure before pouring?
  7. I spent a lot of money on new glue guns and high temp glue, the highest they have that I can fine, 251 Degree softening point but they still come lose. I think it is from the oil in the FO. Only thing that holds for sure is High-Temp Red Permatex. Trust me. A little over 4 bucks at Wall-mart. If you put a little foil wrap over the neck before putting the top back on it keeps it from getting hard.:rolleyes2 PS: you have to let them cure overnight
  8. I was wondering if anyone else is having this problem. A year ago I poured a number of candles using a mixture of 444 and 464 in different size containers, 8 and 12 ounce status and others along with tea lights and now the wax seems to have grown to the point that I can no longer get the glass tops on and the wick is hardly visible. I have no clue why this has happened. Any ideas?
  9. Can someone tell me of a supplier that sells the best "Fresh baked bread" FO and has a good HT in GB 464? Any info. would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.http://craftserver.com/forums/images/icons/icon7.png
  10. Wolverine

    Lather

    Thanks for your reply Ravens. Just today, I received some supplies, I did try sodium lauryl sulfoacetate as suggested by Isg, and it did improve the lather quiet well to the point it is acceptable. However, I was also told by ND that I should add 1 teaspoon of Cocoglucoside per 4 ounce bar to help with the problem which I have not tried yet but will make a test bar tomorrow. I will see about ordering some shaving base and give that a try too. Thanks again for the tip. I need all the help I can get.
  11. Wolverine

    Lather

    That sounds like something which might work and I sure will give it a try. Thank you for that information Isg.:smiley2:
  12. Wolverine

    Lather

    Thanks Cindym. I do not believe I am adding anything that would affect it... different FO's and a small amount of CO in some. I have tried different things and also without anything at all but they all seem to react the same. That is with little lather and the bar seems to get slimy too.
  13. Wolverine

    Lather

    Yes, they are made by Stephenson's. I believe it is from UK but distributed through New Directions. The block I had last year worked good so that is why I ordered more but this stuff hardly lathers. ND said they have not changed their formula but as someone said, the proof is in the pudding.
  14. Wolverine

    Lather

    I just purchased two 25-pound blocks of Goat milk and shea butter base from New Directions and I am having trouble getting any lather with it. In a previous purchase of a block of Goat milk base from them, it was rather easy to achieve a rich creamy lather very quickly. I was just wondering if anyone else has any problems along these lines. Thanks for any info. you can provide.
  15. I do appreciate the advice from all of you but I just do not understand. What I am talking about is a 3D mold for a rectangle 5-ounce bar of soap. It only has a small opening to act as a funnel when you pour the soap in and I do not think spraying that would fix the problem. Am I missing something?
  16. Does anyone else have problems with or know the secret on how to get rid of the small air bubbles that form at the top of a 3D mold? I pour at 150 degrees and that seems to help but they are still there. It is as though the soap sets too soon for all the air bubbles to get out and the bar comes out with a frothy looking top. I need some help. I might even leave something in my will for you. Thanks for any advise.
  17. I must be missing something. I checked out the site but I see no place where you can make a purchase. I guess I will have to give them a call. Thanks for the link.
  18. Where can someone buy CDN wick on a spool in the US. Looking for all sizes. I have been surfing the net but and can't seem to find any. http://www.craftserver.com/forums/images/smilies/cry2.gif
  19. I am using a glass container and the wicks are 3/4 inch in to the center of the tab. The HT and CT is great using 8% of Vanilla Hazelnut from CS and 464. Tried a lot of different wicks and most made the container a tad warmer than should be. The ECO 2 had a nice flame but that also was a tad big. Waiting for a spool of ECO 1 and I have a feeling that is the wick that will work best. From the Info. I have been getting, it now appears that the distance in for the wick should be more than what I am using. I will pour a new candle with the ECO 1 and move the wick in to 1 inch and see what happens. Thanks for the input.
  20. That is why all my candles say, "Trim between 1/8 and 1/4 inch before every lighting." However I do think the 1/8 is better and does not seem to effect the burn time to reach full pool. Most people just reach in the container and break off the wick with their fingers and that seem to give the 1/8 anyway.:smiley2:
  21. Thank you folks for answering my question. I did not know if there was a standard and the quote of needing to be an inch away from the glass seems to be in keeping with what I am finding out with my burns. I am using a 4-inch straight side container and at present, the wicks are set at about 3/4 inch from the outside or really the inside. I have tried many different wicks and all seem to produce a full melt pool within 1-1/2 hour. At present, a LX 12 seems to be working good. The wax is about 3/4 gone and although you can pick up the container and not have to call 9-1-1, it seems a bit warm for me. I will try my next test moving them into an inch. Thanks again people. Wolverine
  22. Is there a formula for the distance in from the edge of the container to place the wicks when you triple wick?
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