schmism

so as someone who's always heard the term... but has lived in the midwest all his life... how far north is "upstate NY" (used to vacation in the Adirondacks as a kid)

to quote from another source second number is speed its run through the braiding machine....doesn't mean much other than faster speeds (higher number) = tighter weave = less wicking action third is temp code for machine setup (again doesn't mean much to us it varries based on the first 2) zinc means it has a small zinc wire at the core, designed to help it stand upright in the melt pool and not fall over and drown. If seriously overwicked, The candle will have a very large flame (perhaps 1.25" tall or more) it will have a tendency to soot. So much fuel (wax) is been fed into the flame (by the wic) that the flame doesn't have enough time to burn it all, and thus some is given off as incomplete burnt particles = soot The wick may have a tendency to mushroom at the tip as particles build up on it. your burn times for your candles will decrease greatly as your burning a lot of wax quickly. Often overwicking is wanted because that large amount of wax burnt also means large amount of FO that is released into the air = larger "throw" you have to balance this effect with the sooting mentioned above. You may run across people that say there commercial candles throw really well.... but also have a tendency to soot. (this is why) Flickering can also happen, this is when the wick is sucking up all the available melted wax quicker than the flame can melt more. So the flame oscillate back and forth as it melts wax, then quickly draws it up increasing in intensity, but then starves out and falls back. some self trimming wicks (ones that curl over into the edge of the flame) can help keep a wick from growing to large and perpetuating a really large flame.

Thats the exact type of documentation im referring to. for instance LX (flat braid type) that doc recommends LX-10,12,14 In practice 16 burns well and ive seen some go as high as lx 20. (10 and 12 exhibit classic underwic symptoms, insufficient melt pool... drowning, very small flame) a zinc core version (often recommended for votives) shipped in kits and used in pracitce , 44-24-18 is one above the 6 previous lesser sizes recommended for votives. I think its worth repeating, When I started, I read plenty of recommended wic charts, I purchased a couple from middle of the charts.... I was unhappy with the results. I went back and started researching what people ACTUALLY said they used, and what wics were shipped in votive "kits" and often found a 2 or more size "overwick". Advise about FO requireing upsized wicks is also true. Knowing what I know now, I always purchase 2-3 over what is recommended and if its really oversized, its still burnable. but undersized wics that drown out after 5-10 min of being lit are just no fun.

should have 99% of the same stuff http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?109041-Candlewic-FO-quot-S-any-must-haves

why not use the plastic pop corn containers..... you can pour boiling water in them if your unshure how they will take the heat while in the sink. (boiling water 212F at sealevel or 100c) this is much hotter than wax you might pour at 180f or 150 if "cold"

Ive struggled to understand the difference between recommended wic sizes and the reality it takes to achieve the burn I expect. From what I've seen recommended in practice, and from my own testing, over wicking by at least 2 sizes is a good place to start. I make a lot of votives and its surprising to see how large a wic people end up actual using vs what is recommended on paper. (2 over is common although ive seen as high as 4 over)

I thought monkey farts was always a good seller....

HPDE plastic is not really molded but more likely built from sheet and heat welded

sounds much more like a friend of a friend heard a story that was read off the internet..... and well... you know how that goes....

what specifically is "blazing hot" i never melt a single batch without a themo in it. Peak instructions call for adding FO at 200+. Its interesting to take your wax to 220 and see how much water boils out of it. I'll add FO at 200-205 and let cool to 175. I almost always pour my votives at 175.

just dont understand....

i ordered 2 of peak's starter kits. Although i got the wrong wicks in my votive kit im very pleased with the products and value in terms of kit. you might ask what the purpose of the of the candle burning... if its for the sent, you can suggest she make her own melts which dont require messing with wicks (perhaps the biggest pain in DIY candles)

the marketplace on the boards...... look down..... http://www.craftserver.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?12-Classified-Ads.

have you used this mold with other wax? has other wax performed the same way with the trouble mold?

have you tried pouring the same wax in a non-silcone mold? AL pillar molds or steel votive cups.... (glass pt jars) Im not convinced its not a wax/color/FO issue and has nothing to do with the mold.