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TallTayl

The Ones Who Keep The Lights On
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Everything posted by TallTayl

  1. Turkey Red is sulfonated Castor oil. It is about the only oil that will disperse in water without an additional emulsifier. Problem with it is many people find it very irritatiing. I would not use it directly on my skin, but in a tub full of water, maybe.
  2. How about RitaMulse (made by RitaCorp, marketed also as Natrazmulse and EcoMulse)? It is EcoCert and works well in many things along side an appropriate co-emulsifier. Beeswax is not an emulsifier. Many old formulas advise usingborax and beeswax to make a soap in situ. It's not great feeling on skin and will not be overly stable.
  3. What a mess. So sorry to hear you were used like that. Reads like some of the stuff your mom may have sold was technically stolen since you said no and the items ended up in the purse anyway. I would always recommend forming your business in such a way to protect your assets, then insure before selling. Right now, as a hobbyist you are much like a person making cupcakes or jelly to give to your mom and friends. What person who makes jam, cookies or bread for fun and does not sell is insured for product liability? If you bring cupcakes to your mom's house for dessert tonight, and leave the left overs, and she decides to sell them because they are so tasty how are you accountable? In the meantime, i would draw a line and stop this nonsense now. You have enough to worry about i'm sure.
  4. I have tried 50:50 with soy container wax and the blend was still way too hard to burn properly for a container. Personally, making a candle using large amounts of oils not intended to be lit on fire would not be my first choice.
  5. Amazing work! Color me a huge fan of yours.
  6. Also use Elevance in your search term I use C-3 and prefer it to all other soy container waxes i have tried.
  7. I never saw any improvement with 464 and beeswax. I do remember reading a Golden Brands tech paper a long while back that cautioned against using beeswax in their 464 blend. As for FMP, i don't go for that on the first several burns. By the time the wax gets part way burned down the container the temps tend to get much higher, making the whole container much too hot. I use CD, CDN and CSN wicks. All tend to curl to one side. You can twist the wick when you make the candle to help it "unwind" as it burns to even the melt pool.
  8. I have had the best luck with CSN, followed by CDN in both containers (glass glow) and pillars (feather Palm). TopOfMurrayHill did quite a few nice long knockout burn tests comparing wicks on this forum. If you search for posts by TopofMurrayHill with Wick Palm as search words you may strike gold.
  9. Have you tried sunshine container or yourboxsolution.com?
  10. My 3 inch diameter tins burn well with CDN 12 typically.
  11. For wicks, i have been very pleased with CSN in palm (glass glow and feather palm). CDN perform nearly as well and are a bit easier to source. I have tried square braid in my palm, but was not happy with the overall burn, though i do like square braid in soy.
  12. Had a 3-day garden fair. Gorgeous weather, nearby air show (so extra fun entertainment as the Thunderbirds flew over), great friends we see only once a year. Soap in the newest custom blended scents sold mostly, quite a few beeswax candles and neck coolers.
  13. I use glass glow in containers and feather palm for pillars. Both have the frost patterns on all surfaces. It's kinda part of the palm dealio i love the texture myself.
  14. I don't wick for FMP on the first, or even the second burn. HT is more than just a FMP.
  15. When i clean wax now i melt and pour through 2-3 pieces of felt once. My wax usually gets clean enough. Sometimes, not often i will need to do it twice. Panty hose should work, but may be a little messier. I have used muslin and it gets clogged as i pour, making a mess, esp if i pour too fast. Beeswax ornaments are easy and very pretty. I use flat clay cookie molds lubed with a little silicone release spray. they're really popular during the holidays.
  16. Here is what was posted when the closing announcement was made:
  17. I remember rhonda told what autumn embers was renamed from. Fireside or something? Let me look.
  18. Cleaning raw beeswax is easiest (i find) by melting it all and running it through several layers of felt. You may be surprised at how little finished wax comes from that 5 gallon bucket. I tried wet rendering and only got about 6 ounces of finished wax cappings from a gallon of capping mixed with the honey. Talk about a let down. Starting with beeswax candles is easiest IME with either tapers or bigger pillars (3 inch around). That skep in your picture may be ok to start with, the only challenge being the taper from the top. That one will take about 9-11 ounces of wax. I have a few similar in shape to that one that burn pretty well. Smaller beeswax candles meant to be burned in containers, like votives, can get pretty darned hot, hot enough to shatter many glass votive holders if wicked for a traditional melt pool. Nothing was more frustrating, though, than making beeswax tea lights that burned correctly.
  19. salt is just convenient and simple for my easily distracted brain... If it spills, nice easy clean up. It's also a nice visual to remind me that something is in the jar. How many times have I washed the scent jar before realizing something was in there i needed to check up on... I have dpg, but never think to use it. Have also used IPM to dilute, like for reed diffusers.
  20. I blend anything and everything. Sometimes a fragrance l needs a boost to make it perfect. Sometimes i hold two caps together and think, hey there's an interesting combo! I like to put drops on a small square of paper towel folded into a square of aluminum foil. You can tape the foil packets to a sheet of paper to organize and take notes. The foil keeps the scent intact for a really long time and files really well. Bonus that i can send loads of those foil sniffies to people for opinions for the cost of a First Class stamp. If i like a blend, i move on to Drops in salt in a canning jar. I can shake the jar and heat the salt to see if i like how they play over time. The only word of caution, if you're making blends for skin use: watch usage limits. Some, not all, eo's and fo's have pretty low safe usage rates. Like Anise, for instance at .1% of the finished product. Blend it to keep the total at or below the target limit.
  21. I have never needed stabilizers in oil based perfume, even with the fragrances that go the deepest of dark browns.
  22. Gosh, So many possibilities... Glad it's burning well now, but how scary!Did the fragrance load exceed the total wax capacity of the palm/paraffin blend? Palm wax usually needs pretty high melting temps. Was the oil fully blended into the molten wax at a high enough temp to fully blend? Was it mixed long enough to homogenize the oils and wax?
  23. It's about time to burp your fragrance bottles. Changes in temps will change pressure inside your fragrance and essential oil bottles. I shoot for at least twice a year: Spring and Fall. Just twist open and shut the cap and tou'll probably hear a little sigh from the bottle. And for the shake... Got a jug of FO in and sat it on the work bench as i tried to decide what to do with it. Noticed this morning that there was a clear line of separation of heavier aromachemicals from lighter. Out of habit i shake my bottles before decanting and made a mental note that it's probably a good thing. Separation and settling in a large master container would explain how once in a while I get a small tester of a new fragrance that everyone raves is a strong one and i cannot smell a darned thing in my sample.
  24. Has anyone ever tried sunflower wax in candles? Even in a blend? I am sitting here looking at 25 kilos of it and am about to see what happens... It has a pretty high MP(74-77C), much higher than even Beeswax which I usually use, so thinking a blend is in my future.
  25. I have them by size first (1-2 oz samples in one bin), then by supplier in the bigger bottles. Kegs go in bulk storage.
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