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Try These, 1.8"x1.8" they work great for me Andy http://www.onlinelabels.com/ol5175.htm

I use the digital with remote probe. I have 4-5 of these and they are all within 1-2 degrees of one another, Andy http://shop.bakerscatalogue.com/detail.jsp;jsessionid=08302619271154607801307?id=4323&pv=1154607801576

Hey Guys I took the quickbooks plunge & it was one of the best decisions I made. Bit the bullet & got the Premier 2006 package from Atomicpark.com for $312.00 It does all the inventory tasks you mention with regards to building assemblies like calculating costs and subtracting parts out of stock. There are some tricks i found however when setting up your inventory that make life a bit simpler. It took me all of 3 months to set it up but its done now and its great. Andy

hewells, It might depend on your F/O load. I have used an HTP104 at 8% f/o in EZ soy wax in an 8oz jelly jar for years with no problem. Andy

After enter all your items in the list, You want to order something say from Peaks, You have to create a purchase order in Quickbooks with these same items. takes maybee 2 minutes depending on how much you order. When the order arrives, You select receive order & pay bill, follow the prompts & it adds what you ordered to your inventory. When you sell something, you create an invoice with the items sold and it subtracts what you sold from your inventory. The mistake I made is not putting things in inventory in the units I use them in. For instance wax. You order by the pound, but you use ounces when you make 1 candle. I caught this early on so it was no biggie. It also lest you set re-order points so when you get down to say 2 ounces of a particular F/O itl flag you to re-order/. Andy

Hey Guys Got a Love hate relationship going on with Quickbooks Premier 2006. I broke down & bought this package cause I needed something to track the business & inventory. Initially its very labor intensive when setting up your business & inventory. I've been plucking away at data entry for 2 months now & its finally paying off. Once you get it set up, it tracks all your purchase orders, Adds items into inventory. Invoices & sales remove items from inventory. It allows you to take inventory items like wicks, wax, F/O stickums etc & build your candle according to your own recipe. They call that an assembly item. The finished candles are then added to your inventory. You can track parts & assemblies. Really neat. As i said, setting it up is labor intensive but I have found a few tricks that help make it easier. Anyway, thought I'd share my experiences with ya. Andy

You might want to check out tradewindsfragrance.com, they have a pile of odd scents. Andy

I use Peaks Bittercreek North Tradewinds I have excelent results with these companies Andy

Henrk, I'll tip one in your Honor. The post you referred me to with regards to your wick tests were great. I had a LX Sampler kit here, its been laying around for 2 years, never been real thrilled with them for one reason or another, been an HTP man myself. I started with the LX20 and wound up with the LX24. Was going to try the LX26 but after 7-8 hours, I said the @@ is it, don't need to do more. Had it burning all day, about 10,11 hours and it did beautifully. Left about a 1/4-3/8 shell at the wax pool tapering to paper thin at the top. Gonna try it in a few more different scents but I think we got a winner Just want to thank you for your efforts. Andy

Henrk, I love that link you supplied, I must have missed it when scanning the board but i'd say its pretty telling. you do great work. Got a sampler pack of LX's here some place & will give them a try. I use the square braid wicks on the 4" dia pillars and the work well. I didn't have the problems that you seemed to have had in your testing. I primed them in the f wax also. Someone noted that the wax performance is bifferent from company to company. That may be a problem also in trying to be consistent. I just ordered a Bag of G & F wax. The last wax I used was Astrolight but I guess they don't sell it anymore. Personally I think testing criteria should be agreed upon, either that, or when talking about wicking these buggers we should all put burn times in our posts along with F/O loads. Without them i think were not comparing that same things, and it gets real confusing. Personally, I'm wicking these for a 5 hour continuous burn time and thats going to be my standard. All you guys are great in responding, thanks a million. Andy

Ok you guys I've been reading the posts on these types of pillars and am testing them right now. I'm a bit puzzled and confused though. I've posted this on other Boards too cause I really need to tap your experiences & Expertise in this subject I use the astrolite F & G wax with a 6% F/O load. I'm using BCN'c Cucumber melon for my tests. I've read where some of you guys are using RRD 47 thru 55's in your 3" pillars. I would really like to know what criteria you are using to evaluate your candles. I have a 3" wicked down to a RRD29 and get a wall blowout after 5 hours of burn. When I use a RRD47 i get a blowout after 3 1/2 hour of burn. Seems I can't find a wick small enough for these pillars. When the pillar gets 2" down, Heat buildup in the shell is higher so burn time is less before I get a blowout When you design your pillars, How long do you figure someone will burn them? I've been told to design for 8 hours continuous burn. What is your F/O Load. I believe Astrolight recommends 6% for the Palm waxes Got some 6" diameter 3 wicks that do real well for 8 hours with HTP62's and 5" diameters with HTP52's. I've got the 4" diameters pillars down pretty good. They can burn for 8 hours and still have 1/4"-3/8" walls left using #5 square Braid wicks. I just don't understand how you can use a RRD 47 or even a 50 in a Palm wax 3" diameter pillar, Would someone explain it ? Andy

Ypu, I do a Green also, I do the Mac Apple in red Andy

Hey Dianeb, How are you, Thank you and the others that replied. Frosting is a way of life with soy, I don't fight it, I co-exist with it. It is a great selling point if you work it properly. I notice more frosting when I use a heat gun on the tops than when I cool in water and pour at 106. Some dyes are more prone to frost than others. You will get heavier frosting with the darker deeper colors than with pastels. I store all my candles in the garage winter & summer. I have no problems with this from -20 degrees to +95 degrees. Doesnt seem to bother the candles at all.

Hi guys & gals I haven't posted in a while but I got a question for you all. How do you cool your wax for pouring? I've tried several ways and got different results each time and it peaked my curiosity. I use strictly EZsoy. Heat to 160-170 add dye, FO at about 150 and pour at about 105-106. I tried immersing my pour pot in cold water about half way up to bring down the temp while stirring continually. This method gives me my best results, nice creamy smooth tops. A bit labor intensive but the best outcome. I tried using a fan blowing on the pots to remove heat stirring periodically to balance out the temp in the pot. While this takes longer, it produces a dull sand paper like texture on the surface. I tried letting them stand and just cool at room temp and this method takes a real long time, 4-6 hours or more and produces an OK finish. I've been pouring about 50 candles a day for the last few weeks and pouring at the same temp all the time. Does,nt matter what scent or colors, the results are the same. I was facinated by the different results, cooling different ways and pouring at the same temp. Any comments out there? What do you all do? Andy

Anyone know where one could get these, 4 & 8oz sizes,. a search brings up limited results. tnx Andy