Glaize Creek

Do you feel that HT is affected negatively in either wax if FO is added at a higher temp like 185 degrees? Or do you beleive that matters much?

8, If you dont mind me asking...did you have any luck with the HT in the 464 at all? I just recently tried the 464 and dont care for the HT at all. Just like you, I like a strong candle and had half way decent luck with C-3 but shipping was killing me so I found 464 close to home. The local supplier does handle 415 also. You are happy with the HT in the 415?

I had been using C-3 with good results as far as CT and HT at 6%pp. I just recently switched to GW464 because I can get it locally. I'm about to pull my hair out, I've tested this stuff with probably 20 different batches and can't get a combo that I'm happy with. I've tried 6%pp and can't get much throw at all, bumped up to 7,8, and 9% varying temperatures when added. Although the wax is rated 7 to 9%pp, most of my FO's make an ugly mess out of the candle above 7.5%. Biggest problem I'm running into is hardly any HT at all. CT is good and when used as a melt, HT is awesome...just can't get the candle to throw. I've read in the archives that 100 different people seem to have a 100 different ways to make a candle. This I understand, but has anyone had better luck one way or another by adding FO's cool vs. hot. For example, I've seen where some swear you have to add FO hot to get it to blend properly and others say add it cool or you'll burn it off. Also, can one brand of wick make that much difference in throw? I've had success with ECO's in my C-3, and they seem to produce a good melt and burn well all the way through in this 464...just had to bump up one size. Any help from you pros out there will be greatly appreciated.

First I want to thank everyone that was so helpful yesterday with advise about my question about stupid customers. It has been a wake up call to say the least. I have been looking around for product liabilty insurance to cover us in the event of a possible lawsuit. The quotes I am getting are almost too high to be worth continueing to sell my candles. This is very dis-heartening as we love making our candles and thought we had a good, safe product that everyone could enjoy. This recent awakening that our life could be turned upside down because of stupid people not reading and following simple instrutions has really brought our dreams to a hault. I have gotten 2 quotes from different insurance companies and they are $1600 and $3400 annually for product liabilty insurance. Does this sound normal? Does anyone know of a good company that specializes in this? Thanks in advance Mike

Linda...you said you had lids for your Libbey cubes? Where do you get them?

Trying to offer something a little more contemporary. Been fighting with these square jars 3" X 3" across the flats, 4" diagonally. Single wicking I am trying ECO-10 ECO-12 and ECO-14's currently. All seem to have a torch burning, 1" to 1 1/4" flames. I dont like the flames that high. When I drop down below an ECO-10 it burns good for awhile then drowns out toward the middle. Thought about double wicking with ECO-6's. Not sure where to go next...frustrated. Using C3 with 6% FO with a little liquid dye. Anyone mastered the square jar?

I have recently ran into a couple people that I sold candles to that have scared me. One had a jar shatter on them the other complained that it burned too quickly. When I asked for the details, both were the same...they lit it and let it burn all day. I tested numerous times before putting these candles up for sale. I always watch my candles and maintain a good wick height while testing. Maybe I'm not idiot-proofing enough or I just assume that the candle burning instruction sheet I give to them will be read. But either way, I dont want to be responible for hurting someone regardless of their position in the food chain. Should I test my candles under the same circumstances before deciding they are good enough to sell...in other words, light 'em and let 'em do what ever? Or should I continue to maintain the wicks like we are supposed to. What wicks have the best "self trimming" characteristics? Quick over view...I currently use C3 straight up, 1zo FO to 1# wax, liquid dye. The recent issue was with 16oz Masons with single Eco-10 wicks. Any help from you veterans out there will be much appreciated.

Thanks....I saw that web page and kinda got the same impression after reading a little in the archives.

Anyone know where to buy the Pryme color dyes? Anyone used them before?

Thank you!

Ive got quite a few Masons left over for sale in the St Louis area if you are interested. I used to use Masons but have discontinued them from my line and have 8oz jellies, 8oz quilteds, and 16oz Masons. Let me know...

New guy here...Hello to all! I live in the St Louis area and cant find any candle suppliers locally other that St Louis Candle Supply and I can buy soy wax from Minn. shipped to my house cheaper than picking it up local. Anybody know of any suppliers within a few hours drive of St Louis? Also, I've mostly used Northstar's Ultra-Strong FO's and just recently found a few through Candle Science that are just as strong. All my customers want big time throw from their candles but the cost of Northstar's Ultra-Strongs are killing me...any suggestions on a less expensive high quality FO supplier? Thank you