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whisks

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  1. your soap looks gorgeous, vanessa!
  2. does anyone have FO recommendations for CP soaps from the natures garden range?
  3. i've tried both ways, but it only works well pouring the hot lye into RT oils if you can get all the solid oils to melt. using both lye and oils at room temperature takes to pressure off me to get everything timed well. both are good, but everything at RT is more of a relaxed way of soaping for me and takes very little effort. i keep thinking about doing HP but i don't know if i want to do all that stirring and squashing into moulds when all i do is pour and let the soap set at the moment. HP looks very tempting though.
  4. when people put their soaps in the freezer to prevent gel, saponification doesn't stop - the cold just prevents gel. ever since i started RTCP, every batch has traced beautifully and i've never had to do anything to prevent gel. if i want my soap to gel, i wrap a black towel around it and leave it in the sun. easy. i don't think it would hurt to try cooling the batter - nothing to lose.
  5. i can understand the cold water - i soap with room temperature oils and lye and find that i don't have problems tracing and more importantly, the mixture doesn't separate. i have only ever had a problem with separation once, and that was when i heated my mixture because it was taking so long to trace. i ended up having to HP the lot. i agree that a combination of oils can make a lovely soap, which will be much faster to trace.
  6. i don't think homemade is any cheaper than bought commercial soap, but it is so much nice to use and i agree that it is funner. if cost is an issue, don't use colour or fragrance as they can really add to the cost of the soap. i really recommend that you do the soaping once you hve the little ones settled in bed at night. have your oils measured in a pot to melt and have your lye mixed, cooled and safely set away. line your moulds if you need to as well. once the children are settled, you can make the soap. making the soap at night is also good if you are impatient - it give the soap time to set when you are asleep! good luck.
  7. hi darbla, thanks for the link. i wondered if ts pink was using MP. i haven't seen the soaps in real life, but have heard about them. i also hear that they are very long lasting, that's why i thought they might be more than MP. i've only made CP (and HP on accidental occassions - start off with CP but end up HPing the soap), but i think i might try out MP one of these days... thanks again.
  8. not working for me either.
  9. thanks, guys. facinating site, kitn, but where do i get all the bits from?
  10. forgive my ignorance, but what is a syndet shampoo bar and solid conditioner? and dare i ask, how are they made?
  11. kitn...you can't wait....i wonder how lost this thread will be once my soap is ready to use.....it's an ungelled cp....
  12. thanks dominion. i just followed what i read that people were doing and adding the salt at 1 tbsp ppo (to get a harder bar) and 1 tbsp ppo (to get more bubbles - i also use castor oil). i used the clay at 1 tbsp ppo as well, although i did her someone using a much higher ratio because he had so much clay at his disposal. the silk i used was about the size of a small cotton ball. honestly, i wished soap didn't take so long to cure - i can wait to try this one just to see what the clay and silk lend to it....
  13. i've tried both melting the oils with hot lye and having both lye and fats at room temperature and the turning point was when i tried to melt palm kernel oil with the hot lye. the hot lye does melt the PKO, but once the soap is made, it looks like sago soap with all the expanded PKO spheres. melting the PKO independently of the lye breaks the cell walls (or whatever) so the PKO blends into the rest of the mix so you can't see the little blobs through the soap. so for me, melting the oils separately works. to each, their own.
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