Teercreations

Um moniker? Clue me in what is that exactly?

Hey all dont know if any of you remember me been about 8 years since I made a candle or soap. Lots has happened of course two young boys 7 and 5, active duty, my disability battle with the Air Force and government to name a few things that have consumed me. I stilll havent dragged my old stuff out yet but have been contemplating it. We raise bees now so I have beeswax out the wazoo. I doubt I start any business back just because I dont think I can physically do it but I loved making soaps and candles for personal use. It made me ? and excited. Im sure you'll see me lurking around. Pam

hey diamond I got a nissan xterra wanna help drive....I am in Bham! Pam going to class will check back in tonight!

Ok I am about to place a large order for Shrink bags for my baskets that I make. These baskets have no handles and the largest is 7.25 inches in length -- width being 4 to 5 inches. So what size bag should I buy? I mean paper mart has lengths ranging from 6 to 20 inches and widths of 4 to 14 inches. I just want to make sure I get them big enough that I can seal one of the open ends and just shrink it. These baskets will generally hold a candle, 2 or 3 bars of soap and/or bath products. Anyone have any suggestions? Pam

Thanks guys I needed it....I was so tired of looking at websites with fragrance listings. Already ordered a sampler pack and enough Tinsled garland to make a batch of soap and test. Pam

Anyone have any suggestions on a FO. This would be for my father in law. He hunts and wants as he describes it "a soap that smells like crushed pine needles and bark on a tree." A regular pine scent is too strong for the soap even in minimal quantities. He doesnt want it to be a floral scent either..... My hubby just said to use doe urine and his dad would be happy but the thought is just nasty. So anyone have any suggestions on where to look, if any supplier has a particular fragrance that might work please let me know. Appreciate it! Pam

there is a supplier list up in the archives in the subforums.....I believe that list online lye suppliers. Just find the closest to you. Pam

I love mine also and I bought mine gently used also. Pam

Great burn and an excellent visual for those that are new and dont really understand what testing encompasses or what to look for.....in my opinion this should be stickied. Great pictures! Pam:D

Good job with it being your first.....scraps are scraps and can be used everywhere especially for the little ones. Its hard for them sometimes to use the big bars because their hands are so small. So these scraps should be perfect for them. For the bigger scraps or jagged edges try like the others said to roll or mush it in your hands to make balls. Wear gloves just in case the lye is still reacting because it wont hurt a whole lot while your rolling but it will itch and be red later, especially if you have sensitive skin. you can always get a grater and shave it up, make a new batch of soap and put the shavings in it for added color. Go to the store and get some freezer paper to line your molds. The wax side is the side that stays up....the paper side to the inside of the mold. Mylar if you have a hobby store nearby works for liner also. HTH Congrats on your first batch. Pam

beautiful very inspirational!!!

You can always try the thrift store. I can always find second hand cookware there...usually in good condition. Pam

I have to say damn that is some purty soap!!!! Pam

are you using any kind of water discount? I sometimes get ricing or extreme soap on a stick when I discount my water a great deal. I make logs of 40 oz normally which is about 12 bars for me. I rarely do slab anymore because its a B**ch to cut and make all the bars even. I love my cutter because I cant cut straight. I do make 10 pound batches all the time and split it 4 ways and then pour but it depends on which FO's I'm using (some behave and some dont). I normally superfat at 5% because I have always done that (creature of habit here). Pam

Sudsy all Vegtable by ....ok brain fart here....on the Miller web site! for a 40oz batch Canola oil 8.8 oz Coconut oil 12 oz Olive oil 12 oz Palm oil 7.2 oz I have changed this up many times subbing out Palm and Canola for other oils that match their properties and its a wonderful base recipe. HTH Pam

I have used it as high as 15 % but I cant remeber what color the bar was as I usually color all my soaps except a certain few fragrances. I didnt notice that it was sticky or anything bad about the soap. Pam

I love my cutter....soon you'll be making more soap than you can sell just to cut soap!

I use one cd 16 and/or cd 18 for my 16 oz apothecary's.....I test each fragrance all the way down to make sure it works going all the way down. Now I usually give it three or fours burns and if its not working I yank that puppy out and stick something else in. No point in burning all that wax it its not reaching the sides during the burning time period. HTH Pam

Ok I read however long ago someone posted a link that helps you build essential oil blends. I have looked all through my saved links and cant seem to have saved it.....does anyone have a clue about this link? Its basically a selection screen where you select the oils you have and it will see if there is a recipe in their database to try. Any help would be appreciated! Pam

Girl you truly amaze me......from cream soap to liquid soap. Wowzers! I admit the tutorial makes it look real easy but I think I will wait till I have a whole weekend to myself. good luck on tomorrow's batch! Pam

I have templates made at home that I have for 2.5 labels and 2 inch labels made in Avery Pro. Just pm me your email addy and see if those work. You can always just copy my page settings and margins and start your own design. Pam

Well I have tried micas and oxides in the past and mixing it is pain in the rear. I love my select shades. I usually use 1/16th of a tsp or 1/8 tsp for my parts and I still get vibrant wonderful colors.

yall understand that Catherine Failors book is short and sweet....but I have never heard of any of her recipes like monstrously failing. Meaning that the soap goes through the stages if you let it....I know many of you want to get your cooked soap and just add water immediately....don't let it sit a week and stir everyday. It will go through those stages naturally if you have followed her recipe. I suggest that whatever method you use oven, or crockpot or stovetop that you test after every 30 minutes at least. Because of the different temperatures of everyone's oven its difficult to tell how long you should cook the soap. I can cook my soap in my crock pot for an hour and its done....other people in other parts of the country with different temperatures can cook for 1 hour and a half and their soap is done. Plus there are other factors like how long you leave your lid to your pot on before you stir, how often you stir, etc... Sorry to say that every variable is important. So test and take lots of notes.

ok after the cook...and its sat for a few days. You can add more liquid to get the soap to where its mostly liquid. OR thin enough to fit in those bottles. Just understand that after the cook its supposed to go through stages where its hard, then softens, then softens some more to where its like taffy. If you add the water or juice after the taffy stage you can control how liquid it becomes. If it stays hard as a rock and doesnt really want to turn into taffy add about an ounce of water a day and stir/mix At the hard as a rock stage I wouldnt suggest using a hand mixer or anything --- as it might burn up the motor. HTH Pam

ok I have to admit the cucumber soap sounds like a dream --- but I am a huge fan of cucumber soap! So Bunny I will be watching this thread a whole bunch to see what others like about em all too! Oh yeah whats the shelf life on soap with food in it? Pam