BLSoaps

https://www.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_ship-now Log into your account, then go to this link. This will pull up a blank shipping section. You can ship to anyone. I use this ALL the time. It's the 1st listing in my bookmarks!

I use the 8 oz (?) canning jars. And keep one jar for each flavor. I just cap it, label it, and store it. It completely eliminates clean up, something I LOVE!!!

1000 pixel is probably the largest you want to go. Most of mine are around 500. But if you use a large picture, when it shrinks it for the thumbnail, the quality isn't going to be very good. There's a "Save for Web" feature in my program that I use for my photos. I don't know exactly what it does, but it's made a huge difference in how the picture looks ON the website. It's in there, as well, that I adjust the photo sizes.

If you don't have a policy in place for this already, you won't be able to do anything regarding this order unless you've already shipped it. If you've shipped it, then I'd simply tell her that, and let her know the order can't be canceled at this point. As for putting a policy into place for future incidents, most places allow to cancel within a certain time frame, such as 24 hours, with a % restocking fee. Example: Orders may be canceled within 24 hours of ordering, but will be charged a 25% restocking fee. I'd base your time frame on your typical turn around time for shipping. I try to keep most everything I ship on hand in small quantities, so I can ship as early as same day, but it's typically the next day. If you're being commissioned for any kind of custom work, then get at least a 50% non-refundable deposit, and make sure you always state that it is a non-refundable deposit. As for the rest, yeah, it sucks, but it's also part of doing business. People are used to big box stores who pretty much take back anything they ask them to. But they have a much larger loss percentage built into their bottom line than we do.

I've never seen anyone that offers them that small in small quantities. Companies like boxcoop.com offers them, but they specialize in custom printing the boxes (you can get plain tho), but also have huge minimums.

Actually, if anything, the Aloe Vera Juice will be HARDER to preserve than using just water in a lotion. Whenever I make a lotion that has anything other than water as the, well, water portion, I always use the highest recommended percentage of the preservative I'm using.

Sharon, my husband doesn't clean. Much. If he did, my house wouldn't be as terrifying as it is right now. I've been stuck in the lab for what seems like months (with occasional freedom breaks to come visit ya'll here ). I SHOULD be using this current break to go move the laundry, or unload the dishwasher so I can run another load tonight. But I'm resting my feet, my back, and my brain, before starting on the next set of lotions. Sigh... I love it, I do. But I am looking forward to this weekend. I'm going to take a few well deserved work days off. Granted I still have Thanksgiving and TWO birthdays to do (my younger two boys are turning 4 and 5 this weekend! :party:), so rest isn't exactly on the to-do list, but I'm still looking forward to lots of family time! As for my soap fairies, they haven't completely left. I did 5 different batches this morning. From looking at them in the molds, the colors aren't exactly right. I'm hoping my Cucumber Melon just isn't done changing. When I poured, it was pretty much teal green. Then it paled out as it sat in the mold. Now it's more blue than green. Wish I'd been taking pics. On another soap, the swirls look great, but the yellow is softer than I intended. It was a nice bright yellow in the pot, but looks nearly white in the mold against the navy and charcoal gray (not quite black... I'm still scared of gray suds). Then one overheated a little and I've got a small heat crack down the middle. But other than that, it's behaving as expected. The other two batches turned out nicely as far as I can tell. Update on my non-discoloring Chocolate Mint. Some of it is discoloring, so it now just looks dirty. I have NO idea what is going on with that soap, except that I'm making it again tomorrow and hoping it turns out right this time. I may add a little cocoa or brown oxide to help it along, just in case. So I may send them all along to you, Grumpy, just to get rid of the fairies!

I just ordered a bunch from Herbco.com (Monterey Bay Spice Company). They have smaller 1/4 lb sizes, which is nice for trying things out. They do have a $20 minimum order requirement, or a $5 small order fee. It just encouraged me to add a few more goodies to my box! I was very very pleased with the service, the shipping times. Everything was well packaged. I haven't tried everything out yet, but I've had a blast with the things that I have used!

They're multiplying then. I had them end of last week. Had a Mint Chocolate soap that DIDN'T discolor. So it's green and YELLOW. Nasty combo. Smells Delish, so I guess I've got a lot of yummy soap for personal use. And my mom always willingly takes my Fairy Soap as well. Had another batch go south as well. So instead of pouring several more batches that day, I just put away all my soap supplies, and took the weekend off. I prepped for 5 batches Saturday morning, but ran out of time (baby shower to go to before I got them poured). I went to go pull the lye off the top shelf this morning, and only have 2 of the 5 jars. I'm still waiting on my hubby to call me from work (I've left a message) so I can chew him out. These were small specialty batches, so I just used quart sized mason jars to measure out my lye. He also likes to use these for drinking glasses. I am SOOO behind on dishes, don't look at my dining room table! My kitchen is in lab mode. So if they're not in the dishwasher, they're piled in a different room! LOL! :embarasse My laundry is in the same state.... I'll clean my house in January! Anyway, apparently he decided it was easier to dump several of these, and clean those, instead of walk 8 feet into the other room and grab one of those to clean off the table. He KNOWS this is lye. He knows it's dangerous. I usually keep my jars separate from his drinking ones (not that he realizes this), because when I clean them after using them, they go into my storage room. But what really pissed me off, when he dumped the lye down the drain, he poured it over a sink full of dishes, including one of my favorite cooking pots. Non-stick ALUMINUM pan. It's totally ruined. So he not only cost me the lye, the time, he also cost me a pot that we use constantly. Usually he's insanely understanding, and helpful, so this one has totally thrown me for a loop. What he did cost us quite a bit of money (probably $40 to replace everything), and was incredibly dangerous for me to clean up after. I had that nasty white coating from the lye on EVERYTHING in that sink. So at the moment, I'd rather have soap fairies than my stupid husband. (well, he's not stupid, but he certainly acted stupid) But unfortunately have both. Can I send all of them to you Grumpy????

Many of you posted in this thread that you refer people HERE to CT when asked for formulas, techniques, etc.... Makes one wonder how this person came to join CT, vent, and only post in this thread.... :tiptoe: That said, I agree with much of what has been said. While I don't make candles, I've been asked many times over the years variations of 'give me your formula'. Or tell me exactly what to do, how, when, where, why..... Sometimes on things I don't make (the latest has been reed diffusers, which I don't make). I politely push them in directions to research for themselves. I've never asked for anyone to give me a formula. There are soooo many out there already posted (here and elsewhere on the web). Start with those, then tweek to make it completely your own once you're comfortable.

I tried this, and ended up with a solid mass of oxide at the bottom of my bottles, and mostly clear glycerin at the top. It completely separated for me. I just pull aside a small amount of oil, and blend it with that right before I add it to my soap. I haven't had specks in my soaps in quite a while using this method. Oh, if the colorant is being used in the whole batch, I add the oxide to my oils before the lye, and blend it several times with a stick blender. It works well for me.

I agree with the other comments about only sending this out on request. But there are some other changes I hope you don't mind my recommending. I'm going to put my comments in BOLD, and hope it comes through right! LOL! It's been a long day, so we'll see! Wholesale Accounts While most of my business is geared towards retail customers, I do welcome the opportunity to work with wholesalers who would like to buy in bulk in order to offer my products in their stores, on their websites, etcetera. This made you sound like a complete novice to wholesaling. If you are, that's fine, but don't advertise it. If you sound competent and professional, then you'll be treated as such. If they think they can take advantage of you because you're new to wholesaling, then they will. It also made me think that you care more about your retail customers than your wholesale customers. If I had been a potential wholesale buyer, this would have turned me off. I am willing to offer a 40-50% discount on any product I currently sell. By using the term 'willing', it sounds like your pricing is negotiable. It also sounded a little condescending, like you're doing THEM a favor by offering that discount, when it should be automatic. I feel that the benefits of selling wholesale can be multiple for all parties involved. Huh? I have carefully considered every aspect of selling my candles, both wholesale and retail, and after experimenting with the idea, I have come up with some policies regarding wholesaling my candles. This again reinforced you sounding like a novice. Like the idea to wholesale is brand new to you. I'd just cut this paragraph all together. 1. For me, one large benefit of wholesaling (not needed) my products to retailers is to sell in bulk, thus I must receive a minimum order of $100 in order to offer my goods wholesale. Too much, Keep it Simple. Minimum Opening Order: $100 Minimum Reorder: $XXX. 2. Another benefit is notoriety. My candles will go into other people's shops and homes. That being said, I am reluctant to do private labeling, or to allow those who purchase my candles to place their own labels on my products. One must understand that it takes hard work and years of dedication to learn how to make a great product, and that recognition of said hard-work and dedication is the right of the chandler. I do, therefore, require that my labels be used when reselling, in order to obtain the maximum 50% wholesale discount. On the private labeling, decide one way or the other. You DO or you DON'T. At the moment, you simply sound wishy washy. Private label is a big thing though. I don't know the policies with candles, but B&B, if we do the packaging, the label still needs to state that it was manufactured by Company XYZ (us) in Anytown, UT, USA. However, that said, I offer both. I honestly don't care which they choose. If it's my label, and they meet all my minimums (total order cost, and product minimums), then they get 50% off my retail prices. Private Label gets 40% off. If I design the label, they pay for that also. If you decide to do private label, and need more help setting it up, let me know. 3. Should a customer desire a wholesale order for products that will not carry my labels, the label they create must include "made by Violet's Exotic Candles in Kinderhook, NY." At no time should any reseller claim the candles were made by anyone but me. 4. For private labeling with no recognition whatsoever, I will only offer a 40% discount on retail pricing. In addition, the minimum order requirement is $150. See above for notes 5. Once an agreement is reached between the wholesaler (Violet's Exotic Candles) and the reseller or retailer, it is considered legally binding. This agreement can be made either via email or mail, or in person; whatever method used, it is legally binding. 6. Once an agreement is reached, a 50% downpayment is required, with a promissory note signed and notarized (I would have taken off at this point. This is so far out of the norm, I wouldn't bother. I'd find someone else to buy from) by the other party, promising to pay the remaining balance due, once the order has been completed, prior to delivery or shipment. The downpayment is non-refundable. 6.a. Once an agreement is reached and the downpayment is made, resellers have 3 business days to cancel their order. Should they cancel their order within that time period, the downpayment will not be refunded, as supplies will have already been ordered for the specific order placed by the reseller. If an order is cancelled following 3 business days, a 25% restocking fee will apply towards the total balance, in addition to the non-refundable deposit. This was incredibly confusing to me all together. I'd advise simplifying things by simply requiring payment in full up front. If you really want to offer half down, then here's a suggestion... 50% deposit, non-refundable. IMO, this is more than enough to guarantee them not going through with their order. The 25% restocking fee on top of the non-refundable deposit, way too much. I know you want to guarantee that people don't pull out on their orders, but there really isn't any way to do that. Remaining balance is due when the product is completed, packaged and ready to ship. But you don't ship until the remaining balance, plus the shipping, is paid for. Personally, I require payment in full up front, then invoice for exact shipping when the order is ready. Although I really liked the idea of requiring a UPS acct to do 3rd party shipping. I like that idea a lot. It would make things a lot easier. My accounts are used to full payment up front, and don't ask for anything different, but good solid accounts, if they asked for some variation in the payment, I'd offer the 50% down, and 50% due when shipped. If you do anything custom, require payment in full up front for those, non refundable for the full amount. 7. All wax and fragrance oils used, suppliers I obtain them from, wick/wax and fragrance oil combinations, are considered trade secrets and may not be copied. Any violation of this may result in legal action on my part. I don't think this is needed. You sounded paranoid to me. :undecided If it comes up, then tell them that. If you would like to sample my products prior to deciding whether or not you would like to retail them, you are more than welcome to order at retail cost. I recommend buying tarts, as they will give you an idea of what scents you will be receiving and are cost-effective, as well. I would perhaps offer to them to then discount this purchase from their wholesale order should they decide to purchase with you. It's a nice courtesy, and lessens the 'blow' of purchasing at retail prices. Okay, there's a lot in there. If you want any more help, or even someone to look over a final draft later, feel free to send it to me. I've rewritten mine several times, cuz my old computer kept crashing, and I am the absolute worst about keeping track of my back up disks. Which is why I print everything. Hard copies are my best friend.... Just ask my desk which is groaning under the weight of several stacks of filing to do . I was supposed to file this weekend, then David (hubby) ruined that by fracturing his wrist at work, so I've been playing nursemaid, chauffeur (he's on Oxycodone, and definitely can't drive .... it's been a fun weekend... But he feels good! The combo of the Oxy with the anti-inflammatories has him feeling *super banana*)

4 oz bottles has ALWAYS been my best seller. Only repeat business typically will ask for anything larger. And smaller was just to difficult price wise. I've always used natural HDPE bottles (not malibus) with disk caps, and never had a problem with squeezability. I made the decision originally to go with bottles over malibus because of labeling issues. Unless the malibus are screen printed, the labels always seem to either be a major PITA, or flat out don't look good. I've always been able to get a much more professional looking label on a bottle, rather than a malibu. It's the PET bottles that aren't squeezable. Any of the _DPEs will be squeezable (H, M or L - High, Medium and Low Density). The H is the least squeezable, the L the most squeezable. But high levels of FO or EO will eat the plastic, especially on the L & M, so HDPE is what is usually recommended. I've only used MDPE on small sample bottles, just because you need it more squeezy so you can get the goods out! LOL! Okay, I need to go before my spell check flags any more versions of squeeze in this post! LOL!

Just a tip, you don't want to heat and cool your base each time you need it. The more temperature fluctuations your oils are exposed to, the faster the oils break down and go rancid. I'd recommend making your base, then scooping what you need out into another container to melt it. Then keep the rest of your base in the fridge, or a cool place. Some recipes have a tendency to separate a little while cooling (usually the harder part staying at the top.... the beeswax tends to 'float' in the oils.... same concept). If your recipe is prone to this, stirring your base while it cools will help with this. Or if this doesn't work, then make a master batch, and pour into smaller containers, your batch sizes, so you can just grab the size you need. For containers, I've been able to successfully pour into HDPE jars. The PET jars melt under the heat, and you'll have a monster mess on your hands. Ask me how I know....

First, can I ask why you'd buy a SPRAY lotion base (it has to be thin to be sprayable) only to want to thicken it to a regular lotion consistency (or more)? Sorry, I'm just not seeing the logic in that at all... However, it CAN be done, but you're going to mess up the preservative system, and it's not going to be a simple fix. If you're really wanting it a normal lotion or cream consistency, simply adding some butter isn't going to thicken it up much. And if you add enough that it does thicken, you're probably going to need more emulsifier, & definitely need more preservative. But unless the manufacturer is willing to tell you the usage rate they used for the preservative, you won't know how much you'll need to add to have it covered. Also, if you add a butter, you'll need to melt the butter, you'll also need to warm the lotion base, otherwise, you'll end up with a gritty lotion because the butter will solidify when it's poured into the cold base. If you heat the base, you also run the risk of compromising the current preservative system. So, yes, it CAN be done, but probably shouldn't be. Not unless you know quite a bit about making lotion. And I'm guessing if you did, you probably would be making your own, and not buying a base. Sorry for being 'negative' about it. Just being realistic. It's MUCH easier to make a thick lotion thinner than to thicken a thin lotion. There are some thickening products out there that you could try, but you'll still have the preservative issues.