Googs

I'm currently using IGI 1343 with 1 tsp Vybar 103 per pound added, and 2-3 Tbs of stearic acid per pound. I also use IGI 4625, and I'm getting ready to experiment with container wax here in the near future. I'm sorry my math was incorrect. But I think most people would understand what I was getting at. I'm sorry if I didn't know the exact amount of grams that are in an ounce. Once again a newbie mistake. I'm just trying to learn here, isn't what this site is for? Thanks, Scott (confused)

Newbie still figuring things out. I've been doing a lot of research in the archives, and my own math. What I don't quite understand is just about everyone says that 1oz pp of F/O works well and gives good scent throw. When I do the math for 10% per pound (16oz) it comes to 1.6 (1 ounce 6 grams). I would assume that 1 1/2 oz pp @ 10% pp would be acceptable to get the most fragrance from your molded candle. Is this correct or am I just doing the math wrong? I know this has been discussed a lot and it gets tiring for the members to constantly here about this from the newbies. I would greatly appreciate your advice! TIA Scott :embarasse

I've been reading all the recent threads about heat guns. I went to Home Depot and purchased a Milwakee Heat Gun. It was about $10 more than going to Wal-Mart which was right next door. Does anyone know if this brand is more durable? This is the first one I've purchased, I needed something to clean a 12" pillar mold. It wouldn't fit in my oven

Trish, Thank you for the offer! I just might take you up on it! I guess I haven't been a CT member long enough or I don't have my settings correct. I can't pm you. I don't know if it's proper to put my email address in the thread. This is the only community I've ever belonged to on the internet:embarasse Let me know ! Scott

THANK YOU Country Candlemaker, Cierra has just about what I'm looking for!!!! I really appreciate you writing a reply to my thread. I will give them a try! Breanna I've been taking notes on every little thing I do, whether bad or good! Candleman thanks for the response. As a matter of practice I test everything I make. Even if I'm just going to give a candle as a gift I want it to be the best quality possible. Thanks, Scott

I'm just starting to ge my feet wet in making conatiner candles. I've been ALL over the web looking and pricing glass jars. I know it basically hinges on personal taste. What are your opinions on how much wax the jar can hold and what is the best shape to work with? I'm thinking of using IGI 4630, the guidelins say you don't need to used additives. but I was thinking of puting in Vybar 260 just to get that little extra scent throw! What do you'all think? Scott

I've put 1tsp vybar 103 and 3 Tbs of stearic acid per pound and have come up with a great candle. I'm still experimenting...you should to! You'll find out some interesting things!

What I'm trying to understand is...if you use one presto for each wax, and you have wax in it most of the time (I think people do this?) Is there a way to protect the scale? Does this make sense? Thanks, Scott

I've ordered my presto pots. I've been reading and reading all the information available on this site. I haven't decided yet whether to mix the F/O and color in the Presto or mix it in the pour pot. I do use a digital scale. My question is how do you weigh the melted wax in a hot pour pot without damaging the plastic on the digital scale? What kind of barrier should you use to protect something that you don't want to replace often because of cost? (digital scales aren't that cheap!) Sorry for the kinda dumb question, I'm still learning! Thanks Scott PS I know there have been a lot of discussions lately about Presto Pots and I really do appreciate it !!!!

I'm having a heck of a time leveling off my candles. I've tried cookie sheets over boiling water, a non stick fry pan on medium heat, and a knife. I know the knife is not a good idea but I was trying to see if it would work. What do the esteemed members of this board suggest? I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks, Scott

I'm still new to this also! But I've found vybar to be quite usefull. It definately helps with the F/O retention, it helps the fragrance bond with the wax. I'm still finding places to get fragrance oils. Peak has a lot of very good ones. The way I understand the ration is 1/2 oz. by weight for standard paraffin. I have used 2 tsp of vybar 103 in IGI 1343 straight paraffin wax with 1 1/2 oz of F/O and haven't seen sweating. But that doesn't mean that it won't happen. It's been pretty much trial and error on my experiments. Peak's web site has a good wick page that explains the sizes very well. I haven't done container candles yet. That is on my to do list. Good luck, Googs

Thank You for your replies. I really appreciate the advice all of you give me! Thanks, Scott

What type of liability insurance is required? Thanks Scott

I've been making my candles for personal use. I gave a few to the pharmacy that I go to last week. I just went in, and they said they were wonderful! The owner asked if I was selling them? It is a thought I've had. How feasable is this in the market right now? Thanks Scott

I'm still experimenting, I'll receive my first order of 1343 on tuesday. My stupid question is, Why is necessary to prime a wick? I haven't been doing it, and my candle are burning very nicely! If I need do this, is it necessary to do the whole wick or just a few inches? Thanks for you help! Scott

I'm not sure what RRD's are? Sorry I don't know, still learning the lingo!

Thanks Candle Man, that makes sense! I guess I've been lucky today, haven't had a blow out. But I could see where that would happen. This is the second candle I made from this wax. In the first one I used a 30ply flat braid wick. It hardley even melted the wax. Luckily I had ordered a 36 ply in my initial order from peak. The guidelines for the wax just said to use a larger than normal wick, which 30 is. But the 36 is melting it properly. Candybee, I used vanilla. I know that's boring but it reminds me of when I was a kid. Thanks for the compliment! Scott

At the time of the picture it has been burning for 8 hours......:undecided Candle Man, please excuse my ignorance, why should you not burn a candle longer than 3 hours? The scent throw seems to be better when it's been longer. Does that make sense? Thanks for you guidance! Scott

This is Crystalizing Wax from Yaley's. Some call it Palm Wax. I was just wondering if it's burning correctly. This is the first time I've lit one! I let it cure for three days. Thanks! Scott

I've tried primary yellow 6drops and 3 drops of coffee. It's a subdued golden color!

I just ordered 1343. When it gets here I can hopefully get the effects I've been trying for! Thanks for all of your responses. It's been very helpful! Scott

I used 4625, So I guess that means that whatever I add to it, it won't do anything. That's fine for regular candles and the like. I've been trying to achieve different looks. As soon as 1343 arrives I'll be ordering it!! Thanks, Scott PS Just went to Peaks site after I posted this. 1343 is in and I ordered it. Once it arrives I'll be able to experiment with different effects.

1.10 lb. wax, 3tbs Mineral Oil, 1 1/2 F/O, First Poor 190, 2nd 195. Is this correct? The only thing I notice is a very nice shine to the candle. Any help would be appreciated! Scott

1.12lbs Wax, 3tbs Stearic Acid, 1 1/2 oz.F/O, 1st Poor 160, 2nd 165. I'm still not getting any effect. Am I still doing it wrong? Thanks, Scott

Thanks Everito, I'm sure that the 4625 has vybar in it. But I'll experiment and see what happens.