tyru007

Sorry I haven't been around the forums in a while. I created the spreadsheet and it is free for anybody on this forum to use. I created a basic copy of the spreadsheet and then with everyones input from this site, it is now at its current version. If anyone finds errors, please let me know. It does require MS Excel. I'm glad everyone has found it usefull. Sorry Vicky, I did receive your email but must have had a brain spasm and forgot to reply. We consolidated our domain name and I haven't had a chance to update the links yet. Here is an updated link to the Spreadsheet: http://www.cakes-of-joy.com/Pics/Wax%20Batch%20SheetV3a.xls Save it off to your computer and use it freely. Best Regards

We have been using ECO wicks in most of our candles. In the past they have worked great. Using CB-Pure/BW or combo in a 8 oz metro/status jar with #10 ECO. Latley the candles have a good flame and melt pool with no mushroom on the first burn, but drown out on the second burn. The wick after the first burn is a stub about 1/8 to 1/4". This is a self trimming wick but we have never had this issue before. Any suggestions?

We have tried and like the CB-Pure for some of our candles. It is a difficult wax and tends to frost but the scent thows are very good. The last batch of CB-Pure that ew got acted a little wierd. The wax was harder than normal with a MP about 8 deg higher than is published with an almost glossy appearance. The wax also required wicking up on the new batch. Definitly a QC problem. I would recommend going to Golden Brands 415 if you want to try out a pure soy wax.

We started with a votive wax, but found it a little hard and brittle so we added a lower melting point soy container wax. Makes it a little creamier and softer.

I have also made a slotted slab mold to try out. Here's what I find: Logs molds tend to hold the heat better than slab mold. Slab molds are easier to stack. You need to pour slab molds at a much thinner trace to get a uniform thickness than you do with a log mold. Thus a log mold tends to give you a much more uniform a flat bar all the way around. However, sometimes having one side bumpy tends to give the soap a little character Harder to get the soap out of the log mold compared to slab molds, unless the log mold can be taken apart or broken down. It's easier to line a slab mold. The springs are standard door springs from any hardware store. Just note that this is not an easy mold to make. Each part is slotted and routered to fit together at right angles with tolerance so as to be liquid tight without having to pound together each part.

Unmolding is very quick. I tried several methods for lining this mold. I tried making a freezer paper liner, but this was a lot of effort and tended to sag into the mold and i didn't want to grease the sides to get it to stay. Simplest method was to stretch a piece of plastic wrap over each of the side pieces and tape. Then lay a single piece of plastic wrapover the bottom and two ends. When you put the side pieces in the grooves and pull up the ends pieces, the bottom and ends stretch and smooth and all the joints tighten up and are liquid tight. Takes only about 1 minute to line the mold. No forms, no measuring, no cutting and pasting/taping, no greasing the inside.

Added Another Pic showing the breakdown and a first soap. I undercalced the amount of oils it would hold so I didn't have enough to make full bars.

Must be the engineer in me, but I always have to find a little different way to do stuff. Two springs hold the whole mold together and takes about 10 seconds to put together/take apart. Everything is slotted to be liquid tight. Pine was little soft, so I made it out of oak. Already made two batches in it and works very well.

Need some experienced soapers to test out a beta of a soap calculation spreadsheet and find any mistakes I've made so that I can correct. Spreadsheet is similar to Soapcalc. I have gone through most of the SAP values and verified(corrected a few) based on publishes data from a few supply companies. You will need Excel or a similar product to use the spreadsheet (sorry). http://www.enchantedforestproducts.com/Pics/Soap%20Calculator.xls Spreadsheet should be considered beta at this time and all values should be verified using a second soap calculator or hand calculations. Please post any comments, issues, mistakes, feedback so that I can make corrections. All my computers are firewalled and I run about 5 different virus/adware/malware programs to make sure they stay that way.

I've tested the 464 and really wanted to like. You can pour it hot and get a decent looking candle. I always got varied amounts of frosting with each candle, even in the same batch, side by side. Always seemed to get frosting of the bottom of the jar and a little on the sides. I liked the wicking but I found that the 464 was almost too soft with a mushy texture that I just didn't like that much. I will probably keep experimenting with it. The 415 is a pure soy and very similar to CB-Pure.

We use pure soy wax and it is definitly a pain to wick. ECO wicks are great, except in the larger jars. They seem to drown out easily. Definitly a single ECO will not work in a 16 oz Apoth candle of Soy. I've tried both ECO 14 and an HTP 1312 single wicked and they both will not give you a full melt pool. I got close using 464 due to the low melt point, but not 415 or Ecosoya CB-Pure.

We put the BCS Fresh Blueberry on the melter last night and still does nto smell like blueberries. Thanks for the suggestions. We're going to order some samples and keep looking.

Looking for a true blueberry scent. We live in Maine and therefore we must carry a blueberry scent. (if we could find a moose scent we would carry that too) I've done a search and ordered a sample of Fresh Blueberry from BCS, but does not smell anything like true blueberry smell oob. Looking for a blueberry without the sweetness or bakery smell

I thought I would put a link to a thread about spreadsheets for use in calculating wax, FO and additives for a batch of wax. Listed it in the vegi wax forum but can also be used for any wax. http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27805 Anyone else have any usefull spreadsheets, forms, etc that they would like to contribute?

We use a Epson Stylus CX5400 (the most rescent version is the CX6600). This is an all in one printer with scanner, copier and printer. I've seen the CX6600 for about $99. We like is because the ink cartidges are large and individual. We purchase off-brand ink which is much less expensive and does very well.

We use the ziplocks. Customers seem to like them a lot more since they are reclosable. Worth the extra few cents a bag.

If your test pages are printing OK but your label sheets dont seem to be printing the same way, then the problem is more likley with the way your printer in handling the paper stock. We use a photo type printer to print lables since photo printers are built to handle thick stocks of glossy paper and have much better edge of paper detection and alignment.

Most of the online label stores have them

Do you want a spreadsheet to calculate the % or the weight of fragrance oil to add to a batch of candle wax? If you want to know how much to add to a batch of wax: Total Weight of Candle Wax (in oz) * % of Fragrance Oil = Weight of FO to Add (in oz) example: 1 lb 8 oz Total Wax = (1 lb x 16 oz/lb) + 8 ounces = 24 oz total wax 24 oz * 6%/100 = 1.44 oz of FO 24 oz - 1.44 oz FO = 22.56 oz wax If you want to know how much % in a batch: % FO = Amount of FO added (oz)/Total Batch Weight (oz) *100% example: 1.44 oz FO / 24 oz total batch weight * 100% = 6% FO 22.56 oz Wax / 24 oz total batch weight * 100% = 94% Wax

We use a inkjet printer for these with a vinyl label that is water resistant once the ink dries. Applying these can be a little tricky since they cannot be repositioned and are subject to air bubbles if your not carefull.

These are made with a blend of soy pillar wax with natural additives and pure soy wax. If you use just container blend 100% soy wax, then it will not release from the packaging

I recently tried a universal soy additive from KY Candle at 3% in Ecosoya CB-Pure. Definitely an emulsifier and raises the congealing/melting point of the candle wax. The wax starts to set up about 125* and takes on a very white appearance making it difficult to get solid looking colors. My best results were pouring the wax at 160*. Tops were rough but flat and the wax is very milky looking with some internal mottling. The wax has a strange granular texture when you dig into it. Seemed to burn OK.

Thanks for all the great advice: I have tried a mixture of a pillar blend soy wax with the pure (same combo we use for our tarts), which exhibits very little frosting. The candle looks very good with minimal frosting and no wet spots, because it has pulled completely away from the jar. The only problem in a straight sided jar is that the wax moves around in the jar and rattles when you shake it. Otherwise, the candle looks and burns great. I am going to try cooling slower possibly in the oven or in an insulated cooler. For some reason, I get more frosting when I add 2-3% beeswax. On the plus side, the BW makes the tops flatter (although a get a small circular crack), the jars are easier to wick and burn a little better, and the top look better after a burn. I have also been experimenting with tempering/seeding to promote selective formation of denser crystaline structures in the wax. I have been able to create a seeding material out of another wax to add to the soy wax to promote the growth of a denser crystal structure. I've poured this mixture into a couple of warmed 16 oz apothacarys with no wick. The candles looks very good with a few small spots of internal macro crystals and some frosting on the top (likely where the wax had cooled too quickly) and a little on the bottom (where it was in contact with a cool surface). The most notable characteristic was that the candle wax was harder than other candles I have poured using the same wax. The candle had a good dip (about 1/4") in the middle but the texture was fairly smooth with no cracks. I'll try to post a pic later. I'm going to try some controlled cooling as my next experiment. Mu-HA-HA-HA I'm still looking for a wax that I can just heat and pour with good results without resorting to a parasoy blend. I've ordered some samples of the GB 464 and 415 to also experiment with.

I've been testing in glassware for a couple of months so far. Using Ecosoya CB-Pure in Apoths and metro/status jars (frosted and clear). I have tried w/ and w/o BW at 2% to 4% and at temps from slushy at 100 deg to 115 deg F . I warmed the jars and also tested them at room temp. Most have pulled away from the glass to some extent. Actually the best looking one so far was just the CB with no additives poured a little above slushy at about 105 deg. However, wicking was terrible. Any suggestion without going to a parafin blend to get better adhesion with the glass and reduce wet spots. The wicking I can contiue to do battles with. Or am I just being too critical. Also want to add that we registered our domain the other day and hopefully will have a web site up soon for email and pictures. May actually sell a candle after about a year of testing.:rolleyes2 At least I get a good tax break.

Although I don't use the CD wicks, I have found that using a single large wick in a 3" container tends to burn off the FO using pure soy and prevent a good hot throw. You might try two smaller wicks and see if your hot throw improves. A strong thrower for me from Peaks in 100% soy have been the Black Rasp Vanilla and Jamaica me crazy. Haven't tried any JS yet.