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Tjwaversano

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  1. Tjwaversano
    In addition to the subject, I was wondering if there is a compendium or something similar on which FO's (and which companies) tend to throw well in coco 83. I know this can be seen as a loaded question as coco 83 formulas differ from manufacturer to manufacturer but I was wondering if there is a general "consensus" based on the commonly used ingredients in the wax? I currently use coco 83 from hive and honey which uses beeswax in its formula. P.S.: Is there any literature anyone would recommend to REALLY get into the science of hot throw?
  2. Tjwaversano
    What temp would you recommend to pour fragrance on this blend? I roughly get to 190 to 195 F from the convective cooling caused by the stirring
  3. Tjwaversano
    Appreciate the responses! Definitely working on the new mix as we speak
  4. Tjwaversano
    Also, by CDN do you mean CD or is there a derivative called CDN?
  5. Tjwaversano
    Ah good to know about the stearic in 487! I definitely need to be more detailed in my research on these wax/wax additive compositions. I figured I was adding maybe one to many solids. Any idea as as to the weird, almost powder like spongy/elastic consistency on the top? saw this on one other small make candle in store and the cold throw was incredible
  6. Tjwaversano
    So as the title implies, I am testing the burn properties and hot throw of a coco 83, stearic and S &P 487 mix candle in 16oz white frosted glass jars (~4.5" in diameter and 3 inches tall with no bottle neck, just a wise open top). The ratios are 10% stearic, 25% S and P, 8% FO and 57% coco 83. FO added at 205 F, stirred for 30 to 45 seconds, and poured/cured overnight at 190 F in a hot (roughly 91 to 93 F garage) and humid (58 to 80% humidity) environment. I am using hive and honey coco83 wax (contains beeswax as per the manufacturer) and letting the candles cure a week before burning. The hot throw is very sub par for a 16 oz candle. I tested 4 scents and the best throw by far was a CD 7 wicked candle with approx 2.3" diam melt pool during the first 4 hour burn which filled a room roughly 24' x 30 ft' relatively well (not overpowering but just right it seemed) with a slight air current from a ceiling vent. The same candle with a large, non whisper wood wick generated very little throw in a small bathroom (10' by 8'). I had one 3 wicked Cd 4 that performed poorly and one two wicked cd 4 that performed poor to moderate in smaller rooms. I Know the wood wick is just far too much and is burning too hot so I may move down to a small but I fell like I might just be at that challenging point of trying to do the delicate balancing act all new to intermediate candle makers experience. Note: candles cured with a weird, almost powder like spongy consistency on the top. The wax wasn't soft per say but almost with a little bit of elasticity when pressed before actually deforming .
  7. Tjwaversano
    As the title implies, I frequently have issues with blemishes, darkened/smudgy areas and white spots after pulling my concrete jars from the mould. I thought the white spots at first may have been efflorescence but they look more like "chips" in the paint or like something hit the jar (which it did not). Similarly, I sometimes see dark/smudgy areas on the jar. I figured this may just be excess moisture that would eventually dry out but, after about a week and a half or more, they still remain. It seems as if finger oils will stain the concrete when pressed hard enough, but I don't think it is due to my fingers as I am wearing nitrile gloves when handling. Finally, the bottom of the jars just look terrible with that saturated color on the bottom. I always mix quite well (powder in the dry cement all and, when water is added, until milkshake/smoothie like consistency) for 2+ more minutes and when initially poured, the bottom is of uniform color. Perhaps the dye is lighter and tends to diffuse to the surface? In addition to this, here are a couple of variables: 1. I live in a very hot and humid environment and create/cure my jars out in the garage with no temp control. Temperatures at night (when I do my work) normally range from 85 F to 92 F~ 2. Dyes used are Color Rare 3. Water used is distilled 4. Jars allowed to initially cure for 4 hours before removing the mould. Any and all help with this matter would eb greatly appreciated!
  8. Tjwaversano
    As the title suggests, when removing my colored cement jars from their moulds I se smudges that look sometimes like fingerprints and sometimes just like general blotches. I do expect some discoloration and dark spots as the cement continues to dry, however, these tend to stay around even after 4 to 5 days of drying. The blotches in question are not light in color and do not come from water as I use distilled water. Any clues as to what these are /how to get rid of these?
  9. Tjwaversano
    All, As the title suggests, if the wax is heated past its melting point and kept at a high temp ~220 F (my heat plate is not the most responsive) before adding FO/additives, will it alter any of its burn/ hot throw capabilities? also, does reheating wax (after one melting and cooling cycle) alter any of its capabilities/ properties? the wax I am currently using is coco83.
  10. Tjwaversano
    @NightLight Do you mean the actual meltpool touching the flame and extinguishing it?
  11. Tjwaversano
    As the title says, can it? I would think that an increased head pressure due to a greater depth of melted wax would cause a larger volume of fuel to be pushed through the wick which may cause it to clog.
  12. Tjwaversano
    As always, appreciate the knowledge!
  13. Tjwaversano
    Ya forgot to say I was using CD 9's I believe. The amount of vybar used was incredibly small (not even a full gram). Was also testing with stearic which seemed to do well but not as strong.
  14. Tjwaversano
    So I've been testing a coco 83 and vybar mixture with a 9% load which has had amazing punching power for the size ( ~2" diam and 3" height) of the candle but seems to get a low flame half way through the jar. I know this means a lack of fuel to the flame due to either low fuel delivery from a clogged wick or a lack of oxygen. The obvious thing to do (at least to me) would be to wick up, however, I am already getting full melt pool at ~20 mins and initial flame height is getting close to the "too high mark" at ~ 1.75" -2.00". Any thoughts? also, this candle is merely a test and our product line candles will be much larger so I know that plays a great role as well.
  15. Tjwaversano
    Hi TallTayl, I am using cement all from RapidSet. I do think I am using too much water. Going to change the ration to 4 parts cement to 1 part water. I'm trying some colorant from behr right now and it seems to be doing fine. I will definitely look into mason stains though! Air bubbles (bugholes) are a nightmare right now though and I cant seem to get rid of all of them.
  16. Tjwaversano
    All, I am having a difficult time getting consistent results with color, air bubbles and chunks (even after mixing thoroughly) using cement all. Similarly, I tend to damage the jar when removing it from the mold (little chips and such). I try to make the solution a little more watery (3 parts concrete to 2 parts water, so 5 parts total with a mixture of 600 g cement all and 400 g water for a total solution of 1000g) to avoid chunks. Color is a separate issue all together. I have been using iron oxide powder but that seems to require almost the entire bag just to get anywhere near the color I want (might go with a liquid dye from quickcrete). The air bubbles are managed using a dental vibrator, but even still the manage to show up. Any tips on how to master concrete?
  17. Tjwaversano
    Appreciate the responses! so it seems like the verdict is a little less than stellar for BW...pity. Might try some from a few more manufacturers. Is the HT any good on coco apricot from a good manufacturer?
  18. Tjwaversano
    Gents and gals, Just did a test between the above mentioned waxes in the title with the intent of seeing how vybar, stearic and S and P 487 work in each (and to, ultimately, see which works better with the additives). All things in teh test environment being held the same besides the waxes, I had not the best results with the BW 924. Specifically, cavitation around the wick with the vybar, and ugly bumpy tops with the stearic (S and P did fine). All experiments were done in a rather warm environment (my garage at roughly 90 to 95 degrees ambient temp) and the jars were fully jacketed (jars were 2.5 inch diam (top and bottom with slight curvature in the neck. Pour temps were 195F degrees for the BW 924 and 210F for the coco 83. Fragrance temps were 195F for the BW 924 and 210F for the coco 83. I don't think its a question of temperature gradient and differential cooling for the cavitation, but maybe the wax? I know they vary alot from manufacturer to manufacturer and I know the shortage of coco has yielded some low grade products from manufacturers. TL;DR, is it just that BW 924 is just difficult to work with/ lower quality than coco 83? or is it just a higher skill ceiling and I'm lacking?
  19. Tjwaversano
    Rereading the post, it seems like it is actually reporting the findings of LEAD STEARATE , but for whatever reason it also lands under the category of stearic acid. it seems like stearic acid is kind of a catch all for anything that might be stearin derived, not matter the source like plant or animal matter
  20. Tjwaversano
    https://nj.gov/health/eoh/rtkweb/documents/fs/1111.pdf This was something that stuck out to me from the NJHD
  21. Tjwaversano
    Thanks! ya I had always read stories on how FO would eb less potent is added to anything above the standard of 185. Good to know its not a hard limit!
  22. Tjwaversano
    Funnily enough we got the same distiller yesterday! and ya they are always watching...creepy right?
  23. Tjwaversano
    Appreciate it! lol you are a force of nature on this forum. I see you on literally every post🤣
  24. Tjwaversano
    Hey guys just curious if there is anyone that has had experience with using methods such as steam distillation to create their own essential oils? I know yield ratios are pretty abysmal but the process of doing so sounds fascinating
  25. Tjwaversano
    I know it is the main ingredient in pillar candles so obviously it must be proven to be non-toxic in some way but there seems to be a lot of research to the contrary in regards to stearic acid when combusted. Thoughts?
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