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Tjwaversano

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  1. In addition to the subject, I was wondering if there is a compendium or something similar on which FO's (and which companies) tend to throw well in coco 83. I know this can be seen as a loaded question as coco 83 formulas differ from manufacturer to manufacturer but I was wondering if there is a general "consensus" based on the commonly used ingredients in the wax? I currently use coco 83 from hive and honey which uses beeswax in its formula. P.S.: Is there any literature anyone would recommend to REALLY get into the science of hot throw?
  2. What temp would you recommend to pour fragrance on this blend? I roughly get to 190 to 195 F from the convective cooling caused by the stirring
  3. Ah good to know about the stearic in 487! I definitely need to be more detailed in my research on these wax/wax additive compositions. I figured I was adding maybe one to many solids. Any idea as as to the weird, almost powder like spongy/elastic consistency on the top? saw this on one other small make candle in store and the cold throw was incredible
  4. So as the title implies, I am testing the burn properties and hot throw of a coco 83, stearic and S &P 487 mix candle in 16oz white frosted glass jars (~4.5" in diameter and 3 inches tall with no bottle neck, just a wise open top). The ratios are 10% stearic, 25% S and P, 8% FO and 57% coco 83. FO added at 205 F, stirred for 30 to 45 seconds, and poured/cured overnight at 190 F in a hot (roughly 91 to 93 F garage) and humid (58 to 80% humidity) environment. I am using hive and honey coco83 wax (contains beeswax as per the manufacturer) and letting the candles cure a week before burning. The hot throw is very sub par for a 16 oz candle. I tested 4 scents and the best throw by far was a CD 7 wicked candle with approx 2.3" diam melt pool during the first 4 hour burn which filled a room roughly 24' x 30 ft' relatively well (not overpowering but just right it seemed) with a slight air current from a ceiling vent. The same candle with a large, non whisper wood wick generated very little throw in a small bathroom (10' by 8'). I had one 3 wicked Cd 4 that performed poorly and one two wicked cd 4 that performed poor to moderate in smaller rooms. I Know the wood wick is just far too much and is burning too hot so I may move down to a small but I fell like I might just be at that challenging point of trying to do the delicate balancing act all new to intermediate candle makers experience. Note: candles cured with a weird, almost powder like spongy consistency on the top. The wax wasn't soft per say but almost with a little bit of elasticity when pressed before actually deforming .
  5. As the title implies, I frequently have issues with blemishes, darkened/smudgy areas and white spots after pulling my concrete jars from the mould. I thought the white spots at first may have been efflorescence but they look more like "chips" in the paint or like something hit the jar (which it did not). Similarly, I sometimes see dark/smudgy areas on the jar. I figured this may just be excess moisture that would eventually dry out but, after about a week and a half or more, they still remain. It seems as if finger oils will stain the concrete when pressed hard enough, but I don't think it is due to my fingers as I am wearing nitrile gloves when handling. Finally, the bottom of the jars just look terrible with that saturated color on the bottom. I always mix quite well (powder in the dry cement all and, when water is added, until milkshake/smoothie like consistency) for 2+ more minutes and when initially poured, the bottom is of uniform color. Perhaps the dye is lighter and tends to diffuse to the surface? In addition to this, here are a couple of variables: 1. I live in a very hot and humid environment and create/cure my jars out in the garage with no temp control. Temperatures at night (when I do my work) normally range from 85 F to 92 F~ 2. Dyes used are Color Rare 3. Water used is distilled 4. Jars allowed to initially cure for 4 hours before removing the mould. Any and all help with this matter would eb greatly appreciated!
  6. As the title suggests, when removing my colored cement jars from their moulds I se smudges that look sometimes like fingerprints and sometimes just like general blotches. I do expect some discoloration and dark spots as the cement continues to dry, however, these tend to stay around even after 4 to 5 days of drying. The blotches in question are not light in color and do not come from water as I use distilled water. Any clues as to what these are /how to get rid of these?
  7. All, As the title suggests, if the wax is heated past its melting point and kept at a high temp ~220 F (my heat plate is not the most responsive) before adding FO/additives, will it alter any of its burn/ hot throw capabilities? also, does reheating wax (after one melting and cooling cycle) alter any of its capabilities/ properties? the wax I am currently using is coco83.
  8. @NightLight Do you mean the actual meltpool touching the flame and extinguishing it?
  9. As the title says, can it? I would think that an increased head pressure due to a greater depth of melted wax would cause a larger volume of fuel to be pushed through the wick which may cause it to clog.
  10. As always, appreciate the knowledge!
  11. Ya forgot to say I was using CD 9's I believe. The amount of vybar used was incredibly small (not even a full gram). Was also testing with stearic which seemed to do well but not as strong.
  12. So I've been testing a coco 83 and vybar mixture with a 9% load which has had amazing punching power for the size ( ~2" diam and 3" height) of the candle but seems to get a low flame half way through the jar. I know this means a lack of fuel to the flame due to either low fuel delivery from a clogged wick or a lack of oxygen. The obvious thing to do (at least to me) would be to wick up, however, I am already getting full melt pool at ~20 mins and initial flame height is getting close to the "too high mark" at ~ 1.75" -2.00". Any thoughts? also, this candle is merely a test and our product line candles will be much larger so I know that plays a great role as well.
  13. Hi TallTayl, I am using cement all from RapidSet. I do think I am using too much water. Going to change the ration to 4 parts cement to 1 part water. I'm trying some colorant from behr right now and it seems to be doing fine. I will definitely look into mason stains though! Air bubbles (bugholes) are a nightmare right now though and I cant seem to get rid of all of them.
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