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Jcandleattic

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Everything posted by Jcandleattic

  1. Here are some tealight wicks I found by doing a "tealight wick" search http://www.candlescience.com/search?q=tealight%20wick Would one of those work? I also couldn't find the CSN 11. As suggested, I would try calling. They may be trying to phase out the CSN wicks - even though they say they are good enough for the other natural waxes, they were specifically designed for the Palms, that they also no longer carry.
  2. Only one of mine ever got that moldy look - it was a white mold and I changed lids and threw it away. (it's a very dry climate where I am though, so I was surprised it got the mold!) I used to fill the lid with candies, or potpouri, or something to make them more interesting. My 10 oz jars (which I have since discontinued) are the only jars that still have the bubble top like that. Now I use the flat lid tops and people seem to like them much better. I know I do.
  3. huh, I don't know. I just grabbed what we had in the cupboard. All I know is it's in the blue packaging with the girl holding an umbrella. LOL I'll have to check when I get home.
  4. I have the water soluble too, but add to my oils. I've never gotten clumps, and the only time I've gotten the rivers is when I'm using a full water recipe that I force gel with. I usually only soap at 33% but when sometimes will use 38% and that's when I have gotten them - and you are right, for my soap anyway, the rivers have enhanced the soap IMO. Once it happened in my summer storms soap and it really did look like a bit of lightning in a summer stormy sky. I liked that one.
  5. It's up to you. Some people don't like using the VS because it is just another "chemical" that we add to our soap. And OOB it has a horrid chemical smell, but you don't detect that at all in the end product. I don't mind using it, as I would rather my colors stay as true as they can, but some will turn no matter if you use a VS or not. (there are so many exceptions to the rules of making soap, it's almost as frustrating as the English language. LOL)
  6. Be careful when adding TD - it can cause what is called "glycerin rivers" if you add too much water with the TD and it gels pretty hot. It could also be your FO. I've started using Vanilla Stabilizer in every batch that I use FO in whether the FO has a vanilla content or not and my soaps have been whiter and stayed whiter by doing that.
  7. I would let them know regardless of the other brand being a big-name brand you being a small local vendor. You can (and I know you will) do it politely and instead of just telling them with just your words, you can either print up some pages for verified links stating such (giving them the link of course so they can look it up themselves), give them some pamphlets on the subject by respected vendors in the business, etc., It can be done, and done well, and after that, it's up to them what they choose to believe and parrot.
  8. This is the wicking I use for 4625 - http://www.peakcandle.com/category/Wicks/Flat-Braid-Wick.aspx
  9. 1) yes, you can use 4625 for chunks, I do it all the time. 2) yes, you can use the same wax as an overpour - just pour slightly lower temp than you would the chuncks - like 5-10°'s 3) I use a 24ply for my 3" pillars using 4625 whether it's a chunk pillar or not. Good luck and welcome back...
  10. The problem with doing that is when it gets cold it will just happen again. I would leave them as is. As long as they are thoroughly tested, there should not be a problem.
  11. I use my SM3 for both of my soaps and candles. I did use a nice spreadsheet and still have it that has all kinds of columns and formulas to figure out everything for me. All I had to do is plug in a tiny bit of data and it did everything for me.
  12. WOW - very nice. I love it. The label, the creamy look of the wax, and yes, love the ribbon too. I want one!! LOL
  13. Sounds like either just wet-spots or wax shrinkage due to cooler weather. What kind of wax are you using? How are you storing your candles? If it's just wet-spots it is just an aesthetic problem and will not affect the burn. If it's shrinkage, it should still burn fine, but as burning the melted wax cold go between the wax and glass. Should still just be aesthetic.
  14. Mannie, I agree with the others. It looks just a tad over-wicked. If you could absolutely guarantee that people will only burn them for 3-4 hours, it would be good, but I'm afraid that if they power burn (like some people do) and burn for 6-8 hours or more, you will have a blow-out with wax leaking and going everywhere becoming a fire hazard. Perfect burn OldGlory. I am having so many wicking issues with my palm wax pillars because you can't hug them so they leave a shell. But blow out when I wick to be self consuming. *sigh*
  15. now you need to show us your finished products!
  16. Apple sage potpourri Cinnamon Sage *sigh* I am terrible at this...
  17. You can't get much simpler - a good salt bar recipe is 100% Coconut oil 20% superfat 50-100% salt ppo (per taste - I used 75% but like using between 50%-75% the most) (for mine I used 50% Himalayan Pink salt and added 25% table salt)
  18. Oh no, you need to make them!! Don't be intimidated. They are wonderful!! I used the new snowflake I got from a wonderful member here on the forum - *cough*you7pawz*cough* and they will work just fine, and smell GREAT, the coloring just went wonky. I think it was a combination of many things, but the most was just an off day.
  19. LOL I usually blame myself because that's usually who's at fault, but not this time. Well, not with the salt bars. Not exactly sure what happened there. However, the whipped soap - I'll take 65% of the blame. LMAO
  20. Well, MMS is close-ish. They are in UT. Their everyday prices are a tad more than some places, but without having to ship it clear cross country, total per unit cost is sometimes cheaper. And the "free" shipping is kind of a misnomer with WSP, because they add the shipping into their product cost, but sometimes even with them doing that, it will come out cheaper depending on the qty bought. The research to get the best deal possible (and all the math) can be daunting, but with significant savings, it can be so worth it. Good on you for doing it.
  21. Most people use palm because of the look it gives when either in a pillar or a container, and you would lose that in a blend. It's true that it is a very clean burning wax, but any properly made candle will burn clean. I personally don't see at many pros to this type of blend as I do cons - but that's my opinion. You may get different once.
  22. Here are a couple - http://www.craftserver.com/topic/105448-warmers-and-melts-comprehensive-overview/ http://www.craftserver.com/topic/102764-i-think-my-melter-sucks/
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