CandleCocoon

I love the BW917. It is my new favorite.

Don't give up! It sounds like you do this once a year for fun! Always remember that you can always remelt. And to be honest, you can make any wax work. It is generally the scents that may need to looked at. I had tested every "natural" wax on the market up to 2020 and while the the scent throws did differ I could always get something out of them with good scents. And this isn't to say that waxes don't have differences. Some waxes "squash" the scent. Some waxes drown out certain notes (bakery). Some waxes have a smell of their own. But overall, with good scents you can make your wax give you something. And if you do decide to go with a different wax just remember that you can use your old wax up at about 5-10% without changing the characteristics of the new wax. HTH. Now back to the fun with your daughter!

You may be able to seal them? Then have a note that says to let them harden before use? At least that way they won't get all over the place. They may not end up the prettiest but they would at least not spill all over. Not sure if this is much help...

Soooo, I am late to the party here but I do have a video on how to test burn an over 2" deep candle and what to look for. It is 3 hours long. I can post it if you like.

Yes, paraffin does not expire. It can change. The oils in it can move around and may even leach out but once they are reheated they go back together. And if it is dirty filtering is great! Or a lot of times the junk will fall to the bottom. To filter we use a fine mesh metal filter. That way if it freezes we can zap it with a heat gun. Also, there is an expiration date on a lot of natural waxes. What I have been told by manufactures is that it is actually closer to 3 years but you may see 1 or 2 years on it if it was processed in a food facility. And much of the naturals can go much longer if stored correctly. It can also get funky looking but often when melted will be fine.

Yes, you can mix harder waxes into rapeseed to make it harder. You could also try adding stearic acid which is naturally derived and hardens a lot.

Wondering why you are not getting good HT with the BW921? We have been testing it for over a year now and it is working just fab with all of our scents. Can I ask how you are creating the kitty piece? Temps, fo amounts, etc? I do also agree that having two different waxes cold affect your wicking. And I LOVE you kitty cat! SO cute and fits in there just perfectly! I love putting things on the top of my candles. And I think it looks pretty cool as the colored dye starts to leach into the piece.

We have tested every single one of our oils in standard tealight metal cups with GB464 and most of them take a CD3. When we tested the C-3 years ago it was about the same but there was a bit more interaction of scent/soy which caused some of them to need slightly bigger wicks (cd4/cd5).

My thoughts exactly Nightlight. Eco are fine wicks but very limited in size. For a 3.36" (85mm) base wick would be a CDN16 using GW464 (no scent or dye). I haven't tested Ecosoya in so long that I don't remember what the wicking was like for that one. I do remember is was close to the GW464 for base wick....

In our testing with Millennium wax years ago the base wick (no scent, no dye) in 3" diameter was a CD16. But each of our scents changed it so much that the range was CD4 - CDN22 for 3" diameter. Hope this helps a little.

I pour scent right into the pour pot, otherwise the cling can throw my calculations off. Cling can account for quite a bit of scent waste. I put the bottle of scent on the scale, tare out and work negative. If the scale says -.30oz then I know I have exactly .30 oz in the pour pot with the wax ready to be made into a candle. When I am teaching a class I will often have the class pour into metal sauce cups so they don't spill all over the place. Then they pour those into the pour pots. When we weigh them at the end there is still a lot of scent clinging so we make sure to add a tad extra to account for the difference.

I agree, I have never needed anything to stop up the hole in silicone molds. I have on occasion not rubber banded the two halves tightly together, but that is another story....

Hi all! I posted this to my Newsflash folks but wanted my new forum to know about it as well. I overbought on Hemp Oil (you know when it says not to use the back button because orders may be duplicated....) So! I am giving away a limited quantity. Sale is for 3 days only. --------------------------------------> POP UP Sale! 3 Days Only! FREE 14oz Hemp Seed Oil. No code needed. See savings at check out. Purchase $50+ of anything except for wax and get it free! $6.95 value. 1)Add 14oz of Hemp Seed Oil to the cart 2)Add anything else (except wax) totaling $50 or more. 3)Discount for $6.95 will pop up automatically

I did sand the insides of a silicone mold about a million years ago. It was a really old one that was starting to fall apart. Probably 20 years old. I just used large grit sandpaper and like a pencil to poke it into the corners. But, the freezing method works just as good and you don't need to damage your molds. In fact, I like the frozen look better.

Total person preference. I work with the SFIC and they all have a really nice lather. My favorite is the palm free.