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audreyb0t

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  1. Oh I am more on the newer side of this compared to people who have been working with waxes for 20+ years yes, but I'm more of an intermediate study (3+ years) and I do take more notes than I can really keep track of but also yes it is excellent advice to anyone wanting to expand their borders I agree. This is just a disclaimer to set aside the pre notion that I'm a pyromanic that wants to set a record of setting as many homes on fire as possible 😎 This post was really more about theory than anything else - and the candle mother (TallTayl) seemed to address some of the issue at hand: in order to "remove" the inconsistencies found in batch to batch of your chosen (singular) wax formulation like 464, 6006, EC-26, etc. you need to actually understand and read the patents involved in individual selected waxes in order to ensure a custom made waxes consistency, I think. Maybe I interpreted her words incorrectly, maybe I didn't explain myself very well. In any case, if I want to be more descriptive of my issue, I am trying to move away from relying on one wax. I work with container candles. I want to minimize the ninja sinkholes and sweating that soy seems to like doing so much while having an attractive looking wax with good glass adhesion. I do have 'backup' waxes that I use but I'm playing with the idea of creating an original blend made by myself and wanted some tips to head in a more informed direction. For example, after scouring this dinosaurish, yet well loved, site for blend recommendations, 464 was recommended if you wanted to add soy to your custom blend because it supposedly 'plays well' with other waxes. Hopefully this clarifies my post a bit. I do appreciate this site and have found quite a few gold nuggets over the years by many of the users here! It's been a godsend when starting candle making from scratch.
  2. Hey there candle comrades I am very curious and tempted to enter the world of creating your own wax blend, but I do have some questions before I get into the whole thing. It sounds like this has been the answer to people experiencing issues from batch to batch of their original, pre-blended wax of inconsistencies, but does blending your own wax avoid this problem? For example, if you are still purchasing from a manufacturer or supplier, could that wax in question not also experience inconsistences from batch to batch? If I do choose to experiment and create my own best fit wax blend, what specific waxes (ex. 464, pure beeswax, etc) or guidelines do you suggest I start with? I can't imagine that i can simply slap any two waxes together and call it a day, and surely there are some waxes that take to blending much better than others. I hope my questions and reasoning made sense. Thanks in advance!
  3. Sorry I just read this reply. Still working with this wax, yes. That photo did not have any dye or fragrance added, it really does not like the P700 series or (a lot of times) ECO wicks. I have learned that CDN wicks are the favored wick, along with LX and HTP/CD being a close tie. I've recently had a bigger issue of wicks simply curling over even though I've tested them repeatedly and have seen them burn just fine. I honestly am starting to think that the weather really does make a difference in how these candles burn, particularly the harder waxes. I am not not sure how to proceed with maneuvering around that issue.
  4. Thank you for the responses. I am taking more notes than I ever have in my school years and I realize maintaining recipes for well burning candles is a constant uphill battle. I will keep in mind the information given to me and also try filling the jar halfway. If this struggle to form a melt pool is occurring without any fragrance in it, I guess it is safe to say that the wick series are simply incompatible with the wax. I'll probably test here and there still but not as frequently as I have been. I have stopped being stubborn and started testing the CDN wicks. LX has been successful in this wax as well. I have tried 464! It is easy to work with and I am able to get really strong throw from it. For some reason I like the smell of BW-917 and when comparing fragrances of just the wax itself I favored this over 464, C55 (which is a coconut tart wax), and another blend. I thought it produced a more full bodied CT and HT over just soy and coconut. I briefly tried the Coconut Apricot wax and I really liked it, and I'm also interested in trying EC-26 and the Coconut Beeswax 84X. I think having an easier wax to work with and a more difficult one like BW-917 will be better for me. Here's some photos of what the melt pool and flames look like in a 9oz jar with BW-917 wax. No fragrance added. Burn time is about 3 hours now.
  5. I have! I only wicked down to the point where I thought the Baseline would be, and I did not wick any lower than that. It is pretty much the same across the board and I recorded very minor differences. It is quite difficult reading material about this wax as there isn't much, if at all, information about working with it. That's why I decided to make this post and hopefully get experienced users with either coconut or beeswax or a blend of them to see more about the properties and behavior of those waxes for more foundational knowledge. I appreciate your response ❤️
  6. Hello I have been browsing the contents of this server for quite a while now taking as much information as I possibly can, and I have learned a lot. Still learning too! consider myself a novice working with both coconut and beeswax. However, I'm encountering a bit of a discrepancy in terms of what I learned and my experiences from using BW-917. From what I have read about using coconut wax and blends that use coconut wax, using wicks that burn cooler like CDN is ideal. Beeswax on the other hand is quite hard, and using wicks that burn pretty hot is effective for this. I would think mixing the two together leads to the wax needing a hotter burning wick than a CDN. However on threads that I read on this server, coconut wax blends that contain beeswax still get recommended to use CDN as opposed to say, HTP and CD. This part is a little confusing to me. In order to continue testing BW-917 I think I need some clarity on how to proceed in my testing. The current problem I am having is that wicks like ECO and the P700 series produce fantastic HT in my candles and they start off with a seemingly normal burn. When I get towards the middle of the jar burnwise, the flame starts to weaken and of course the meltpool in turn also gets shorter. This is the opposite of what I would expect from a candle that continues to burn down into the jar. The flame does not die out if I continue to burn it all the way down. There is also no hang up on the sides either, just a minimal melted surface and a flame that is ~.25in tall. Here are the stats of what I'm currently working with: 9oz jar ECO-10 (example) BW-917 wax no fragrance result: 3/4 into the jar... .43in flame .03in meltpool and burning a candle that has about a 7% FL into it with the same jar, wax and wick does the same thing. I try to wick up. I go from an ECO-10 to a 12, and even a 14. The same thing happens. Flame is strongest at the start, and then consecutive burns become much weaker. The only difference I've seen is the 14 started off with a really large flame (1.1in), and then on the end of the second burn the flame height goes to .06in. The same thing happens with the P700 wicks. HTP and CD wicks are the only wicks that maintain a steady meltpool throughout the life of the candle. What does this mean? I can keep testing but I am at a point where I am not sure how to interpret the information I am recording or where to go from here. Currently my testing as lead me to believe that hotter burning wicks are effective with blends using beeswax, yet when I see wick recommendations like CDNs for Coconut 84 (coconut/beeswax) I get confused. There must be something I'm understanding incorrectly or information I'm missing about the properties of the wax. Any guidance would be amazing. Thanks!
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