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Lori berlin

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    Female
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    Berlin, Deutschland
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    Kerzenmacher seit November 2020

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    Kerzen

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  1. Hello, I have made some melts with 10% Christmas scents, which unfortunately seem way too overpowering, so I don't want to offer them like that. Now I'm thinking about melting down the melts again to stretch them with some pure wax. I would imagine that is possible, but am unsure. Before I get into it, my question: would much fragrance be lost when melting down the melts? If so, is it necessary to add pure wax at all? Has anyone done this before? Best regards Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
  2. Thank you for the quick and detailed reply. It is not the wick flap, which sits bombproof to the end at the bottom of the glass. Also the wick thread is always fixed firmly and straight on the wick holder. But what you have explained regarding the stability of the wicks, makes sense to me. I have never looked at the differences between the wicks in this way. Thanks for this valuable info. Since I need to use up the existing wax first, I will try other wicks (although I love the LX wicks) and see if changing the wick solves the problem. One more question: How can you tell if a wax is hard or soft if there is nothing in the description about it? Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
  3. The following problem occurs now and then and nerfs me enormously: While the candle is burning, the wick wanders outward after a while, so I often have to correct it with a chopstick. This usually happens when the candle has burned down about 1 cm. In doing so, I basically do nothing wrong. I adjust the wick exactly in the center of the glass and then fix it with a wick holder, just as it should be. Even after I pour in the wax, the wick sits straight and yet this happens. Can someone please explain to me what this could be? I am currently using CS 1 wax (paraffin mixture similar to Sasol container wax), 7% fragrance, Lx 12 wick. Best regards Simone Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
  4. Besides candle-shack there are the following candle stores where it is really worth to buy materials: randallscandles.co.uk suppliesforcandles.co.uk craftovator.co.uk craftastik.co.uk nicandlesupplies.co.uk (Ireland) scentssoapsandcandles.co.uk ...... UK has many other candle making stores though. With the right search you will surely find some other stores.
  5. I have tried pretty much all the candle stores I could find in Europe. Although I am based in Germany and therefore don't like to pay customs fees, the UK stores listed below turned out to be the best stores as far as materials like scents, wick and wax are concerned. Despite the customs fees, the prices are still cheaper than if I were to buy from an EU store. It depends on what kind of candles with what scents you want to make. Nicandlesupplies.co.uk, for example, has no perfume scents, but other very high quality scent compositions that you can't get anywhere else. On their site you'll also find a really great and quite accurate fragrance load calculator that you should definitely try out. Suppliesforcandles.co.uk again has very, very good and high quality perfume scents. My experience with this is based on the fact that I have purchased the same fragrances from different stores time and time again, https://suppliesforcandles.co.uk https://www.craftastik.co.uk https://scentssoapsandcandles.co.uk https://candle-shack.co.uk https://www.randallscandles.co.uk https://www.craftovator.co.uk https://www.nicandlesupplies.co.uk Basically, you can find really good materials in all these stores. I hope I could help. Best regards and a healthy new year. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
  6. Thank you very much for your answers. I probably expressed myself a bit awkwardly. I actually mean candles where the two different scents are poured in layers. I used the English Pear & Fresia x Lime Basil & Mandarin scents, which were also used in the original Jo Malone candles. So I didn't have to worry about matching the scents in a hurry. But of course I would like to experiment with other fragrance oils. True, if the scents meet in the middle, it should be important that they go well together. So your answers have been helpful to me. Thank you and best regards Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
  7. Has anyone ever made a candle with two different scents? Jo Malone offers two candles in which two different scents are poured per candle. I found the idea so great that I tried it out today. However, the candle still has to cure for a few days before I can test it. Has anyone done this before? If so, is there anything in particular I should be aware of? Love greetings
  8. Thank you very much for your answer. You seem to be a very experienced mentor in candle making with much to learn from. Thank you for sharing your experience. I immediately applied your tip to test candles and it worked beautifully. Although it is a bit of a hassle with wicks that are completely encased in wax ( like the LX wicks I used), fortunately the wicks are long enough. I lightly scraped off the wax at the top about 1 cm until the "V" -side and the "BERG" side was visible In the meantime, I have prepared all the wicks I need for my 2-wick candles and marked the BERG side on the metal holder so that inserting the wicks is quicker. Best wishes and have a nice weekend... Simone Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
  9. Hello, I have a question again. The wicks of my 2-wick candles (so far only for my own consumption) do not always tilt in the optimal direction after the first lighting. The distances of the wicks are well centered, but if both wicks tilt in the same direction, it happens that one side of the glass is a little hotter and the wax melts faster there. In larger containers, this is not quite as troublesome. But I would like to use containers with an oval diameter and there I already see a problem. So far, I have sometimes plumbed the wicks in my round containers during the burning process, but that's just a solution for me, it wouldn't be so good for selling the candles, I think. Or am I being too picky? Is there a way to tell the direction of a wick's tilt before it is inserted, or to influence the direction of the tilt? For my wax mixture I use small LX wicks. Kind regards Simone Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
  10. I am so frustrated. A few days ago I poured 20 candles with different scents (Nivea, Lily of the Valley) with much joy and enthusiasm. When all the candles were done, I was horrified to discover while cleaning up that I had accidentally used wicks that were way, way too small. The bag of wicks was so poorly labeled that I didn't even realize it was the wrong wick size. A test fire revealed that nothing was salvageable. The flame is too small. What can I do now? As a small retailer, I rely on every jar of candles. I have considered remelting the wax (Kerax 4105/Rape mix with 7% fragrance). However, I am not sure at what temperature I can melt the already scented wax. And I also wonder if the candles will have the same scent afterwards as before and if I can still sell the candles then. If the fragrance should no longer be in intensity, can I add some fragrance? Or would there then be too much oil in the wax? Of course, I do not want to cause fire damage. Please help me. With kind regards Simone Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
  11. Hello! So far I have always made my candles the same way. I heated the wax ( GB 464 and Kerax 4105) to 85 degrees, added the fragrance at 7% at about 84 - 80 degrees and poured the wax between 56 - 63 degrees. The candles have always turned out well. Now I've read on the net that some candle manufacturers don't add the fragrance oil to the wax until near the flash point so the fragrance doesn't evaporate. This would mean that a fragrance with a flash point of 60 degrees can also only be added to the wax at 60 degrees. I am confused. So I did some more research. In doing so, I came across a post that says that the flash point doesn't matter when adding fragrance oil because the heat at 85 degrees is not great enough to vaporize the fragrance. Which is correct? How do you guys do it? I've only been making candles since November 2020, and so far I've only sold them to friends and colleagues or used them as gifts. I taught myself how to make candles with the help of the internet and this forum.Unfortunately, I do not know any chandlers here in Germany with whom I can exchange and learn together Therefore, I am, like many other beginners in candle making, dependent on the tips and insights of chandlers from this forum and very grateful for any advice. Unfortunately, I do not know any chandlers here in Germany with whom I can exchange and learn together Therefore, like many other beginners in candle making, I am dependent on the tips and experiences of chandlers from this forum and very grateful for any advice. Best regards Simone Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
  12. Thanks for your answer. As I understood your question, releasing from the mold can be a problem when using container wax for melts. I tried that right away and poured the container wax (Kerax 4105) into a clamshell mold and into a silicone mold to test it out. Lo and behold, it looks smooth and shiny, has an unbelievably great scent throw, but: .... it takes a lot of effort and mess to get it out of the plastic mold! The wax pops out of the silicone mold more easily. So using my favorite wax in pure form is not an option for clamshell molds. I assume the candle makers who use container wax for melts pour the wax ( without any other additives) only in silicone molds and not in clamshell molds. Best regards Simone Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
  13. Hello dear candle friends, I need some advice and hope the Google translator translated my text reasonably readable. I have used/tried Golden Brands 494, Sasol Sasol 6243 and Kerax 4600 for my wax melts so far. I pour the wax into wax trays. With GB 494, I don't like the frosting that forms after a while. Sasol 6243 only tolerates up to 8% fragrance oil, which is too little for me, and Kerax 4600 creates unsightly dents on the top layer when curing if you only do one pour. That's why I sometimes mixed the waxes with natural wax, but I'm not really satisfied with the effort either. I keep reading that some candle makers only use container wax for their melts. Since I am very happy with my Kerax 4105 container wax, I am wondering if I can use it for my melts as well. I would also appreciate a brief explanation of what the difference is between container wax and wax for melts. I always heat the wax to 85 degrees, add fragrance at 80 degrees and pour at about 60 degrees, depending on the wax type. I do not use any dyes. Stay all healthy! Greetings from Berlin Simone Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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