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About ambar

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  1. Ok thank you! I’ll let it sit for 2 weeks beginning today. It was very soft. Are there any particular guidelines for triple wicking? My wicks were performing excellent first 30 minutes and then began to drown out. Should I be reaching a full melt pool in a triple wicked candle quicker than single wicked?
  2. Any advice for double wicking a 4.5inch container that’s 2.5inches tall with IGI 6006? I’m just playing around with this wax for the first time & ive tried triple wicking CD 6, CD 8, & ECO 1, but I assume it’s been too hot because after an hour, the wicks get dim (drowning?) and they start tilting (the downward pooling vs widening melt pool is annoying). P.s. Candle Science says triple wick with CD 4 but I don’t have that, so I’m hoping double wicking would work.
  3. Did you ever figure out the problem with this? I’ve been having a similar issue with my 444, but I single wick using CD wicks. Thanks for your help!
  4. Ooooo I was worried you’d say that 😕 I guess I’ll finish this box & do a switch over to C-3, or back to paraffin thanks again!
  5. Okay, I figured as much. Thank you! I remember you’ve mentioned before the inconsistencies with 444 wax (craters, air bubbles, etc). do you think 444 has inconsistencies with wicking & performance, too? What’s your experience in regards to having to change the wicks batch per batch, for formulas you’ve already mastered?
  6. Dang I was trying to avoid this. Thankfully I have some good guesses on wick sizing for most of my candles, so I won’t have to make a million candles with a million different wicks. Thank you!
  7. Also, for reference, I am using 11oz straight sided Libby jars, 3.06” diameter, & CD 22 is the one that has given me most problems, but I’ve used up to CD 24 & thats worked perfectly (strangely enough)...
  8. The times during testing I have experienced a weak scent throw, I didn’t smell wax it just smelled burnt? And I knew the wick must’ve been too big. Melt pool never exceeds 1/2 inch, but is usually about 1/4-1/2inch deep.
  9. I do test them myself but I make half sized candles when testing (I poke a hole for wick testing) & they burn perfectly all the way through. But then it got me thinking .. should I be making full sized candles? Will that make a difference? It seems like a waste of wax, especially since I can reach full melt pool and get a sense of the hot throw with just a half-sized candle.
  10. Hi everyone! have y’all ever experienced this issue before? I am using GB 444. I heat up wax to 190, add oil at 185 (anywhere from 8%-10%, depending on the FOs strength), stir for 2 minutes (clockwise and counterclockwise), and pour almost immediately after stirring (temp is usually anywhere from 160-175 after that). I let them cure for 1-2 weeks. This is my general process! however, a few of my friends who test my candles have said that although they smell amazingly when first lit, the candle loses it scent throw or it weakens on the 2nd burn (or sometimes half way through).
  11. Thanks for this advice!! I’ll make sure to use a heat gun and poke around a few times before sending out a product.
  12. So how exactly do sinkholes/air bubbles affect the candle performance? My tops are always smooth but as soon as I hit it with a heat gun, I start seeing small cavities & bubbles. When I test my candles, I never bother to hit with a heat gun & they never cause problems (assuming there are cavities in my tester candles that I cannot see beneath the pretty surface). What’s the big deal? Just aesthetic or is it going to affect the hot throw?
  13. Do you do a test every time you receive a new lot of wax? Curious to know your supplier! I’ve heard of inconsistencies with 444 & it seems like whoever you get it from is consistent with quality (assuming that makes a difference, whether I buy from Flaming Candle or Candle Science).
  14. Hmm damn, I’ve only been buying 20lb bags so now I’m nervous. What soy wax brand would you recommend that’s consistent?
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