Grace5810
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Everything posted by Grace5810
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Okay! So I have finally decided to graduate to making tea light candles rather then just waxmelt and....I am uncertain of my product. My biggest issue is my hot throw. The CT is amazeballs but as soon as you light that sucker up there is much to be desired. I am using GB 444 in a standard tealight tin with a eco .5 wick. For a test area I place it in my bathroom which is about 11ft by 6ft , so fairly small, and I don't really smell much. Maybe a medium throw. The candles have been curing for over a week so I feel like now is a good time to start testing....... Anyways for all you guys out there who have used 444 what is your advice? What should be the general scent radius for one tealight candle? Should I try two at once rather then one?
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Thanks for sharing. I have not strayed from soy wax so I am unfamiliar with how a heat gun would interact with other types of wax. I use GB 494 so my comment only applied towards that. Since posting my original post I found my statement to hold true in my makings so now I try and refrain from using the heat gun on my tops. If I have an issue I wait for it to completely harden and then remelt the messed up peices or flakes to 180 degrees and then repour. As far as the functionality of this process, I find that it works well and does not effect the scent quality ( I use 10 percent).
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As I write this I am enjoying the fresh smell of my 'bonfire' wax melt that I had made one week ago. Everything was going perfect until I noticed my fragrance starting to evaporate off the top. I blew it out immediately however I found that this is not the first time this has happened as I use my wax melter. I am trying to figure out why this is happening. Is it that my tealight candle is to big? or does it have to do with the fragrances themselves? I was timing the wax and at the 45 minute mark it started to smoke/steam/fume, what ever yo want to call it, and now I am worried about how this will effect product reviews. The CT and HT are amazing and strong however if it all dissapears because it is getting to hot then that wont really matter. What do you guys and gals think? p.s I do trim the wick to almost non existent before lighting however this still happens.
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I am updating this topic for anyone who may come across it later. After receiving the six molds from amazon I proceed to create a batch to test my ongoing theory. I heated the wax to 185 added the color chips then let it cool to 165 and added the fragrance. After having it cool down to about 135 I poured all 300g at once into my molds and two hours later they were perfect! I tried again with 5 different scent and color combinations (each time following the same procedure) and each time the wax hardened and was quite smooth. On a side note, Once or twice I used my heat gun to smooth any uneven tops which actually made the wax melts much more grainy on the outside (the inside still being quite solid.) So, my advice is to avoid using the heat gun on wax melts as it heats up the first layer of wax around the melt at a temperature lower then 180 and gives them a weird surface texture.
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By additives do you mean FO and color? If so I have not tried doing it that way. On the other hand if you mean additives in the sense of extra compounds to aid the wax then, I am not adding any to it. On an other note, I have been hesitant to reheat to 180 again and again because I do not want to loose potency. There has been a lot of debate from sources I have read which argues that this is not true however many say it could happen.
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I am fairly new to making wax melts and every now and then I run into a little hiccup. I use Golden Brands 494 for my melts and heat them up to 180 then I add my color wait till 160 then add my fragrance then wait till 130 to pour. For the most part everything comes out great the first pour into the mold however after that it all goes pear shaped. At the moment I only own one silicone mold (11 cubbies) so after pouring the necessary amount the rest remains in the pouring cup, where it hardens and then has to get remelted (normally at 140) after the second time doing this I noticed that the wax refuses to fuse and harden. It has the same consistency of damp flour. The smell is still great and I can still put it in the warmer however I t just refuses to harden. My main question is, if it is because the remelting. Does it permanently mess with the soy's molecular structure? I have 6 molds coming in from amazon so my redundant method of production should become more efficient. Grace
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I would like to start of by saying that I am fairly new to the candle making game. Unlike some seasoned veterans I barley have a year under my belt making candles and wax melts. However, with the risk of sounding prideful, I make good products. My HT and CT are strong and I have a set process that gives 90% sucess (avoiding major issues) when it comes to production. That being siad, the other 10% lies in the look of the candle. I use soy 464 for my candles and 494 for my melts and each frost. I understand that it is because it is natural and that is what soy does however I can't help but question if someone would want to buy a candle with it. Personally I would be okay with it because I know the quality of the candle is maintained in its most principle level (the scent) however the average consumer might not know that. For the bussiness owners out there, what is your take on selling these 'imperfect' candles?