KatieN

Hi guys! I have had the hardest time finding suppliers that consistently have clear 9 ounce straight sided jars (70-400) in stock. I know about Fillmore Container, but are there any other jar supply companies that you can recommend? My dream is to be able to pick jars up locally, rather than having them shipped. I'd save a ton on shipping costs. I am in north Georgia. But, of course, shipping is okay, too. Thanks, Katie

Thanks for the info! But the wax is NOT 100% SOY. It's a parasoy blend. It's called Problend 600, and I get it from Flaming Candle. The blend ratio is 52% soy and 48% paraffin. I don't think it's a color issue because it happened to my plain white candles as well. I've uploaded a picture of a white one for you to take a look at since it contains no dye. The batches I'm pouring lately look weird, and I'm not sure if this is frosting or an adhesion issue. I'm doing everything right with my pouring temps. Is it just the season? How do you remedy this issue? Should I also pour parasoy at a lower than recommended temperature, like you do 100% soy?

Hi! I poured a batch of candles this past weekend. I use Flaming Candle's Problend 600 wax, which is 52% soy and 48% paraffin. I washed, dried, and heated my jars in a low oven. I poured my wax at about 160F, which is what the recommended pouring temp is for that wax. The candles set up in a room that stayed between 72-74 F overnight. I woke up to find most all of them looking like the candles in the photos I have attached. I'm not sure if it's frosting or an adhesion issue. What do you guys think? I tried to get rid of it with the heat gun. It goes away, but comes right back, sometimes just as bad as before. Typically, regular old wet spots don't do that. I can't figure out what this is and why it's forming on my jars. This is the first time I've ever had this problem be this significant. I do sometimes get small patchy areas here and there that resemble this, but nothing this major all over the entire jar. My questions are: 1) What do you think this is? 2) How do I avoid it? 3) How can I fix it in my current candles? Thanks so much for your help!!

Hi guys! I am going to try my hand at offering 6-pack tealight candle samplers in my shop, but I'm having a hard time finding boxes that would work. I'm using standard sized clear tealights (1.5 inches wide) and want to package 6. I like clear boxes or the Kraft ones with the clear window. Could anyone suggest where I can purchase boxes that would work? Thanks!

Hello! I have a couple of questions that I hope some of you experienced candle-makers can answer for me: (1) Do wicks from different supply companies vary in size, even when they're in the same series? For example, is it possible that a Premier 740 from Aztec could burn stronger/hotter than a Premier 740 from Flaming Candle? Or do all wicks in a series (no matter where they're from) burn the same? (2) I am trying to wick 9 oz straight-sided jars (2.75 in diameter) using Problend 600 wax with 10% fragrance load using Premier wicks. I have found that Premier 740 works the best for me from Aztec. I get a full melt pool in 2.5 - 3 hours with a steady flame that is not too high with minimum mushrooming even after a 4 hour burn. The HT is good enough and fills a medium-sized room. BUT, I looked at Flaming Candle's wick guide and found that "technically," a Premier 740 is supposed to be too low of a wick for my jars. Their guide recommends a Premier 750 or 755 for the size jar I am using. I did test a 750 and 755, but they both were overwicked to me when the candle had burned 1/3rd down the jar. Big flames, huge mushrooms, deep pools, and wisps of smoke. But still, I want the perfect candles, and I am not confident enough yet to really go against wick guides. Should I not pay too much attention to them, though, or should I consider wicking up like the guide suggests? Has anyone else found that they end up wicking WAAAAAAY off from what a wick guide suggests? Hope somebody can help me!

Hello! I have a couple of questions that I hope some of you experienced candle-makers can answer for me: (1) Do wicks from different supply companies vary in size, even when they're in the same series? For example, is it possible that a Premier 740 from Aztec could burn stronger/hotter than a Premier 740 from Flaming Candle? Or do all wicks in a series (no matter where they're from) burn the same? (2) I am trying to wick 9 oz straight-sided jars (2.75 in diameter) using Problend 600 wax with 10% fragrance load using Premier wicks. I have found that Premier 740 works the best for me from Aztec. I get a full melt pool in 2.5 - 3 hours with a steady flame that is not too high with minimum mushrooming even after a 4 hour burn. The HT is good enough and fills a medium-sized room. BUT, I looked at Flaming Candle's wick guide and found that "technically," a Premier 740 is supposed to be too low of a wick for my jars. Their guide recommends a Premier 750 or 755 for the size jar I am using. I did test a 750 and 755, but they both were overwicked to me when the candle had burned 1/3rd down the jar. Big flames, huge mushrooms, deep pools, and wisps of smoke. But still, I want the perfect candles, and I am not confident enough yet to really go against wick guides. Should I not pay too much attention to them, though, or should I consider wicking up like the guide suggests? Has anyone else found that they end up wicking WAAAAAAY off from what a wick guide suggests? Hope somebody can help me!

Hello! I am struggling with finding the best wick for my 9 oz straight-sided jars using IGI 6006 and fragrance oil at 10%. There is a particular fragrance oil that I am trying desperately to incorporate into my line because it perfectly matches a specific theme I need, but it is so subtle when burned. I am thinking that if I can choose a hotter burning wick, it can work for me. I am currently in the HTP wick family. I've tried HTP 73 and 83. The HTP 83 gave really strong hot throw, but begins mushrooming badly within 2 hours of the burn. The flame is also very active and too tall for my liking. But I need something that is hot enough to get the fragrance to disburse. What do you suggest? Thanks!