jsull918

Gotcha. So, a lot # wouldn’t be on a 50 lb box? I can barely smell the HT either

I've honestly never checked the wax lot #.......crap I dont have the box anymore I've already diced the wax and stored it. Can you explain this to me? Where do i find the lot # and can I somehow ask the supplier what lot # it is that I currently have verses my others? In this instance with my situation, say it is the wax... what do i do? wick up I assume since i'm not getting a full pool? And yes, just the wicks are different (assuming it's the new htp wicks).

I was testing htps bc I heard they were changing and it's what I use and i've noticed that im not getting a full pool anymore with htp73 in the 8oz jelly with 6006.....glad i tested. However, I'm confused bc I keep hearing the new wicks are supposed to burn hotter......wouldn't this seem as if they're burning cooler if that's happening? Also, I've reached out to Lonestar about it when I first heard, and was told they knew nothing about new wicks?? Also in another group someone else said they reached out to theirs at the candle supply store and they also said they didn't know anything was changing either... odd. So here i am with a brand new bag of 1,000 new htp 73's and seems as if they're not working for me anymore with my combinations.

whats the best prevention from the 8 oz masons? I just pour like supplier says, i heat my jars and put them in the box they came in and pour at 170... sometimes lower bc it'll cool faster sometimes while stirring the fo.

Do you heat gun or poke holes and repair EVERY candle even if they have smooth tops? Is it a waste of time to do it to my 8oz jellies and 8 oz square masons or just let those be if they are smooth? It only happens in my 12 oz canning jars.

IGI 6006

This is NOT tunneling, it is the correct wick. It’s an under the surface air pocket. Please read post. ) I am so paranoid and need some advice. A few times when testing candles I've had some air pockets happen about 15-20 minutes after lighting. These are under the surface so you don't know they're there ..with smooth tops and all. Since then, I poke lots of holes in the tops even if they come out smooth and heat gun, just to be sure this doesnt happen. Guess what? It happened, again. All this heat gunning EVERY SINGLE candle I make is really lots and lots of time, on top of that, I feel like I'm burning off fragrance. Any suggestions?? Should I only take to the heat gun if there are visible sink holes after cooling and just roll with it? Basically because it seems no matter if I poke holes on top and heat gun or not, it IS still possible to get those under the surface air pockets... Has this ever happened to you? Also, has it ever happened and a customer ended up with one of those candles?

The very first try with 6006, I used RRD 40 wick in my 2.9” diameter 12 oz mason jar With 8% FO. and it smelled up the room within the first 15 minutes. That was just for fun. Now I’m really testing. Lx and zinc, and waiting for flaming candle to get their premier wick samples in stock. I don’t know anywhere else that has them. im going to be testing in 4oz tins, 4oz & 8 oz jelly jars, medium straight sided jars, 12oz canning and 16 oz tins (double wick). any advice with those are appreciated by anyone.

Ditto, but I’m having a super hard time. I was using soy 464 and switched to 6006. Testing wicks currently. Specifically focusing on my 16oz tin right now double wicking it. So far lx 12 & 14 seem to be not working. Going to try double wicking LX 16 next. I’ve been trying to ask for help I’m in some groups on Facebook, and there’s a mentor ship but when I rich out to the ones listed as mentors, they read my message and ignore.

I see so many people talking about wick testing and the melt pool needs to be 1 inch per hour of diameter...... I've also spoke to someone who has been making candles for over 10 years and successfully sells candles. she called BS on it and never goes by that. She said that the customer's don't care about that they care about the hot throw not the rate of speed to accomplish a melt pool. As long as you monitor your wicks and heat of the glass when you're testing, you're good. Customer's don't want to sit and wait 3 hours before they start to smell their candle, so the whole thing where people are like "it's been 2 hours and I can't smell my candle" and people's responses are "well if its 3 inches, you've still got an hour left, be patient" don't fly. What are y'alls thoughts on this? I mean, it made sense to me.

I’ve been using soy 464 with CD wicks ranging from CD 8 to CD 12 the best hot throw I’ve ever gotten was from using an RRD 40 wick. A lot of suppliers say to go bar the diameter of the container however candle science goes by not only the diameter of the container but also the wax why is this? Recommending CD eights for soy wax for specific container but recommending eco 2 in 6006 wax with the same container. Since recently testing with 6006 I have found it gives off a better hot throw it did awesome with an RRD 40 it also did well with eco-six this is in 12 ounce canning jar from candle science. I’m just really trying to learn the differences in the wick size versus the wax even though is the same diameter of the jar does anyone have a preference CD or eco or RRD? If I went by the diameter size alone I would be using a CD 12 and the 12 ounce canning jar but for whatever reason candle scent says use an echo for for that one but what I’m finding echo in CD or equivalent in their sizing. Help.

I'm not really even sure how to ask this but we're ready to launch our site but have no idea how to go about the shipping. Should we use flat rate (already have the USPS Priority mail boxes), by weight (already have plain boxes we got from ULINE), or by number of items? We are using square to host our site and don't want to pay the price for the $80 plan yet to get the real time shipping info. The biggest question we have is figuring out how many boxes the customer will end up needing. We don't want to have to cover the shipping costs because we were wrong about something.

You should definitely make videos please! We need someone we can trust!!

Do you prefer 464 or something like IG6006 and why do you like what you like better??

Yeah, I cure them, mostly i'll go 3 weeks, but have gone nearly 2 months before I test. whats your favorite blend and where do you get it? and do blends need to cure?

Hear me out. Im so stressed out and tempted to throw in the towel (but I won’t) First pic 464...I’ve only been using 464.. I’ve heated to 185, poured in FO at 6,8, & 10% stir slowly 2 mins. I’ve poured at various temps...I’ve also recently mixed at 120 degrees and poured after stirring. I CAN NOT GET A DECENT HOT THROW. However cold throw is awesome. I’ve tested wicks (also why there’s no wicks in these pics so I can do that testing method Jeff Standley has shown us) I’ve tried eco 10, CD 8,10,12 and today I’m about to try the RRD 37. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. However my soy wax melts are super successful! Please give me tips and guidance for those of you are having great success with your candles hot throw. Thanks soo much.however my candles on a candle warmer are pretty on point once it all liquifies. But not everyone has a candle warmer.

I've never had this problem with 464. until the higher fragrance load. I haven't burned it yet, just the CT after cooling this go around.

Great analogy. I just want to have the best throw for my customers. and have highly scented candles. Also, I my house is open concept, living, dining, and kitcehn all one huge space, so I'd like it for myself as well. the 6% dont seem to be cutting it for me in that regard.

My most recent candles and melts I’ve been using a higher fragrance oil percentage however the scent is either faint or nonexistent. Soy 464 Can have up to 10% fragrance load I’ve been putting in 9% last few batches instead of 6%. And my wax melts is specifically for melts and tarts soy 494 and that is up to 12% fragrance oil. I was previously using 8.4% and now after they cool there’s no cold sent throw or barely if any I’m putting in the fragrance at 185 stir lightly couple minutes and pouring around 140 for candles and 160 for melts as instructed. These aren’t light fragrances either High maintenance, ocean, Amber and driftwood. Is it possible it could be the pouring picture I’m using Do we need to switch those out every so often I’ve only been using it since April I always wipe it out and clean with alcohol I don’t know what it could be.

Anyone notice a difference between using GB Soy 464 for wax melts versus GB Soy 494 for melts & tarts? I know the 494 can't be used for candles, because they won't burn, but just curious if it's worth the extra cost and shipping. I know 10% max for 464 fragrance, and the 494 is 12% max......I've used both and I can't really tell a difference. Seeking other opinions.

Where do you guys get air freshener base to make linen and fabric spray that doesn't contain alcohol? Like water based. I see a lot of bases, but most say don't ship via air. I want one that's safe all the way around. Ideas?

Does anyone know of someplace you can buy some wax/candle warmers and turn around and sell them for a few dollars more? I've been searching....

If you go to candlescience.com and search for their wick guide chart, it'll let you put in what time of wax you use and the diameter or the jar and they''ll recommend a wick, and then the runner up. For instance, I use 464 soy, and the diameter of my container is between 2.2" - 2.69" and they recommended the CD8... and it worked! https://www.candlescience.com/learning/wick-guide

I'd like some advice please. Ive been using the specific soy wax for tarts and melts (494) to make my wax melts. I've been using 0.75 lbs wax with 1 oz bottles of FO. I let it cool for 8 hours, then close the lid. Let it sit a week and then heat in wax warmer. Myself, and people I've let test for me have concluded that they have amazing cold throw, however when heated,n the smell is fantastic and strong., but only last a couple days (off during the day turn on in the evening) for approximately 4-6 hrs at a time per single cube. Then you can't really smell it anymore. Do you have any advice on what I may be doing wrong? As I'd like to start selling these. I'm mixing color at 185, then immediately adding the FO, and pouring at 160 as recommended. Or possibly does a single cube only last so long with the scent?

I use Golden Brand soy for wax and tarts specifically made for wax and tarts it wont even burn for a candle. and have not had this problem at all they always smooth. i get it from candle science. mix FO at 185, pour at 160.