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Altore

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Everything posted by Altore

  1. Hi there, After many tests, indeed it is very difficult. We all wish the batches were similar! The simplest thing for all those who are confronted with this is to provide a larger quantity of wax and to do some tests. Good luck to all and thank you very much
  2. I just got the results. With 2.5% molded rapeseed wax I get the same texture as my old batch. Has anyone tried this idea before?
  3. "Tall Tail", c'est vrai que les différences peuvent etre choquant!😮
  4. I see we all face this. And that it is better to order in large quantities. "Mythreindeer", I also received this time almost porridge wax. My wax is a mixture of coconut and soy. What do you think of the idea of: Order a set of wax. ith this batch, analyze the appearance of the wax. Its hardness... Burn an unscented candle and record all burn information. When a new batch arrives, analyze the wax and add a very low percentage (about 1% - 2%) to reproduce the texture of the old batch. Make an unscented candle compared to burns. So we will be sure that on the collection it works? What do you think? Thank you for sharing and good luck to all. It's not easy for us.
  5. Hello to all candle lovers! I start this post because I think it is an important data for all manufacturers. I have great difficulty with this. I received a new batch of container soy wax. Over the course of my orders, each batch is different. According to my research it is the oil level that varies. This last batch is squishy and much softer. My hardest batch is quite hard. The last one is completely soft and can be cut with a knife without any problem. All my candles are affected! And nothing works well. What should we do when we are faced with this case? How do you do? - Testing again to balance your wicks? - Or add an additive to stabilize the wax from the start. I tested with molded rapeseed, I found a harder material with which I calibrated my wicks. Have a starting reference. For information, barely 1 to 2 percent can be enough. 5% is already too much. What do you think of this idea of doing a test with each batch of wax to adjust the hardness of the wax by varying by just about 2%? And to find correct burns? Thank you very much and be patient.....
  6. Hello, I hope you are doing well in these times. I come back to you to share my results and conclusions for others who would encounter this problem: Following these problems: - Test with other suppliers of FO without dyes dosed strongly at 10%, identical wicks: All the candles worked very well. - Candle test with dye, identical wicks, no FO: Work well - With addition of FO = Problem from a dosage of 7% (6% works well) - Candle test even wick with FO 9% ..8% ..10% and dye from another supplier: Works well. - Large candle test 3 wicks with or without dye and without FO: Work well Conclusion: My problems seem to come from: - FO - Association for an FO between the wick, the FO, and the dye which came to saturate the wick. Over time the flame decreases, the wick can no longer give its normal power. With another dye from another supplier dosed lower, it works well. Thank you all for your help.
  7. OKAY, Thanks for your help. It is not easy to start with problems like this. 🤯 I will proceed methodically to find and inform in return. If other people are concerned. As for color, I don't think so because I have this problem on my three wicks without color. (with FO) Thank you
  8. Small glass Diameter 2.55906 inch Left: FO 9% wick 33/18 (powerful wick indicated for burning with a glass diameter of 3.93701 inch)! Right: F0 8% wick 27/16 ( indicated for burns with a diameter of 3.14961 inch I'm going crazy!
  9. 299/5000 Here is an example. While at the beginning the flames are large, the pool of cast iron too large (max 0.708661 inch). This indicates to me that it is necessary to lower the size of the wicks because it is only the first burns. Then flames so small that the wax is barely melted on the surface of the basin.
  10. Thank you very much for your opinion 😉 Perhaps the wicks are too big and drown as they become choked for oxygen further in the burn? - The flames are so small to lack oxygen. I had tested on a small container with small wicks and I had a large tunnel from the start which indicated a size of wick too small. No basin despite more than 4 hours of burning. With very strong wicks (almost the most powerful): very small flame. I have this phenomenon with a particular FO or I can't find the wick size. I have just made new tests currently in rest with lower loads of FO. could be just too much fragrance - I'm starting to follow this answer seriously. I also wonder if the fact of making a nice surface with the heat gun would not decrease the load of FO at the beginning which would allow a correct start before the problem occurs. Is it possible? have you done a basic test of your candles with unscented wax? - No, very good idea! I'm betting it's the FO. When there is too much of it (or an awkward one) that's exactly what happens. - Thanks 😉 I am suspecting you are using KeraSoy with TCR wick both of which are not available in US. - TCR wicks are flat cotton wicks. With paper core - It is not Kerasoy from Kerax but a wax made in France 100% vegetable. Other brands use this wax successfully here. For now the FO come from candle-shack in England. Large containers where this problem is systematic are 4.33 inch in diameter. I use test bits of 27/16 or 24/14. With an FO, the flames had become so small that you could barely see them. I will try to send photos. Thank you and good day
  11. Hello, I just joined this forum and am happy to share with you in this great community. I often read a few pages of exchanges to learn. I have been working on the molded candle for about 3 years and have been launching myself for a few months in the scented candle containing it. What a strange world! I am faced with a strange phenomenon during my wicking tests. Do you have any opinions? This phenomenon is systematic in large containers type 3 wicks. With two different scents the same problem At the beginning of the container I have large flames. I would be tempted to say that my wicks are too big with too large pools of cast iron. Knowing that this is only the beginning of the burn and that the rest will be even hotter. But during about the third burn or half of the container the flames become very small. Really very small. Without cutting the wicks at any time. I use TCR natural waxed wicks. FO: 10% in these models. With or without color, the phenomenon is the same. Vegetable soy wax. I also have the impression of having this phenomenon in smaller containers. Do you have an idea? Thank you and good day Fabrice
  12. Hello! I'm Fabrice, from the city of Lyon in France. I have been working the candle for about 3 years. Thank you all, for all these exchanges. You share with humility and I learn patience thanks to all of you in this strange world that is the candle. Happy to meet enthusiasts here!
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