CandleMaker3D

My custom DIY castle candle design finally worked. My designs can even be more complicated now to as well thanks to a candle additive that works above 140F to make the candle wax even harder or make it more like a brick alone so it doesn't fall apart as easy. Don't want to advertise what it is though. So I didn't put that here.

I could at some point. I'm still kind of just taking my time. There are millions upon millions of designs, but I'm not sure what to even go at times for now at least.

I failed a bit on this one. I made the walls too long and the corners are a bit too narrow, but my next design should work I think.

On 6/17/2020 at 8:41 AM, TallTayl said:

Neat.  Stack several together for a TARDIS.

I've always had my own version. TTA = Time Travel Agency (not real - obviously, but to state.)

My sci-fi... We are all time travelers. Actions are constantly playing out and time is constantly moving forward (not talking about how humans measure time such as seconds, minutes, hours, and/or days). The agency (fake) or the time travel agency (fake) was created to stop custom time travel and/or the ability to time travel to any point at any time. One moment I left the toaster on in 2238 A.D. and I completely forgot about that. I have to leave for now.

I quit the sci-fi stuff years back though myself. I don't own a TV and I don't watch doctor who. I always did like that box though.

Got a castle candle design coming along as well as another design to as well for now.

The candle is blue to make it easier to see. It should be white though. I missed one part on the top right.

6 hours ago, TallTayl said:

How about a piece of nylon stocking to polish it off?

I'm a guy (straight - so obviously don't have those around for whatever reason) myself and I'd have to order something like that off amazon if I were to go that route. Don't want to order nylon stockings though to clean the candles.

I don't want 10 of those laying around as I've lost the first 9 then have someone come over and the other 9 randomly appear to them as a single straight guy myself. Even if I say "I promise I don't wear these and these are for cleaning candles only" I still don't want to explain it over and over again as a story. It's also not something I'd see in the long run myself.

I could 3D print in nylon and try that route to as well.

Not a bad idea, but I'd want something more that I could have around long term. Rather than having like a collection of 50-100 nylon stockings at some point down the road. Have a box or a tub of old ones and someone is helping me move and they drop the box which reveals roughly 50-100 nylon stockings.

I'm a button down shirt type of guy. I just really like candles or candle making. I'm somewhat eccentric myself at least, but having nylon stockings around would be pushing it completely especially if I did collect a large collection over time. Not a bad idea though just wouldn't fit with me as a guy.

Is there a way to clean the white residue or white powder off the candles that come out of the candle molds? I think it's the spray (candle remover spray to remove candles out of candle molds) I'm using that heats up then dries to leave a white residue on the outside of a candle.

I want to soak the candles in luke warm water for a while and give that a try. The candle wax I use is paraffin wax that's very hard and it won't break easily. It's one of the candle waxes you can drop and nothing really happens or it won't break for the most part even or even chip.

Anyone know?

One website says 145-150F

Another says 140F-165F

Another says 175F-185F

Another say 160F

One of the other ones says 175F-185F as well.

I can never tell myself.

On 1/18/2020 at 10:34 AM, Karen Ov said:

Cool design though 

I did this one to as well. I know why they are failing to as well.

It's strange I wanted to know how to make my candle wax a bit harder. I'm basically using a brick candle wax currently that I can't break easily and I found out the blue dye block I'm using makes it stickier.

I had more success on this candle, but this candle failed as well. It's due mostly to how sticky the blue dye block is melted in with the candle wax. The blue dye in the candle wax sticks to the mold more and I have to make sure I'm not using too much as well as applying my mold release spray at the right time to as well.

This second time it should work out just fine.

I live in a cold climate (almost in an arctic tundra realm even if just at times) and yesterday the high was -1F/-2F (around here) and the low was -15/-20F. It gets extremely dry here to as well when it's this cold out.

I buy soap that has 1/4th lotion in the final product. I'm wondering is it easy to add that amount of lotion into a bar of soap?

I make candles usually, but was kind of curious about soap making.

I am trying to get into more complex designs and the candle I made didn't work out at all for the most part.

I made multiple mistakes during the process of making my candle.

Decided I would share anyways. My candle didn't work out properly for the most part. I know I messed up making the candle. It's not the worlds worse candle though I figure myself.

The top turned out fine, but it was the sides that I screw up on a bit.

On 1/10/2020 at 8:42 AM, Peggy T said:

 Is there a video  that shows how to use this to center the candles? What do the pins do? I don't know a thing about 3D printing but I have free access to one at a local maker space AND I could use a centering tool!!

I had to finish some stuff yesterday and I even took the photos, but I forgot to upload them.

These are quick photos I took, but it should explain how to use the tool well enough.

21 hours ago, Peggy T said:

Is there a video that shows how to use this to center the candles? What do the pins do? I don't know a thing about 3D printing but I have free access to one at a local maker space AND I could use a centering tool!!

I'll get a picture or two. It's pretty simple once you've seen it set up.

On 1/8/2020 at 12:41 AM, ErronB said:

Printed it out earlier, the big round middle part needs to be a touch thinner, it doesn't fit through the hole on mine.

 

(Printed on Prusa MK3)

You were technically right. I uploaded the wrong file.

Mine is supposed to be a .98.

The one I uploaded is 1.00.

Going to fix this thanks.

May not be anything incredible, but I thought I might share. This is the first time I've used a color other than white and a scent to as well. The scent is almost perfect. I used a measuring tea spoon and I need to added two more next time (one for each candle) to stir in.

My melt pool almost worked out perfectly to as well for the first one. Again nothing special, but I thought I'd share.

1. White Dye Block

2. Blue Dye Block - Going to make them navy blue or some dark blue next time.

3. French Vanilla (Scent)

4. Blessed Exorcism Salts added

1 hour ago, ErronB said:

Printed it out earlier, the big round middle part needs to be a touch thinner, it doesn't fit through the hole on mine.

 

(Printed on Prusa MK3)

You can either make it thinner by taking off an outer edge in some cad(d) program or sand it down with some sand paper. I print this at fine detail myself though since it's a tool as well.

I sanded down mine with some sand paper though to make it fit better.

Oh ok. I wasn't sure.

You can also set wicks very fast if you know how to use the candle centering tool that I created. Set the pins in originally and you can do 10 large jars in probably a minute or so if not in less time than that. All you have to do is lift it up and put a new wick in the center then glue (stickers) it then place it again and only move it like an inch each time.

@BusyBee

You posted in mrposey's thread and I didn't want to hijack that thread so I started a new thread.

I don't have the time to create and/or modify anything myself right now. I'm currently working on other projects myself or I'm too busy with my own life right now. I did re-upload my custom candle centering tool that you can download for free below.  You can then edit it in a CAD(D) program or modify the design to your liking with a CAD(D) program for what you want to use it for. After you are done modifying it to your liking you can either 3D print (buy a 3D printer) it yourself at that point or have someone else 3D print it for you. There are businesses out there that 3D print designs. I'm not sure how much it costs myself off the top of my head. You'd have to do some searching around for that.

https://grabcad.com/library/custom-diy-candle-centering-tool-1

Anyone know of a great strategy for air pockets?

I can usually get rid of most of them though.

I get problems 10-20% of the time and 80%-90% of the time this works.

I guess. I'm very 7 Deadly Sins at times myself. I'd want to have very well done candles, but avoid pride or lust (desire for anything too far in the luxury / material realm).

That link is at least in my realm.

I just make candles myself (try to keep it super peaceful spiritually and/or humble for that matter - try to at least) - nothing special. pride alone or bragging for that matter is too far for me even, but I do like to share.

I struggle with the word "luxury" myself due to materialism alone. Plus I'm more or so a Christian / Catholic tech guy myself (not very luxurious).

On 12/27/2019 at 5:13 PM, Testing123 said:

very nice. invest in good photography and branding and you can market as luxury, avant garde candles

I have a 4k camera that does 30 FPS. 3840x2160 - 4k / 2160p

I'm getting to a great starting point is what I figure, but I want really well done designs myself.

"luxury" / "avant garde" / "candles"

"custom" / "avant garde" / candles"

Not luxury go custom at that point. Some of them were just starts to. I'd want to do 1-2 years of designing, but always sell regular candles on the side (at some point). Just got done making some regular candles with Blessed Exorcism Salts added (Christian / Catholic side of mine) in a regular or standard glass mason candle jars.

$19 ($29 max) for a custom 3x3 candle is what I'd aim for myself. I don't want to go luxury or anything expensive (should be able to get by just fine). I want to stay more or so within the realm of the general consumer.

On 10/31/2019 at 6:10 PM, Pam W said:

CandleMaker:  can you repost the pic??

On 10/22/2019 at 5:37 PM, barbaranj said:

Same here ☹️

I reposted 1 (other one is new) - I started over myself. I got to a point I needed to be at myself then started over again.

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Note:

Can't edit the post above.

Also in the second image that top hasn't been sanded down yet. I use a 5 inch orbit sander on the tops. 3D printing to orbit sanders it's kind of strange I guess. I'm an oddity in the candle making world I bet for now due to using an orbit sander alone if not just being a 3D printer type (use 3D printers to print my designs).

I started over with a new site (changed the domain name) and everything. It's a hobby and I wanted to re-do everything and start over again.

This is the only one I have for now currently. It's the 2020 custom candle design. This 2020 design looks like my 2019 design.

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Basically started candle making a year and half ago or June/July of 2018 time frame. I've had a ton of problems along the way and many redesigns. I'll hit my first two years in June/July 2020 or so time frame. I won't have as many problems with many of my designs this time as I got much of it figured out even the warping for the 3D plastic I'm printing with. It had a warping problem since it prints at about 225C or 437F and the cooling down process was causing problems alone or warping problems since it was cooling too fast. This time should be much easier to deal with as I've learned roughly 100 ways if not 500 (feels this way) ways on how not to make a custom CAD (3D printed) candle.

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I had this one to as well. I'm basically after the first year mark or so and wanted to redesign everything and since I have so many problems out of the way already it was more or so the right time to do just that.

Here's basically my only candle for now though or my 2020 custom candle design.

2020 custom candle design again

9 hours ago, xxxAlpha71xxx said:

I'm playing around with some of your designs (and thank you very much!) but I was actually looking at 4 oz tins.  I was working on my first top to bottom burns and it was looking like I was going to have a lot of wax left on the sides and in the corners at the bottom.  Was thinking about glue to lower the wick to give it a bit longer to burn and clean up that wax.  However, they burned *much* longer than I expected they were going to and cleaned themselves up by the time they were done.

 

I tried glueing some wicks in using some hot glue my wife had.  The minute I went to center them after the pour I ended up holding them in my hand at the glue didn't stand up to 170 very well.  That's why I was looking at high temp glue.  However, as the problem I was expecting didn't appear I'm just going to stick with what I was doing.

I'll let you know how things go with the centering device once I get it made.  If it works as well as it appears that it will it might be something you should consider marketing. Those centering devices that CS sells have limited functionality.  The manufacturer is supposedly willing to resize them but the emails I sent to the included address all bounced so I eventually ended up sizing it to the sizes I needed myself (yay, Dremel).

I bought this for $9 or $10 (tax included).

https://www.amazon.com/Glue-Gun-TopElek-Temperature-Projects/dp/B0776MFZ2W/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hot+glue+gun&qid=1566959424&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I pour at 162-175 F or so.

1. I add a bit extra around the bottom so it kind of comes out past the bottom of the wick.

2. I apply a great deal of pressure to as well.

let it sit there for a minute to as well.

If you are using my design for this (guessing you might be). I recommend regular / standard glue sticks for the most part (not cheap ones or something that's a gamble).