pughaus

@Testing123 I use the candlewic dyes- I get deep colors, including black, and they are odorless! https://www.candlewic.com/store/product.aspx?q=c73,p742&title=Black----Highly-Concentrated-Liquid-Dye-

Virtually no one, outside of a candle making forum, cares one bit about perfect wax to glass adhesion.

Is the new additive "paraffin" ? 😉

The "much larger" HT on the double wicker is probably due in large part to the 2 wicks ( despite the fact that it's not wicked optimally. In fact, it sounds downright unsafe.) Have you made a 2 or 3 wick candle? The throw can be... overwhelming. I can't bear to be in the room with some of mine after an hour!

Personally, if I was suffering from that kind of skin irritation, I'd make my own simple salve with organic hemp derived cbd + organic coconut oil. The cbd should help the pain and the inflammation. I'd avoid adding anything else to it (like an essential oil) for fear it might aggravate the delicate skin.

As TT mentioned, when in doubt group in color blocks to limit the visual chaos. I'm a true believer in the "stack em high watch em fly" approach but it's important that the "stacks" are the same item/color. I'm guessing many (most?) of your customers are 1st attracted to their favorite brand of beer anyway so displaying in groups by brand (color) should help them hone in.

works fine for me!

I was never able to wick that wax to my satisfaction. Constant supply chain issues and the need to add to that wax to make it usable all turned me off. I use my own blend now out of readily available ingredients and IMO have a superior wax that performs more reliably for me. And is easy to wick. Plus, I really like knowing exactly what's in my wax and how much.

I moved on from that wax a long time ago and would never use it today. Not a fan.

Ah the rare venus flytrap candle. An extremely difficult to achieve effect using an advanced methodology known only to elders of the youtubetka tribe.

I'm not sure there's a good,logical reason for it, but I do tend to test htps + cds first. I prefer them and use them often in larger tumbler type vessels. In narrow straight jars, with that wax, you're going to need a lot of options though. That wax can be tricky to wick in a narrow jar, there's really no margin for error in them. The wax melts so easily and those narrow jars trap heat so well.

Depending on FO I've used all these in those jars with their coco wax: Htp 73, LX 12-14, Premier 730, 35 and 740, CD5

This is incorrect. There are many manufacturers making all sorts of things like bathrobes, cosmetic bags, wallets, backpacks..etc- that have licensing agreements with Disney and those manufacturers sell their lines to various retailers...Some products may end up in swanky little boutiques, others may end up in a fleamarket booth. Neither selling location is illegal or has any bearing on whether or not there's a copyright violation. There are no "licensed retailers" for such products.

Interesting- so the ceramic kind of absorbs and dissipates the heat? Now that you mention it, I did have some trouble wicking my concrete tumblers. I had to use a bigger wick than usual but finding one that wasn't so big it began to smoke at the end was tricky.

LOL that should be on the banner image of this board 😉

I think wood wicks are here to stay. I wouldn't call them a fad, more of a niche. @ForrestI haven't noticed a difference in vessel material but have noticed more pronounced hot throw from a single wicked 8 oz straight jar than I do from the identical FO /wax combo in a single wicked 3 x 3" tumbler. The relatively narrow/tall jar has a kind of chimney effect that seems to concentrate and then push the fragrance up and out - more so than the wider mouthed tumbler. I'm not describing that well, but hopefully you get the gist. I noticed the same effect in a 3" x 4 " tall tumbler. I could totally be imagining that, but to me it seems to be a pretty noticeable effect.

I've only bought a couple of sample FOs from them. They're too expensive to play around with IMO and they don't make sampling easy or inexpensive. I've used their coco para soy wax, but not the apricot one so I can't speak to that. The coco wax is, like I said, very easy to pour at almost any temp and will give you smooth creamy candles with perfect adhesion ( until you burn it, that is) It's also very soft and liquifies very quickly when burning. Never saw a sink hole. It's such a soft wax, they are not an issue. It's a great beginner wax I think, because of its ease of use. I had to get used to a fast and deep MP, especially in narrower containers like an 8 oz straight jar. I found it benefits from a 1 week cure or more- not for throw so much, but for accurate wick testing. With some FOs a wick down 1 size was needed on candles that had longer to cure. If I had to re engineer the Lab Co wax, I'd add more soy to it and a bit less coconut oil. The Lab Co is a little too soft and quick to liquify for my taste. It's so soft it could double as a hand creme. LOL It's not much different from straight Coconut OIl 92. However in wider containers that easy to melt quality can be a plus! You do not need to use 9% FO-- you will have a much easier time wicking and getting a nice, clean burn with 6, 7 , 8% tops. That's all I got!

The Lab Co coco wax is the fastest- to- set -up wax I've used. It starts to cool/cloud up almost immediately after pouring. Your pour temp is fine. You can pour it cooler too- 155- 170 ish. It's a very forgiving wax wrt to pour temps. It's hard not to make a perfect looking candle with their waxes.

That cloudiness is just the candle cooling and part of the process of solidifying from clear to cloudy to slushy looking translucency to solid.

Looks like a nice clean burn and I would not call that a huge amount of residue at all. More like a little cling.

I agree with TT, that sure looks like an all soy candle to me. If there's coconut oil in there, there doesn't seem to be enough of it to be of any benefit.

@CandleRushI found with this wax that it needed to cure not only for FO testing but for accurate wick testing. In several FOs a wick would struggle then drown out entirely on the very 1st burn, if tested in less than a 7 + day cure. But if given a week or more, that wick would be perfect. Did you see the same thing?

@KrisS what on earth is epoline? That's a new one for me!

It does have paraffin.