NightLight

Have to gripe about WSP. Ordered and they are not cheap. Worst fragrances ever.

Hi there, You should post a list of what you have for sale. That would be helpful.

Couldn’t you make liquid soap and dilute heavily for wool wash?

It’s not really a container wax. You won’t like it. Additive it’s okay, it my favorite.

The prices are insane. But competition will happen.

Also many of the fragrance oils are geared towards soapers not candle makers. You do have to search out the gems for candles. Some are hot and others are not!

Pricing now is very high. I hate their free shipping garbage. It just adds up to higher prices.

Well now the change is every company they bought you can shop on WSP. For example, Just scents on WSP site now as others. KIND OF A MONOPOLY

464 doesn’t always play well with other waxes. Best is naked soy like 415 which is additive free IMHO. Blending can take a long time to get what you want, and there are a million waxes and additives to achieve candle nirvana Ask me how I know

Also if you didn’t mix in color into dirty base well enough and then added your water, you may get discoloration.

Wait at least two weeks, then you can try and sand off issues. Now some of this comes with the territory. How you mixed your cement and poured. Some appearance issues may have come from clumps of sand that were not stirred into base well enough

I don’t use FB, can ya list them here?

That’s neat. Love that, and interesting

I don’t see how you could get a candle to burn safely and without spillage if you don’t have a shell. I would be very upset if my candle blew out like that all over table. I would go back to three and keep closer in center and educate customers why you had “safety” shell.

https://classicbells.com/soap/citrate.asp Sodium citrate or Potassium citrate in soap What does it do in soap? Sodium citrate or potassium citrate is a chemical that can be purchased and added to your soap. Citrate is also created if you add citric acid or citrus juice to your soap. Whether you make sodium citrate or potassium citrate depends on whether the lye is NaOH or KOH. It is the citrate that is helpful in your soap. Citrate reduces the amount of sticky soap scum created when lye soap is used in water by chelating (binding up) the metals that create the scum. Tests by Kevin Dunn, author of the Scientific Soapmaking book, showed citrate may not be effective against rancidity (also known as DOS, dreaded orange spots), but informal discussion amongst handcrafted soap makers suggest citrate does help to reduce rancidity as well as soap scum. Most soap makers use a much higher dosage to reduce soap scum than Dunn used in his experiments, and this may explain the difference in results. Citrate, sodium gluconate, and EDTA are all chelators, so if one does not appeal, you might consider using one of the others. Citrate and sodium gluconate are arguably more "crunchy" than EDTA, so pick one of these if a "natural" soap is your preference. How much should I use? Typical dosage for sodium citrate is 13 g to 39 g sodium citrate powder for every 1,000 g fats (1.3% to 3.9% of total fat weight). Use more for hard water, less for soft. Typical dosage for potassium citrate is 16 g to 48 g potassium citrate powder for every 1,000 g fats (1.6% to 4.8% of total fat weight). Again, use more for hard water, less for soft. How much lye does it neutralize? None! DO NOT add additional lye if you are using citrate. Extra lye is only needed if you are using citric acid or citrus juice. How should I add it to my soap? Dissolve the citrate in about 2 times its weight of water. Stick blend that mixture into your oils. Advanced tip -- Make your own sodium citrate Sodium citrate can be made at home using citric acid and baking soda. GalaxyMLP presented this method here -- http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=55723 Be sure to read the whole thread to learn about making the sodium citrate with and without heating and about using the oven to gently dry the citrate mixture into a powder.

I use sodium citrate for cooking cheese sauces and cp soap works great. Much easier than using citric acid me thinks I use with sodium lactate as well.

MICHAELS IS OPENING UP A MARKET PLACE FOR HANDMADE GOODS!

CD9 HUGE. Ass TT says drop back and start testing with CDNs 3,4,5. Premiers 740- 750. If you are going to test with larger jars for product line, you should test with those jars otherwise it’s going to be testing all over again and depending on jar maybe even two wicks. I didn’t love Coco83 by itself too problematic.

Yes the Meltpool will be too much and drown wick. Large meltpool drowning wick. You can do a couple tester try three wicks and test. It’s good learning experiment. Make testers a little more than half filled in jars. All jars same type.

Yes this can happen. Meltpool drowning wick. I don’t go for a big Meltpool. Just enough because as candle burns if you have large Meltpool on top its going to be huge down halfway.

Most formulas for that are 20-25 percent coconut oil to beeswax. Depends on what properties you want in burn and then you would need to test 76 degree coconut oil versus 92. My few test I didn’t like the blend. Still shrunk. Pure beeswax is great.

Retesting C3 wax. It’s very different than what I first tried it and it was full of horrible bubbles. CD wicks yes they burn in it. New Htps? I used to use HTP but now the wicks are different. I have Eco and Premiers. Not crazy on Ecos because not too many in between sizes.

Youtube has several videos that will apply to your problems

I have not had the best results in tests with BW waxes. I tried many of their waxes but did not get results. The only one I sort of liked was their paraffin bought at Aztec because it comes in pellets. It can be a handy blender if you have a wax in opaque jars. It shrinks but ease of use is good.

Litsea as TT says is good. Super lemony, it does discolor. I do like anchoring with patchouli.