Jump to content

Bia

Registered Users Plus
  • Posts

    68
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Bia

  1. The weird thing is all of the black debris/particles are coming from my FIRST burns and the wicks were pretty short...so I can't even blame burnt pieces from previous burn...

    One even went out on it's own (2,4), I think from the wax pool being so polluted, it could not draw up wax through the wick to keep the flame (?).  I must be doing something really wrong.  I'm testing another batch going smaller in wick diameter.  These results are unacceptable.  I'd want my money back lol

     

     

    1.png

    2.png

    3.png

    4.png

    5.png

  2. On 1/24/2018 at 5:39 PM, shicks said:

    Last year I tested so many wood wicks I did not get that debris I was careful to when candle rehardened after a burn turn upside down by a trash can and punch off burned part but most  users are not going to do that I had the best luck with lonestar woodwicks more so than all others I did not nor do I know what a booster is though what is a booster I have used all the wiodwick companies I even tested the wood circles you wrap a cotton wick with 

     

    iin my wax the throw was better with wood wick however the melted wax took on a browner look and the cold throw of candle after a burning was not pleasant to me with c3 i got way more crackle with 6 percent oil than higher percentages 

     I used a medium woodwick  in a 8oz mason jar and large in a 13.5 tumbler some fragrance oils struggled after setting a few months I had a friend burn a candle tha was older and she had trouble keeping lit so I pulled older ones off shelve and even though they tested fine at 2 weeks after months some were struggling so I got nervous about reliability and went back to traditional wick 

     

    This worries me.  What did you end up doing?  I am also getting black debris, discoloration in the pool, and different cold throw from the burnt candle.  BUT not every candle... I was really hoping to use wood wicks but they seem a inconsistent.  Got them directly from Wooden Wick Co. I've tried the original and the whisper/smooth wick.  check my pics.

     

  3. On 2/3/2018 at 3:46 PM, pughaus said:

    forgot to add pic!

    origburn.jpg

    HI,

    Thanks for sharing.  I was looking for info because I am also testing wood wicks from wooden candle co and on the second burn a few of them got debris in them.  see pic.  One also discolored the wax - got darker (ugly).  I was very excited about a wood wick line but I don't want it to keep getting dirty.  I'm using the original line (single ply) because I use a soy blend that due the paraffin content burns pretty easily.  The boosters were too strong but I did not see debris...  What are your thoughts/suggestions?  Thanks so much.

    ps. the bad thing is the wicks that are leaving debris are the ones that are creating the best pools, although they are only 1/4 inch deep.  I would like them to be 1/2in deep.

  4. On 8/30/2018 at 9:17 AM, lightmyfire said:

    I'm dabbling with wooden wicks now, just in one container.  I ordered from The Wooden Wick Company (woodenwick.com).  I ordered their sample pack for $29.95-they don't charge shipping on this item.  As a side note, their website is extremely informative (including videos and lots of wick charts) and their packaging is gorgeous.  I'm going to use some of the recommended wicks in my container this weekend and see what happens.  The wooden wicks I've tried before have a tendency to turn my white wax brown (I don't use dye).    I can update when I do a test burn.

    how did your testing go? I have been testing with wooden wicks and noticed some black particles in my burn pool.  looks like burnt dust.  Is this what happened to yours?  It got like this after 3hours of burning.  I dislike this "dirty" appearance.  

    IMG_1619.jpg

    IMG_1621.jpg

  5. On 7/18/2018 at 7:26 PM, TallTayl said:

    i threw away my package (grumble grumble). Pretty sure it is this one https://www.menards.com/main/paint/adhesives-glue-tape/glue/glue-guns-glue-sticks/surebonder-reg-skillet-pan-glue-1-lb/b-2001/p-1444430629385-c-14002.htm?tid=5031253741023570089&ipos=11

     

    The pellets are pretty white, not tan though as in the description. Softening point is about 200*F

    • High strength/superior bonding/minimal stringing
    • For use in Surebonder® #805 glue skillet
    • 1 pound bag
    • Ideal for artificial floral arrangements and various craft projects
    • Softening Point: 176°F to 212°F
    • Color: light tan

     

    I’d give them a good long, hard test in your containers before selling. These definitely are sturdier thank typical glue sticks, but nowhere near permatex tough. I use in tins and am fully satisfied with it for that container.  If a wick wanders a bit in a tin it’s not as much of a deal breaker as in glass. 

     

    As an aside, permatex red gasket sealer is available in most auto parts sections of big box stores. Great stuff for when it absolutely positive

    y has to stay stuck. 

     

    TallTayl,

     

    After the candle has been used up, can the wick tab be removed at all and if so, how?

     

    I usually use wick tabs but they do not glue sometimes and I really like your idea, but I need to make sure the customer can take off the tab after burning the entire candle to use the jar for other things.  I don't want the tab to be so superbonded to the glass or ceramic jar that the jar will be ruined while the customer tries to remove the tab.

  6. On 7/12/2018 at 6:57 PM, TallTayl said:

    I discovered high temp glue with a little hot pot to dip wick tabs into. No strings and no picking up putting down the gun. My trigger finger was getting tendinitis (no joke). 

     

    https://www.menards.com/main/paint/adhesives-glue-tape/glue/glue-guns-glue-sticks/surebonder-reg-4-diameter-40w-glue-skillet/805/p-1444430633156-c-14002.htm?tid=-842603709105402187&ipos=7

    F60F1946-1808-4133-B27A-23C207AD61F6.jpeg

     

    it uses high temp pellets. Saves me a ton of time wicking tins. That glue is stuck on their tight pretty quickly. No strings either. I tried to set it on fire to make sure it isn’t flammable. Nope it’s not. 

     

    when I used wick stickers half the time they’d pull away from the tin. But when they stuck they were on good. I used a heat gun to melt the adhesive and release them. 

     

    Permatex red gasket sticks VERY well, but it takes a day to cure it. I just don’t have that kind of time or space to lay out containers to sit for a day. 

     

     

    Also can I use this for glass and ceramic vessels?  I would like the client to be able to remove the wick and tab after candle has burned completely and utilize the jar for something else. Thanks for your help!

  7. On 7/12/2018 at 6:57 PM, TallTayl said:

    I discovered high temp glue with a little hot pot to dip wick tabs into. No strings and no picking up putting down the gun. My trigger finger was getting tendinitis (no joke). 

     

    https://www.menards.com/main/paint/adhesives-glue-tape/glue/glue-guns-glue-sticks/surebonder-reg-4-diameter-40w-glue-skillet/805/p-1444430633156-c-14002.htm?tid=-842603709105402187&ipos=7

    F60F1946-1808-4133-B27A-23C207AD61F6.jpeg

     

    it uses high temp pellets. Saves me a ton of time wicking tins. That glue is stuck on their tight pretty quickly. No strings either. I tried to set it on fire to make sure it isn’t flammable. Nope it’s not. 

     

    when I used wick stickers half the time they’d pull away from the tin. But when they stuck they were on good. I used a heat gun to melt the adhesive and release them. 

     

    Permatex red gasket sticks VERY well, but it takes a day to cure it. I just don’t have that kind of time or space to lay out containers to sit for a day. 

     

     

    do you use the Surebonder skillet/pan blue in pellets? I looked into it and it does not say it's high temperature.  Just want to make sure. 

    this is the greatest suggestion!  Thank you!!

  8. On 7/11/2018 at 3:34 PM, iansmommaya said:

    I see posts in this area a lot. Have you reached out to Candlescience to ask?

    I have not asked them.  I figured they would never tell me bc they'd want me to buy through them.  but I could risk it :)

  9. On 2/26/2018 at 2:11 PM, Clear Black said:

    As of now, my 16oz candles cost $7 to make. A few of the items are pricey, but I hope to drive that cost more towards the $5 per mark when I can afford to buy raw mats in bigger bulk. So for now im at the $7 per mark. Im thinking they will retail between $18/$20. So if they cost me $7 to make and retail for $20, what should the wholesale buyer be getting from the $13 profit on each candle? Would it be $3 me, $10 buyer? Does the buyer typically get the larger profit portion? Hope this makes sense in any way. I know a bunch of you folks have wholesale accounts and can maybe shed some light here. I really do think the $7 per candle cost is hurting me when it comes to wholesale and I am ok with that knowing I can further cut costs in the future by making bigger material purchases.

     

    Thoughts?

    Great question.  Thank you for asking.  Lots of insights from the responses!

  10. On 3/7/2018 at 1:56 AM, LitUp said:

     

    $7 is a very high wholesale cost to have, and if that is your cost then the minimum you want to sell it for is $14 wholesale and the retail will have a markup of 2-2.3x so $28 to  $32.20. Keystone aka a 2x retail markup used to be the standard but more and more stores are going as high as 2.3x markup in order to make enough money to survive. We stepped into wholesale full time last year and went from being carried in 5 stores locally to 140 in the US along with stores in Canada and Hong Kong, so if you have specific questions I'm more than happy to help out answering where I can.

    LitUp, thank you for offering to help, I totally need it!  I have a candle company in Brazil and I am moving back to the US, my home country, and have been evaluating the US market, which is saturated with companies but also has immense demand (exact opposite of Brazil, an immature market with growing demand and very few companies).  I'm not a big craft show / market seller, I'm too shy to sell directly to people/the public!  It's much easier for me to do B2B, in this case wholesale or private label. I understand the pricing but I would really like to know how you approached the wholesale market, how and why you chose the stores you did and most importantly, how did you expand so much?!  Did you use a third party?  Thanks so much!

  11. this is a great point.  I'm selling my candles in brasil and a store salesperson starts telling me the soy candles they sell are "all soy".  I lightly mention that if they were they should say "100% soy", which are so rare to come by especially in a small candle market like brazil (aside from religious candles).  She then says "its really bad to burn petroleum in the home".  she was so convinced she had accurate information she was snobby about it.  I just kept quiet and felt sorry for her lack of knowledge.

    Which leads to my question.  I use IGI 6006 which I have heard (but not confirmed) is 70% paraffin and 30% soy.  Since there is no regulation in this market, I could technically say my candle is a soy candle...right?  I like to say it's a blend but no one really knows what that means here and nor do they know they ARE buying a BLEND when they think they're buying "pure" soy.  I just don't want to lose sales because of peoples blindsided ignorance.

    What do you all think?  Thanks!

  12. On 10/30/2017 at 4:28 PM, Flicker said:

    I must use a different supplier for my CD wicks. In a standard mouth half pint mason, about 2.25" diameter I use a CD 10 with most scents. For a standard pint I would use a CD 18, and that is about the same diameter as the jar you are currently testing.

     

    I found that the larger wicks burned perfectly for me. Mine came from Wicks Unlimited and Bitter Creek. The catch with 6006 is it's a low melt paraffin blend with about 30% soy. The charts are based on a straight paraffin with no additives. So it won't necessarily even be a starting point in terms of wick size. Sooting and mushrooms can be too large or too small a wick. I suspect in both these, too small.

     

    HTH!

    This difference in suppliers amazes me!  Seems there is no consistency!  The same candle with CD18 got so hot and the wick so long (it was not cut before burning and it did not consume itself), that on the second burn it cracked the glass!!  Thanks for you tips!!!

  13. On 10/30/2017 at 3:08 PM, moonshine said:

    Not Flicker but CD is a very hot burning wick and your using parasoy which is easier to burn than straight soy

    3" diameter jar in straight soy a 10 can be too hot for me so my opinion is definitely try wicking down to a 8 and even a 7 or try the CDN series in a 7-8-10- they burn a little cooler with soy because the coating is different but are CD wicks as well

    you can get them at southwest candle supply 

    with the paraffin in there you may want to try other series as well

    Thank you so much! I've never tried CDNs.  What needs hotter burning wicks, straight paraffin or straight soy?

  14. On 10/26/2017 at 4:18 PM, Flicker said:

    3.1" where it is widest? I'd use a CD 16-18 with that myself. Keep in mind, different suppliers wicks can vary too, depending on who tabbed them.

     

    Flicker, I need you CD expertise! I'm losing my mind!

    Using 6006 in a Libbey Status diameter a little less than 3in.

    Candlescience FO containing vanilla, 8%

    CD10 and CD12.  At first hour the CD10 looked perfect!  After 40mins, the CD12 flickers and some shrooming.  After 2.5hs, the CD10 has turned into a tall/high flame and throws a long line of soot every few minutes. The CD12 still flickers but is not a high flame and has more shrooming. The CD12 pool is about 1cm deep.  The CD10 about the same, a little less.

    Conclusion: neither wick is good for this mix.  I wanted to remain with the CDs.  You think I need to wick down to CD8?  (which I'd have to order)  According to all charts CD8 is for 2.5-3inches.  Just seems like a small wick for so much fragrance... Thanks so much!

     

     

  15. On 10/27/2017 at 12:18 AM, TallTayl said:

    I burn one from start to finish in 3-4 hour increments. If it passes, then powerburn for hours I am awake and can watch. If it starts getting larger flames that seem potentially dangerous or soot it is back to the drawing board for a better wick alternative. Once the candle begins to overheat the rest happens very quickly.

    How can you tell a candle is overheating?

  16. 3 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

    One we burn for the recommended time lengths. If that wick works, we power burn from start to end. 

     

    I dont put a whole whole lot of stock in advice from floor sales people. Nor do I have faith people follow instructions on candle labels. So we aim for a safe candle for people who don't time their burns. 

    Great! so if it works well for 3 hours you just let it burn until the end? what if it's a 40 hour candle?

    While you're power burning are you lenient with a bit of soot and the flame getting higher and moving around?  I've noticed a nice flame from 3-5 hours, but then at 10 hours it's dancing and throwing soot.  Is this acceptable?

  17. 5 minutes ago, wthomas57 said:

     

    I dont really have complications with 6006 overall. I do not like 4627 or 4630. Smokey, sooty, and I hate working with it. 4630 is bad about wetspots even from the getgo. I dont get hung up on wetspots really... but why deal with it more than i have to. I just prefer the look and burn of 6006 over both 4627 and 4630... and them combined.  6006 has been my main wax for sometime and still currently my most used.

     

    Maybe I need to read back some more, but waht major complications are you having with 6006?

    I've had difficulty wicking 6006 in large containers.  

    I've also discovered that most wick charts suggest CD wick sizes that are way to big.  Like break the glass too big.  And like you said I also don't really like the leaning curve.

    I hate ecos in 6006.  I don't really like LX, but sometimes they work.  I've tried paper core, hemp, htp - all huge flames and soot.  I'm resisting trying zincs bc I wanted to avoid metal in my wicks....

    I also wondered before this discussion about premiers and rrd's.  I was skeptical bc not that many suppliers offer them... Figured there's not much demand for a reason.

    I also hated working with 4627, the vaseline, break your wrist block ;-)  but now it comes in slabs.

  18. Hello!

     

    Even though we advise to burn a candle for no more than 3-4 hours, many people exceed this time and expect the candle to "function" properly.  The other day I was at Jo Malone store in Sao Paulo and the sales person told me they burn the same candle all day!  The candle had 1/3 left and was all liquid.  I asked if there was a time limit to burn the candle and she said "nonsense"!  

     

    Taking this into consideration, I felt doing burn tests of 3-4 hours each will show the candle's performance in an ideal situation.  But most people will not respect this time frame, so...

     

    When you test your candles, how long do you typically let them burn?  

    Any helpful hints to successful testing? 

     

    Thanks!

     

  19. On 10/8/2016 at 4:56 PM, wthomas57 said:

    The only wax I can get close to the HT of straight parrafin like 4627 is 6006.... so far. At least without having to use way too much FO or double and tripple wicking. 

     

    But if I can get "close enough" but easier or better wicking, then I'd go that route

    Do you also make candles with 4627?  I've been making them and using LXs and have worked well.  The combo 4627 or 4630 and LX seem so less problematic than 6006.  Is it the soy that's complicating our lives?  I do prefer the visual appearance of 6006... but 6006 seems more "problematic" ;-)

  20. On 9/9/2017 at 9:45 AM, JeremyM said:

    I tried a few brands of wood wicks but always had issues as well. Like coachtom mentioned, there is a patent now on wood wicks so you will notice all sites either selling the same wood wicks or their stock is "limited" as they get rid of their old supply. If they ask you to include a patent on your labels, you know it's the patented kind. The best place to get them is woodenwick.com. I think they are the main supplier of these wicks. It's confusing because there are so many options with different widths and thicknesses. 

     

    I also use 464 soy wax, so I have been using mostly the dual wicks (two "original" wicks adhered together) or their booster wicks (an original wick with a much smaller original wick adhered together). I want to like the dual wicks because they provide a more horizontal flame, which I really like. However, I do notice they tend to burn low and are not consistent. As wthomas57 referred to as well, the two wicks curl apart while burning. It looks a bit odd.

     

    I have now mostly switched to the booster wicks. It's a more vertical flame, but they work consistently. I use 8 oz mason jars and more recently 9 oz amber jars, and their 1/2" booster wicks work for all of my fragrances in those two jars. The same wick also works very well in my 6 oz gold tins. There are still some where I like the dual wick, so I test both wicks with each new fragrance I sell.

     

    https://www.woodenwick.com/adhered-wicks/

     

    The toughest thing about wood wicks is unlike traditional wicks, you really need to trim them. The wicks will not stay lit if they are too big, so you need to trim them before each use. I've started sending customers a little thank you note that includes directions for proper maintenance of their candle since we know no one looks at the bottom label. I have also ordered some CleanCut wick trimmers because they are the only wick trimmer I have found that can actually cut at a 90 degree angle. They are not sharp enough for trimming fresh wood wicks after you have poured a candle, but they're perfect for trimming wood wicks before each burning. 

     

    Thanks for sharing all this information! I too have been testing with two ply wicks from Flaming Candle, which they are discontinuing for the patented wicks (one ply?).   If that wick is not trimmed, boy, does that flame have dance fever!

    But even when trimmed I would like the flame to be more still. It does crackle nicely. I'm going to try your rec. 

     

    As for the wick trimmer, I use this one and it's 90 degrees. They have several colors. 

    http://www.yankeecandle.com/product/gold-perfect-wick-trimmer/_/R-1530171

     

    • Like 2
  21. It's nice to put weight if you have an advantage for example, you are selling a large candle with lots of wax weight. I don't believe it's a regulatory requirement. If you look at best selling brands, they do not have weight or burn hours on their labels. Jo Malone, Cire Trudon... if it were a legal obligation they for sure would have this info. 

     

×
×
  • Create New...