Bia

The weird thing is all of the black debris/particles are coming from my FIRST burns and the wicks were pretty short...so I can't even blame burnt pieces from previous burn... One even went out on it's own (2,4), I think from the wax pool being so polluted, it could not draw up wax through the wick to keep the flame (?). I must be doing something really wrong. I'm testing another batch going smaller in wick diameter. These results are unacceptable. I'd want my money back lol

This worries me. What did you end up doing? I am also getting black debris, discoloration in the pool, and different cold throw from the burnt candle. BUT not every candle... I was really hoping to use wood wicks but they seem a inconsistent. Got them directly from Wooden Wick Co. I've tried the original and the whisper/smooth wick. check my pics.

HI, Thanks for sharing. I was looking for info because I am also testing wood wicks from wooden candle co and on the second burn a few of them got debris in them. see pic. One also discolored the wax - got darker (ugly). I was very excited about a wood wick line but I don't want it to keep getting dirty. I'm using the original line (single ply) because I use a soy blend that due the paraffin content burns pretty easily. The boosters were too strong but I did not see debris... What are your thoughts/suggestions? Thanks so much. ps. the bad thing is the wicks that are leaving debris are the ones that are creating the best pools, although they are only 1/4 inch deep. I would like them to be 1/2in deep.

how did your testing go? I have been testing with wooden wicks and noticed some black particles in my burn pool. looks like burnt dust. Is this what happened to yours? It got like this after 3hours of burning. I dislike this "dirty" appearance.

TallTayl, After the candle has been used up, can the wick tab be removed at all and if so, how? I usually use wick tabs but they do not glue sometimes and I really like your idea, but I need to make sure the customer can take off the tab after burning the entire candle to use the jar for other things. I don't want the tab to be so superbonded to the glass or ceramic jar that the jar will be ruined while the customer tries to remove the tab.

Also can I use this for glass and ceramic vessels? I would like the client to be able to remove the wick and tab after candle has burned completely and utilize the jar for something else. Thanks for your help!

do you use the Surebonder skillet/pan blue in pellets? I looked into it and it does not say it's high temperature. Just want to make sure. this is the greatest suggestion! Thank you!!

I have not asked them. I figured they would never tell me bc they'd want me to buy through them. but I could risk it

Is this forum still active? I'm trying to find out who is the supplier for candlescience's citronella fragrance oil. I want to buy direct (and cheaper?).

Great question. Thank you for asking. Lots of insights from the responses!

LitUp, thank you for offering to help, I totally need it! I have a candle company in Brazil and I am moving back to the US, my home country, and have been evaluating the US market, which is saturated with companies but also has immense demand (exact opposite of Brazil, an immature market with growing demand and very few companies). I'm not a big craft show / market seller, I'm too shy to sell directly to people/the public! It's much easier for me to do B2B, in this case wholesale or private label. I understand the pricing but I would really like to know how you approached the wholesale market, how and why you chose the stores you did and most importantly, how did you expand so much?! Did you use a third party? Thanks so much!

this is a great point. I'm selling my candles in brasil and a store salesperson starts telling me the soy candles they sell are "all soy". I lightly mention that if they were they should say "100% soy", which are so rare to come by especially in a small candle market like brazil (aside from religious candles). She then says "its really bad to burn petroleum in the home". she was so convinced she had accurate information she was snobby about it. I just kept quiet and felt sorry for her lack of knowledge. Which leads to my question. I use IGI 6006 which I have heard (but not confirmed) is 70% paraffin and 30% soy. Since there is no regulation in this market, I could technically say my candle is a soy candle...right? I like to say it's a blend but no one really knows what that means here and nor do they know they ARE buying a BLEND when they think they're buying "pure" soy. I just don't want to lose sales because of peoples blindsided ignorance. What do you all think? Thanks!

This difference in suppliers amazes me! Seems there is no consistency! The same candle with CD18 got so hot and the wick so long (it was not cut before burning and it did not consume itself), that on the second burn it cracked the glass!! Thanks for you tips!!!

Thank you so much! I've never tried CDNs. What needs hotter burning wicks, straight paraffin or straight soy?

Flicker, I need you CD expertise! I'm losing my mind! Using 6006 in a Libbey Status diameter a little less than 3in. Candlescience FO containing vanilla, 8% CD10 and CD12. At first hour the CD10 looked perfect! After 40mins, the CD12 flickers and some shrooming. After 2.5hs, the CD10 has turned into a tall/high flame and throws a long line of soot every few minutes. The CD12 still flickers but is not a high flame and has more shrooming. The CD12 pool is about 1cm deep. The CD10 about the same, a little less. Conclusion: neither wick is good for this mix. I wanted to remain with the CDs. You think I need to wick down to CD8? (which I'd have to order) According to all charts CD8 is for 2.5-3inches. Just seems like a small wick for so much fragrance... Thanks so much!

How can you tell a candle is overheating?

Great! so if it works well for 3 hours you just let it burn until the end? what if it's a 40 hour candle? While you're power burning are you lenient with a bit of soot and the flame getting higher and moving around? I've noticed a nice flame from 3-5 hours, but then at 10 hours it's dancing and throwing soot. Is this acceptable?

I've had difficulty wicking 6006 in large containers. I've also discovered that most wick charts suggest CD wick sizes that are way to big. Like break the glass too big. And like you said I also don't really like the leaning curve. I hate ecos in 6006. I don't really like LX, but sometimes they work. I've tried paper core, hemp, htp - all huge flames and soot. I'm resisting trying zincs bc I wanted to avoid metal in my wicks.... I also wondered before this discussion about premiers and rrd's. I was skeptical bc not that many suppliers offer them... Figured there's not much demand for a reason. I also hated working with 4627, the vaseline, break your wrist block ;-) but now it comes in slabs.

Hello! Even though we advise to burn a candle for no more than 3-4 hours, many people exceed this time and expect the candle to "function" properly. The other day I was at Jo Malone store in Sao Paulo and the sales person told me they burn the same candle all day! The candle had 1/3 left and was all liquid. I asked if there was a time limit to burn the candle and she said "nonsense"! Taking this into consideration, I felt doing burn tests of 3-4 hours each will show the candle's performance in an ideal situation. But most people will not respect this time frame, so... When you test your candles, how long do you typically let them burn? Any helpful hints to successful testing? Thanks!

Do you also make candles with 4627? I've been making them and using LXs and have worked well. The combo 4627 or 4630 and LX seem so less problematic than 6006. Is it the soy that's complicating our lives? I do prefer the visual appearance of 6006... but 6006 seems more "problematic" ;-)

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Hi Everyone, I've been in contact with Charlotte from Wood Wicks customer service and they are super helpful! There are a few helpful videos on their youtube channel too. You can get in touch with customer service via a request on their site and they reply promptly and really try to help. Hope this helps ;-)

Thanks for sharing all this information! I too have been testing with two ply wicks from Flaming Candle, which they are discontinuing for the patented wicks (one ply?). If that wick is not trimmed, boy, does that flame have dance fever! But even when trimmed I would like the flame to be more still. It does crackle nicely. I'm going to try your rec. As for the wick trimmer, I use this one and it's 90 degrees. They have several colors. http://www.yankeecandle.com/product/gold-perfect-wick-trimmer/_/R-1530171

It's nice to put weight if you have an advantage for example, you are selling a large candle with lots of wax weight. I don't believe it's a regulatory requirement. If you look at best selling brands, they do not have weight or burn hours on their labels. Jo Malone, Cire Trudon... if it were a legal obligation they for sure would have this info.

U can use some fragrance oils. Candlescience informs you on there site