KimmyPee

"I would like to know if other people have problems with fragrance. My control candles without fragrance are perfect. The ones with fragrance are problematic - I tried adding at 180 and higher as suggested online at 200"

I've had zero issues with fragrance pooling on top or cratering of any sort. I've also had some successes with wicking. Ironically I get perfect adhesion with the 220 and not with the 210. Somewhere I read not to heat these waxes higher than 180. I can't for the life of me remember where but I've kept my heating temp to 180 or below. There's a few times where I've gone above that to around 185 but didn't notice any ill effects. The ct/ht with the 210 has been great-I've yet to have a scent not throw well. The ct is there immediately and I've burned some as soon as 24 hrs later and the ht was great. Like WThomas I've had some issues with the wick getting all nasty and clumpy- almost disintegrated looking and it's only been with heavy scents. One one of my wine scents it did this and I was messing around with it and that clump pulled off like a mushroom cap, leaving a nicely trimmed wick below. It was dry and hard, I'm thinking it's a mushroom with this wax since I've had no shrooming whatsoever on my successes and these things with my fails. Most of them are oily and I couldn't pop off. I've remedied that in a few scents with changing wicks to a different brand. 

The 220 is behaving different in the throw department, I have little to no cold throw after it sets on some scents but the ht is great. I have one I've kept sitting to see if/when the ct appears and it's coming in little by little which is perplexing. 

With both waxes most of my successes are with CDN wicks. I had been starting all out with CD wicks and then changing out to CDN's when I had the weird wicks. When that hasn't worked then I've gone to HTP and some of those worked. I'm starting to see a pattern with wick to scent but I need to do more testing to say for sure. 

I haven't used 464 in a long time but when I did I heated to 185, added FO at 180 and poured around 150. The throw was comparable to my normal wax, which is c3, from what I remember. 

The fragrance needs to be added to the wax at higher temperatures to allow it to bind to the wax molecules. I'd try a higher temp. Curing for 2 weeks also. 

I used 1 oz. per pound as well. 

The Q210 has a light beige color to it when it sets, it's not white like other soys. I've been playing with it since it came out and should have the 220 next week to test. I'm not having the issues I've seen above with any chemical smell in the finished product, it does smell terrible in raw form though lol. It colors extremely well and I've seen absolutely zero frosting, I even tried a few heavily dyed reds and browns and can't get a speck of frost. 

Its not great for melts-I didn't try clamshells just single molds and oval cups. It will release from the oval cups but not the best and the molds were a train wreck. 

Move had success with CD wicks in most scents I've tried. None of my testers have been burnt completely yet as work has been a bear the last few weeks. The only scent I noticed an issue similar to Wthomas was with blueberry cheesecake from CS. I wicked with a CD-16 and it pretty much disintegrated into a mushy nub. I pulled it and rewicked with a CDN-18 and it survived the first burn so we will see. I'm using 11.5 oz. straight sided tumblers and CD-16 starting. I've played with fo load from 6%-10% and throw has been great so far. Red currant from CS is burning beautifully, about 1/4 to go. I'm also burning VBN-CDN-18, spiced pumpkin pie CD-16. I'll report back after they're done.  

The pic is of the wick in the blueberry cheesecake I replaced after the first burn. The black on the handle top is from the previous wick when I hestgunned the top to set the new wick in place, there's been no sooting whatsoever. I'm watching a bit more, but it appears to me the CDN's do better than the CD's so far. 

On 9/7/2017 at 1:15 PM, Moonstar said:

Im looking for a Hot Pink candle dye and bright colors in general. Any suggestions on where to look ? TYIA  

I just got Guilty Pleasures pink,  I think it's called, from RE, it makes a nice bright pink. 

He posted last week sometime that he doesn't have the resources and won't be reopening at all....

IGI sent me this back in response to me asking if it's normal then why is it yellow..

"Sorry Kim, I’m not aware of any issues. The product is within spec, even if it’s in the lower colour range."

A color range? Wouldn't you be able to articulate what causes differences in color if there's a color range? She also suggesting contacting my supplier if I'm not happy with the product. CS doesn't feel that it's a widespread issue so I'm not sure what else to do. I'll wait and see how it tests I guess. 

8 hours ago, TallTayl said:

I have been testing 70:30 C3 to 4630 with cd. The 4630 seems to help ease the burn, but the hot throw is still impeded by the soy. My candles smell nothing like they have for the last 5+ years

I poured a C-3 4630 blended at 85/15 last weekend to test the difference in what's usually a great fragrance in my c3 alone but doesn't seem to have the same umph. I'm curious to see your results. I did receive my new case of C3 but I've not opened it yet, the case I'm finishing up was white and normal to what I've always received so we will see, I almost don't want to know....

Kim

7 hours ago, wthomas57 said:

Candle Science is also wrong in their response to you. Its not more soy than parrafin. Its mostly parrafin

Now I'm questioning if she said it the other way around because I've always believed it to be more paraffin as well. Right now we don't know what it is. 

I did hear back from BA and basically they said they have nothing to compare it too as they're out of stock and do I want a return label. 

IGI responded back with this:

Our specs have not change and this product is within spec. I’ve attached the TIS along with the QC for this lot to this email.

I've responded back to try to get more info. 

Kim

I got a couple samples of CC meadow Mountain Honey and it's smells almost exactly like Peaks OOB but it didn't put it in wax yet. 

I've been making candles off and on for around eight years but have gotten serious with it the last year or so. It could be ambient temps as we are experiencing pretty warm weather, for us anyways, here in Washington. Due to a demanding day job and a 4 year old I pretty much pour in the middle of the night so it is substantially cooler, 60's outside 70s inside. I pour around 150. 

I wouldn't think it's the oil either normally but it's the only scent that's done it to me on both occasions I poured it. Three times if I count my remelt and repour. The first one I'm pretty sure now did the same thing but I didn't catch it so I assumed a bad wick and pulled it out and stuffed a new one in there.  I do poke little holes since I do a second pour but I've never found a hidden tunnel before.. I'm a tad upset there wasn't treasure down there haha. 

Since I only bought a 4 oz. bottle and Peaks is gone it's probably a non issue but I do have another curing that I'm patiently waiting to burn to see if it does the same thing. Would the wick possibly cause it in some weird way? Both of those were made with CD-10 from lonestar but this last one I made I used one from CC. 

Is your lot white? I was on the phone today about the issues that I posted about  a couple days ago and am waiting for some feedback. One of the companies I spoke with was Candlescience as that's where my "white" wax came from. As of today they've had zero complaints or comments and weren't aware of any of this. 

I do expect to hear back from them soon and will share what I find out when I do. I also contacted IGI. I broke down and made a candle with my new yellow wax  tonight so I'll see how it behaves for me, I add more soy to mine though. 

The rep at Candlescience said that they don't know much about the wax as far as percentages etc. They guess it's more soy because the way it behaves but IGI is pretty tight lipped about their formulation. I'll update as I hear more.

Candlescience carries them as well and they just came out with bronze ones this week.

I'm sure others will chime in as well that have way more knowledge than me but my understanding is the flashpoint means nothing more than when the oil will combust when near a flame, and is listed mostly for shipping considerations.

I add my oils at 180, all of them and have no problems with throw, at least not related to that. That's a common piece of misinformation that gets spread around.

As far as CS oils I don't know that they make their oils geared towards soy but they have a leaf rating for those they have found to work well in Soy. I've used their oils in paraffins and blends just fine. 

I know TT, I also have a case of C-3 coming and I'm worried about that from what I've been reading on threads here. I only ordered 1 since I had read about the problems with it, might have to look at switching to the new eco waxes. 

Bulk responded to me asking for the photos and said she will get to the bottom of this, we will see. 

Off topic I know I read somewhere on here what other supplier was close to Peaks for Birthday Cake FO, does anyone know.. them closing just made my friggin day, ugh. I suspected something was up this weekend since the website was down.. 

I sent a message to BA, I'll send to IGI in the morning. Luckily I color my parasoy candles but something's not right. I'll post if/when I hear back from them. 

So I just cracked open my new case of 6006 from BA, looks like it's the same lot discussed above. Attached is pic of the lot and in the tote is the wax from BA, left, and wax I had received a couple months ago from Candlescience. Major difference!

Did anyone find out what was going on? Did testing result in changing wicks? UGH ?

I poke before I do my small second pour to get rid of my c-3 circle lol.. 

I have been testing mandarin plum from Peaks in a 12 oz. status jar with c3, CD-10. I only know what happened because I happened to be walking by when I heard the gurgling, it was a tunnel by the wick down under the surface. I unfortunately didn't take any pics because I was too in awe watching what happened lol. Once lit it opened that tunnel about 15 minutes into the burn sucked all the wax from the small pool, the wick burnt up and died. 

I've just been doing a second pour this summer since the C3 circle crack seems to be happening to me a lot and I don't feel like playing around with pouring temps, I usually poke a couple holes before the pour just in case. I used 6% load no dye. So I thought maybe I did something wrong. I remelted the wax, heated my jar this time, and poured it back in.. when I lit it again it had the same darned thing although not as bad and it didn't really affect things too much, yet anyways.

Ive never had this happen on any other scents in these jars, my methods haven't changed, the only thing "different" is the oil. What could it be? ?

2 hours ago, Flicker said:

How long are you burning each cycle?

I'm burning them in 3 hour sessions a couple times a day, depending on my schedule. The jar is roughly 3.25"x 2.75" by 3.5" tall. I have no problem getting a fmp first couple burns but, I think, that because of the difference in length v. Width it gets way to hot further into the burns. That's what started me wicking down. 

2 hours ago, Flicker said:

With that kind of tunneling, why are you thinking the wick is too large? Your wicks are certainly too small if you are not achieving a complete melt. I would say in 6006 that about a CD 10-12 would be needed to get the proper burn.

 

If I wick to get a full pool the first burn, which is what those pics are from, then the jar is way too hot midway. If I wick too small and it starts to tunnel it does try to catch up but then the wick drowns out..

I was always under the impression I don't want a full pool the first few burns. 

Both of those candles have been sitting around over a month, I just rewicked them and lit them yesterday. They're both C3, I haven't tried the 6006 in these jars yet but if it will be easier to wick them then I'm game to try. I'll try the 6006 with the wicks you suggested and see how that does. 

May this point I refuse to let the jar beat me ??

22 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

 

 

Did you burn that candle to the end?  

I haven't burnt these all the way down yet but I have all the others I've tested. The biggest issue is that it's wider than deep so the pool hits the bigger sides first and then when I do get mid to bottom third of the jar it's just way to hot. I'm hoping since the zincs burn cooler it might help a bit. That 6 actually looks better this time after first burn than the last time I tried it..

I don't get the zincs till mid week but I'm going to test the lower htp's... I do have a couple of the 73's and 83's I found hiding out. 

3 hours ago, bfroberts said:

I'm not familiar with that jar, but off the top of my head I'd say HTP 73 or 83.

I think the smallest I have is the 93 but I'll get some and give it a shot, I need some smaller wicks for double-wicking some bigger jars. Thanks for the help ?

Actually correction there, that's a different one... an htp-93. This is the cd-6 2 hrs. into the burn.. 

sorry about that, so many pictures..

Yes I'm sure. I actually tried it again thinking maybe I trimmed it too short. Here's a pic after the first burn with the cd-6.... it hits those short sides and then gets pretty hot around the top, and hotter as it goes down.