Sponiebr

Let me take a shot in the dark here... Are you basically looking for Goop or Gojo or do you specifically want a specialty cream/liquid soap? Goop and Gojo I can make all day long with just some mineral spirits and detergent. (We've used kerosene, diesel, gasoline, turpentine, orange oil, nothing too aromatic though) I'm not really sure what the ratio is, because it's always just been kind put some detergent in a bucket put the paint stirrer in, add a splash of water and very slowly add mineral spirits until it gels. You could throw in some pumice or sand, (walnut shells..?) if you wanted an abrasive. I guesstimate it is about 1:1 Detergent:Solvent, (maybe 60/40) and you only want just enough water to get it to "kick" and gel. HTH. Sponie

Personally when I see something like this, I like to convert to percentages. Then you have a general specification as to the formulation and can expand or contract the volume to meet your needs. Also Kelly makes a good point, a gram of x is not the same volume as a gram of y. Teaspoons, cups, etc.. are measurement standards of volume. Cheers, Sponie

Hopefully I'll get my FO's tomorrow in the mail and I can get some soaps started. I'll be pretty much making a batch every time my molds get freed up until the end of the month. I REALLY need some colorants, a few specialty oils, and some other supplies. I should probably order those things but I'm not really fond of having to get different shipments from different companies. I'll sort it out soon enough! Have fun!

Awesome! I have MANY pine, fir, and spruce FO's on the way. It''s so weird that turpene would draw out the trace but the pryrolized source of the turpene causes it to seize... As I understand it lavendar can cause trace accelleration too? If that's the case, I can't seem to get my head around how one turpene does something, but another in the same class doesn't. I'll definately give it a go, thanks!

You don't happen to know of a reverse trace for pine tar soap do you? This is interesting. I hadn't heard of adding FO's or EO's after trace before, I just dump it all in at the same time, but I only make a couple of types of soap and only one with peppermint EO. The pine tar soap is the one I make with the peppermint, so I'm not worried that it will seize on me, I KNOW it is about 20 seconds away from seizing on me the instant the lye is in the fat. CP Pine tar soap is so stressful to make... I may be physically prepared, but I'm never truly mentally prepared for the 5 second dash for life that always happens... "What's that?? I can either make up some pine tar soap or go pick blackberrys naked? So... How many pounds of blackberries should I pick?" Adding the EO and FO after trace makes sense (scents?), becuase if anything went south with the batch (discoloration, ricing, breaking, reverse trace...) you could point it directly to the FO or EO. It would also allow you to play with different formulations and note which fragrances don't behave well... Well, thank you! I've learned 2 new things today! Slainte, Sponie

Smashed Pum'kin.

Ok, so some notes about my batch: 1: even with dividing the oil and tar (FO and EO + 2/3 of the plain oils and 1/3 plain oils + pine tar dissolved.) the plain oil with the FO and EO still traced VERY quickly( >2 min.) When I added the pine tar it was done in 4 turns of the whisk and into the mold. I always make my pine tar soap at 20% pine tar and 10 SF and generally with pretty close to .75-1 oz peppermint EO PPO and if I split the tar off or just add it all in at one time my time from all lye in the pot to: IT HAS TO BE IN THE MOLD ALREADY DO IT!!! DO IT!!! DO IT NOW!!! MOVE! MOVE! MOVE!!!! is always 45-50 seconds and the bowl as it hits the sink has hardened soap on the sides. Also I didn't use any sodium lactate. That's the other thing, when I make pine tar soap my lye is ice cold, fats are just barely warm and I ONLY stir with a whisk and a plastic spoon. Ok, so by the Grace of God I had no slip ups and the choreography went perfect-ish. Some of the pine tar cooled at the very bottom of it's yogurt cup and stuck there so I didn't get all the pine tar out. Everything else went mostly as expected. I really didn't expect a > 2 min trace from the plain oils that was a little odd. 2. Pine tar soap heats up all by it's self, you don't need to help it with more heat. In fact, if you CAN put it into your mold and then put your mold into a freezer I would highly recommend it so that you can keep the soap from going through gel phase. (That's just me, and it usually isn't a very important issue.... usually...) 3. I tried to unmold after 24 hrs. and nothing do'n. Pine tar soaps are sticky, at least for me they're sticky. I pulled the silicone liner out of the box and after I determined that the soap at the bottom was sticking to the mold I stuck the loaf into a freezer for 30 minutes (it might have been an hour). After the soap was chilled nicely I was able to unmold my little 1 lb. batch and cut it to size. The soap turned out looking absolutely beautiful. The peppermint gassing off was too powerful for the house so I put my cure crate with a towel over it into a dehumidified if slightly warm craft room. I got no zap after 24 hours. That's right, I licked it immediately after cutting it. No ZAP. There IS a significant amount of peppermint EO in my soap and I totally felt that, but I felt none of the burning I would get from a zap test. The soap on my hands and the remains in the bowl passed the hand wash test perfectly, no drying out of my hands. The soap is still VERY much in need of drying so I won't use it until it's had a chance to lose some of the water. Anywho, just thought I'd share my notes about this last test batch of pine tar peppermint EO and Mountain Morning Mist FO for your foamy edification. Slainte, Sponie

"...Science! We do what we must, because, we can..."

Yay!

Here are the pictures of the soap 15 minutes after molding and this morning:

Just a note: I made a (erm) similarly formulated batch last night. I'll be honest I didn't see much in the way of an improvement by separating the oils and leaving the pine tar out until the last nano second. Even the plain oils with the peppermint EO and a little FO traced pretty quick, (1-2 minutes only using a whisk.) I remembered something: Pinetar soaps HEAT UP. They will definitely go through gel phase. I haven't been able to get around that yet. I think my batch turned out nice. 1 pound batch 4.4% peppermint EO (my preference only) 10 ml. Mountain Morning Mist FO and 20% pine tar. I'll attach my soapcalc sheet. Cheers! Sponie

Where does one get this fragrance?

C. Anima eius in pace requiem nostri et salvatoris Iesu Christi. Pax Christi tecum sit omnia. Sponie

Sorry, I meant the glycerin weeping.

I did a little more background fact checking an it appears that the "weepness" in brine soaps comes from HP.

Personally, I don't use anything in my OMH soaps. And once you get at around that stale cat urine smell the next day they smell just like Bit-o-honey candy.

Well howdy and welcome Robyn! What's your thang? (Um, mebbe that wasn't the best choice of words...) Are you into soap or candles? Cheers, Sponie

Don't brine soaps tend to "squeeze" or weep out the glycerin?

My last 2 batches of oatmeal/ goats milk/ and honey soap were 100% coconut oil at 20%SF and to be perfectly honest they are still pretty drying. Not horribly so because of the honey, but yeah they still clean pretty aggressively. Edited to add: Beef tallow makes a very nice soap with a creamy lather BTW. Awesome soaps Kelly!

So, I saw this title and, yep my mind went straight to the Reddi Whip. But then I paused and then THIS happened in my brain: "Wait... Oh, PLEASE NO!!!! Are they talking about body hair highlights!?" (I know... It's like staring at the sun...) o.O

Oh! Those are NICE!

Is it... (sniff) Possible (eyes tearing up) that there is (chin and lower lip quivering) Hoo, ho o.... Hope for...for... 'ME' !?????

Yeah PT soap with the peppermint is a regular PITA that I make, I thought maybe the salt might be interesting. ( I so HATE how FAST that stuff moves in CP, but I REALLY don't like the thought of HP'ing it. Meh pine tar soap is what it is.) I know that if I use coconut oil in, let's say, a beard oil it creates problems and basically turns me into "yuck" incarnate. I've only had the zitsapalooza happen when I use it exclusively as an moisturizing oil to just basically smear on my face but it's never been a problem for me in soap --even with a 20% lye discount. Have you had problems with this issue using CO in your soap? I can't see using a clay in a soap would have any absorptive effect at all because the clay is already soaked with fat or at least with soap. Now it might be, I dunno, "exfoliating"? Even if the clay was prehydrated with a portion of the recipe's water I can't see how that would work. As I understand it the whole super fat issue is that soap is soap and it clean's at 100% soaper power all the time. This can't be changed at all, and there's no special mixing or add this fat or that thing at trace or before trace that can change the fact that soap kills fats. So to make a soap more mild we super fat it, meaning that we give it some incorporated free fats to work on so it doesn't use 100% of it's soaper power on our skin fats. Basically we decrease the soap's ability to cleanse us, by making the soap bar cleanse itself. (If that makes any sense?) So, what I've been told is that soap can not be moisturizing or conditioning, and they have been vehemently adamant about this concept. This bugs the HELL outta me because I can FEEL the oil on the shower floor as I wash with a really high superfatted soap. I had a 100% pure OO Castile that I made with a 20% SF which greased up the shower floor REAL nice , (NO LATHER at all), but interestingly it DIDN'T grease me up. Though admittedly I'm SO confused, what I'm being told seems to actually occur in practice. Hopefully someone with more experience with this will chime in on this but I think that these comedonal ratings apply only to cosmetics etc.. and not to soap. I've been thinking a LOT about this whole comedogenic issue lately. I haven't seen a list yet here on this forum with the comedogeic ratings of various fats, have you? If not that might be a useful thing I could or someone could put together especially for the bath, beauty, and beyond types. Wow... This place is INTERESTING! Cheers! Sponie

CO oil soap comedogenic? I've heard of CO soaps being severely drying but I've never heard of it causing zits. My CO soaps are superfatted to 20% and they are still way to drying for my taste. But to answer your question, I'd think some castor, would give you some more lather. I'm finding that if it gives a great lather, it's drying as all get out. I'm not real familiar with salt bars, but I'm trying to get familiar with them REAL quick because I want to make some pine tar peppermint salt bars... (BUHAHAHAHAHAAH!!! It's ALIVE!!!) So, as I understand salt bars, again this is purely theory for me, salt kills lather. What would you replace your CO with, sunflower? Rice bran oil!? (That might work well.) I don't know, so I defer to those with more wisdom in affairs of the suds. YM*W*V! Slainte, Sponie