Sponiebr

BINGO!

If we take oil to mean the functional substance and not the molecular structure the 2 absolute fastest and best in my experience are Jojoba and Argan. The both have almost an identical molecular structure to human skin oil and as such they are properly esters. Those 2 are the absolute best for skin "nourishment" and they are actually absorbed into the skin and hair, and they do so very rapidly also. Also adding a little simethicone or dimethicone to a batch will be a huge help in providing a nice skin nourishment. If you need a little more glide to your lotion as Nightlight mentioned isopropyl myristate is THE nicest choice I can think of, BUT the simethicone or dimethicone will also give some glide to your formulation. Also one of the best non comedonal oils hasn't been mentioned yet is Mineral Oil. There's a BIG reason why it's in ALL of the commercial products, and that's because it WORKS like magic. My beard lotion is like pretty much straight mineral oil these days with just a smidge of vitamin E (tocopherol). ETA: Also a very nice deodorant I have used extensively is just straight old Dollar Tree non sweetened Milk of Magnesia. SUPER anti microbial and makes REALLY good fairly long lasting deodorant as well. Also, for a little extra moisturization some sodium lactate is a very nice addition. Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

Yeah, I tried a BUNCH of them, Olive oil, Coconut Oil, Castor oil, Shea Butter, Lanolin, Beeswax. Of all of them I felt the OO was the nicest, though lanolin was REALLY nice too. I've heard cocoa butter is TDF... I've never tried it, it's just too damned expensive; for me.

That walmart shortening is DA BOMB! innit? FWIW I've NEVER been able to manually calculate out the same values in soap calc using just PO and Beef Tallow, I strongly suspect there's some hydrogenation in there somewhere that is accounting for the differences in SAP and INS. Ok, so if you're adding in 1oz SF PPO then you're doing a 6.25% SF which should be LOVELY in HP soap by itself. I personally wouldn't go over 8% in HP for SF content. I have been attacked by the DOS demons before and I am now skittish. Personally, (this is just my preference), I wouldn't bother to put in ANY SF before the cook. I just dial it to 0 and then (in that particular formulation) add in the 68g of OO to get a 5% SF content. (I think that was 5% of the total oil weight) . I figure WHY? I'm PUTTING in a specific oil as the SF anyway, and in the the way I do my HTFHP I CAN'T miss the addition of the SF, or FO because if I did it would NEVER get out of the pot, so adding in ANY SF before the cook is completely unnecessary. (I mean, TO ME it is) If I make it a smidge lye heavy and my SF is 4.98% then so be it, and if it's a tad SF and my end SF content is 5.03%, meh... I'm ok with that. I've found those weird SF to be more prone to DOS than say a pure OO SF. In HP it's the same before the cook as if doing CP, you CAN'T KNOW what the superfat content* is made up of. The lye chooses from your fat content what it will, and won't saponify. Your SF content in any CP soap therefore is most likely a blend of ALL of your fats, though it's probably not much of the CO, PO, or Animal Oil, and NONE of the EO, and esters (waxes). Now, as to your lanolin feeling wonderful as a SF, I would say YOU BET IT DOES! 1. because lanolin's AWESOME, and 2. because lanolin is an ester and therefore unsaponifiable. If using an ESTER as your SF you STILL have to basically calculate it as 0%SF, and then add it in manually. Soap calc does this for you in some of these, like lanolin, beeswax, pine tar. You can plug them in to the calculator and it knows to ignore these as a fatty acid and just to factor them into the final volumetric calculation. Yanno, 'cause when you need a quart of soap making 35 ounces is an irritating waste. *UNLESS it is an ester that you are using as your "superfat". Technically adding an ester as a "superfat" is a misnomer because an ester CAN NOT BE a fat, because it isn't a fatty acid. ❤️ Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

Here it is... It was converted from a PDF to jpeg so the clarity isn't all that great, sorry about that. Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

The only way I know of to perfectly dial in your superfat to a specific fat is to make a 0% SF High Temperature Fluid Hot Process and then to add the exact fat(s) you want to use as the SF content at the end of the cook as you are adding in your sodium lactate, FO, colorants, extra sugar, and milk. I've got a Soapcalc somewhere that has my exact method listed out on it. The NICEST SF content I had found is Olive oil. It feels nicer than Shea or Coconut Oil to me. My HTFHP soap never needs more than 5% SF to get a super nice, lotiony feeling, high lather soap. You could try even as much as 7% SF if you wanted a really greasy feeling soap. I'll see if I can dig it up. Slainte, Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services.

You put de palm in de coconut and light it all up... Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

Hold my beer... They were out of Texas, right? Sponiebr, The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

Let me ask something here. (And I know at least one of the answers) So the only thing this applies to is container candles? I guess it could apply to a pillar candle, but WHY is this a problem? I virtually NEVER saw ANY candles in Russia with ANY wick securments, EVER, and these folks actually use candles as lighting as a necessity. There weren't many fires that I recall seeing or hearing about during the time I was there. The beeswax comb tapers were generally underwicked, (for good reason) and they burned really fast as there was more fluff than wax I guess. They were dim as hell at first but after about 5 minutes they picked up a pretty good flame. The wicks would char, curl and drop most of the time. I don't remember them burning for more than maybe an hour for a 10 "x 1" taper (it's been a LONG time ago though) So, theoretically in the container candle the wick falls over and burns the glass side and shatters the candle. Isn't that attributable to a specific issue of an undersized container? IF the container were large enough, when the wick falls over it should usually snuff out OR burn with a SIGNIFICANTLY lower flame size, right? If it's burning right the wick isn't going to fall over before it hits somewhere near the end of the candle, right? I think everyone knows I'm not a chandler, but I'm confused here. Now I can see your insurance company and the liability demons coming for you if you DIDN'T secure the wick, but as a practical issue I don't understand the concern. Does the average wick not fall over and snuff so that these are very likely to become molotov cocktails? Or is this more of the order of they won't burn properly and be fully consumed and will soot up the containers and not look good? I can see that improperly burning candles would be a HUGE issue for someone that produces candles to sell, you don't need that kind of negativity, and I get that... Anywhoo... I'm Heeeeeeere... I've been away for awhile but this is an interesting post to come back to. Slainte, Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services.

Oh JEEZE... SUCH excitement!!!! I'm sitting here remembering the old ladies melting down clear plastic milk jugs and hot glue sticks to make hard dipping wax. They would also get a large piece of lead split shot (like the kind used in fishing) and pinch it onto a length of cotton trussing twin with their teeth and then dip that into a mix of hot paraffin and vaseline to load their wicks. Russians would just take a wick (COMPLETELY UNSECURED) and literally ROLL it up in a lopsided rectangular piece of beeswax comb and that was the STANDARD beeswax candle over there. 😂 ❤️ Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

I've not been making much these days. Last batch I made was back in August I think and it was a couple of test batches. I've been busy with a bunch of other projects, which after winter, should be self sustaining. Add to that, soap hasn't been moving much this year and not making soap is the result. Last year I was bust'n butt to get enough soap made for the holidays and I swore I wouldn't get into that situation again. This year I've been topped off on all of my popular scents, and not a SINGLE holiday order. That's not true... I am bartering a pile of soap for something I would normally have to pay for... (and NO! It's NOT THAT!!!) Oh MURPHY! You trickster you! Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

I made the patch soap, and I even added it to my line. Turned out great. I've got no pictures of it, but it's pink-ish and white swirls like 99.9% of ALL of my soap. This is a special edition Christmas loaf I made of HTFHP (which I'm NOT doing anymore, I'm back to straight CP with a HUGE water discount). It's called Noel's Warmth and it's got CS Christmas Hearth in it. I have NO internet at work (still) so I'm not on here as much these days. Slainte, Sponiebr The Executive of BAD Ideas and Sundry Services

I was SO EXCITED when I saw this thread. I was like OH!!! THAT'S MEEEEEEE!!!!! OMG!!! YAS!!! I'M THAT GUY!!!!! I make people incensed ALL THE TIME!!!! NOT what you were talking about, apparently. dammit. Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

I get my palm oil and coconut oil from websturant now. The palm oil you kinda have to wait until the winter months though because gosh just ONE pin hole in that plastic bag and it's a special delivery from Hannibal Lecter.

Give them websturant's store price on Luanna 35 pound box of white 76F Coconut oil... I doubt they'll honor that price because, oh, we don't sell it in 35 pound boxes...

Yeah BA get's ya with the shipping EVERY TIME. Even when I get a great deal from them on something, it ends up being fractionally less than just buying it from anywhere else. (anywhere INCLUDING BB.) I got so pissed off with their little bait and switch game about "Prices as LOW AS $X.XX per pound!!!" Yeah, except that price is for a tanker railcar and every other price is just meh. I got 2 gallons of Castor Oil from them a few months back and it ended up being like $2 less than Columbus Foods. (MRRRRGHHHHHHH! I've gots SO much mads... Sooooo much...) Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

You mean to tell me that method is NOT a legit method for making a candle? I mean: It burns! It produces scent! It gives LIGHT! It's a CANDLE. SMDH... LOL. Sorry I've been out for a while... I'm hoping I can come back more frequently and, uh... Stir the pots... (both pour and soap pots) Cheers, Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

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Did I ever tell you I adore you TT? No? Well I adore you TT. ❤️ Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas, Sundry Services, and Losing Women...

Well, it's moot now. The principle object for my endeavors has left. I got had... AGAIN.

NO! I won't compromise on those at all! Completely counterproductive. Then add to that the weird little $300 MOLD to make the damned things and, all of the sudden I'm like: "Hey Bae!!! Maybe it's Maybelline!?" I was just thinking with the crap tons of mica's and oxides I have on hand that at least blush should be doable. MAYBE nail polish would be a wiser choice?

That's EXACTLY where I started GMTA. I just have ABSOLUTELY NO CONCEPT about what these products should or should NOT be like because I have NEVER used them. Chapstick is as close to a lipstick as I've ever used. I feel like the first guy the American Government came to and said... "SO! We're going to the MOON, and YOU'RE the guy that's gonna make it happen!" But I have something old rocket man DIDN'T have... YOUTUBE! I'm SURE I can figure this out... Well, I might be able to get SOMETHING usable out of my endeavors. FIRST things FIRST! What goes into that stuff you girls pat onto yer beautiful lil faces? Mica, Oxides, I would THINK stearic acid... but what ELSE? If I can figure blush out lipsticks should be fairly straight forward... Blissful ignorance feels AN AWFUL LOT like HOPE! Cheers, Sponiebr The Executor of Whatever I gotta be... I do what it takes, 'n junk...

Along this same line can someone point me in the right direction for Lipstick base, like date night lipstick stuff? I'mma need some direction on how to make eyeshadow and blush pressed into them little metal pans. (OH MY GAWD!!!! WHAT HAS BECOME OF ME!!!!!???) Help me! Help ME!!! Thank you for your support... Sponiebr The Executor of Making Girlfriends HAPPY and some other junk that I can't remember anymore... Bad soap and.... I dunno

Yep the 2 shortenings are indeed beef tallow and palm oil blends. And just to clarify the simple 3 oil soap you mentioned not more than adding 5% castor oil, and then 76F Coconut Oil, High Oleic Sunflower oil, or Olive oil?

Glad I actually was able to help! Volcanoing is a direct result of water content. The fat profile of your soap can cause it to heat up when using it at RT, but in CPOP that's also a water content issue. So, you can go with a lower water content, say 30% and that should help reduce if not completely eliminate the volcanoing for CPOP. (for the record I don't do CPOP very often, but I have done it many times) About the Crisco... (Shudder) Crisco is hydrogenated Soybean Oil which is basically GUARANTEED DOS... I swear canola and soybean oil are the 2 most consistently DOS'n oils I have EVER used. I actually LIKE a little canola oil in my formulation from time to time but I WILL NOT use it anymore because they ALWAYS get DOS. There's nothing wrong with palm oil, to be perfectly honest the coconut oil is FAR MORE likely to volcano on you over the palm. Coconut oil gets HOT very QUICKLY , and, more importantly, it gets HARD very quickly... (split loaves, and EXPLOSIVE volcanoing) I think I've posted my formulation that uses the Walmart Great Value Shortening... That formulation was made so that ANYONE in the US could buy ALL of their fats from Walmart or a Grocery Store. Bake Rite is the brand of shortening that is the same as the GV animal and veg shortening. For the castor oil part, up until 3 weeks ago when Bulk had a sale, I was using Humco Castor oil in the little 6 ounce bottles. Obviously, it's cheaper to buy it by the gallon (e.g.: 7 lbs jug), but the Humco castor oil works PERFECTLY well, and it's not horrifically expensive from Walmart. Another gel inducing method that you can do it wrap it up in an electric blanket. (If it volcanoes though... IJS...) If your oven can go down to 150 I'd go with that temperature if I could. 3 other ingredients can heat soap up by simply being present. 1. Milk or dairy (That's a SURE BET EVERY TIME) 2. Honey (It is also another one that always seems to heat the hell out of soap) 3. TD. YEP titanium dioxide will heat the soap up REALLY REALLY HOT and REALLY REALLY fast. (It's why you get glycerin rivers with TD) If you can eliminate any or all of those you can definitely make a cooler acting soap. High CO content soap WILL HEAT UP. Lard also heats up pretty good as I recall... HTH! Slainte, Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services.