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coachtom

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Everything posted by coachtom

  1. I have a direct heat melter and love it. I did not want to worry about distilled water and evaporation. HeatRite made mine. Two heaters. Works great. Increased our production a ton this year.
  2. Does any one have a source for wrap around labels for 3" diameter round and 3.5" square pillar candles. The avery and onlinelabels are not quite long enough and have adhesive on the entire label. Would like to have adhesive only to join them. Thanks!
  3. I have used 2530 from Candle Wic and really like it. Looks great and has great cold and hot throw. I saw this wax at a shop in the mountains of NC and loved the appearance and characteristics. Below is the data sheet. 2530H is a specialty blend of paraffin candle wax that promotes mottling in container candles. 2530H Recommendations: 2530HMottling wax blend for container candles. Product Information Typical Properties Melting Point (ASTM D-87) 126-130ºF Oil Content (ASTM D-721) 0.5% Penetration @ 25ºC (D-1321) 18 dmm Additives Always use UV additives to prevent photodegradation. Use the fewest number of additives possible for mottling applications. Color Add color at 190 - 195 degrees F (some colors or dyes may require hotter temperature to eliminate sediment). Cool colored wax to180 - 185 degrees F. Use color that is soluble in wax to prevent undissolved sediment in the wax. Sediment can block the wax flow in the wick and result in a poor burning candle. Liquids, powders, blocks and buttons are typically soluble in waxes. Do not use pigment dyes, as they will clog the capillary action of the wick and are only intended to be used in over dipping. Fragrance Add fragrance just before pouring to avoid fragrance loss. Don't exceed 5% fragrance loads in your candles. Higher fragrance levels can cause sweating. Each fragrance has its own unique characteristics that may perform differently in waxes. Typically, heavier fragrances will have an adverse effect on your candle's burn. We suggest test burning your fragrance, wax and color combination to ensure you are getting an acceptable burn performance. You may need to adjust fragrance levels to achieve a desirable trade-off between fragrance and burn performance. Stearic and Vybar Add up to 4% triple pressed stearic or 2% Vybar 343 when using fragrances with poor solubility or percentages higher than 5%. Stearic will minimize migration without greatly reducing the mottling. Higher percentages of stearic will impede mottling. Pouring We suggest for candles that are free of air bubbles, the filled containers should be pre-heated or placed in a heating vessel. Improvement of the container's side and adhesion will also be achieved by this process. Allow candles to cool to ambient temperature. Do not force cool. Forced cooling will effect the mottling. This wax will require a top off, so it is important to save enough wax from the original pour to maintain color consistency. Wicking The low melting point will help enable the candle to burn down evenly. The soot or deposits near the rim of the jar will be avoided or minimized. Wick size will be affected by the finished candle's size and shape, as well as the types and amounts of color and fragrance used. The following wick series have all been found effective in 2530H: LX, RRD, CD, Cored & RRD series of wicks. Candlewic can make recommendations
  4. coachtom

    Smelly jelly

    Could not get them to work as well as aroma beads.
  5. I have made these lately and really love the final product. We made some with Christmas Tree, Clean Cotton, Lemon Verbena, Lavender and Spearmint Eucalyptus FOs. I used quart mason jars with lids for each FO. I put 1 lb of beads in the jar. I mixed 1 ounce of FO in a small container and put two drops of dye in the FO. Stirred and then added to the beads in the jar. Put the lid on a shook like mad turning and twisting the jar. I repeated the shaking about every hour. Then every time I walked by I shook again. It took Lavender the longest to become a finished product. You want the beads to move freely in the jar without sticking to the glass. Sometimes it took up to and more than 48 hours for the beads to soak up the FO. I put them in 4 oz masons with the daisy lids that have the foam seal. (got those at Lone Star) Sold everyone I made at our open house. They will last about 6+ weeks. I have the Christmas Tree one in our bathrooms.....amazing. Great for small spaces. Nature Garden has the recipe. Good luck !! PS Great for sachets as well but never tried.....
  6. Has anyone found a FO that mimics Christmas Eve from Yankee Candle? Thanks!
  7. One of my best sellers last year in 464....using it in ParaSoy this year. Still curring.
  8. Christmas Tree from Fillmore is the best Spruce scent I have tried. Thanks for the recommendation!!!
  9. As always...thanks for your feedback. Have not tried the Christmas Tree from Fillmore or Christmas Tree from Community Candle. Will try both....Thanks!!
  10. I have tried several suppliers...anyone have a favorite fresh cut spruce scent they really like? From whom? Thanks!
  11. As a general rule what is the typical UV amount/measurement to add to a parasoy blend wax. I have read many threads and the common amount varies but is somewhere around 1/2 tsp per pound of wax. Any recommendations/experience would be greatly appreciated. I use Clarus 3022. Thanks!!
  12. I will take some pics of some. Definitely not a palm wax. I have poured several glass glow and others and it is more opaque than that.
  13. I was in Wal-Mart today...a place I hate...but...I saw the Cottage Candle line. Nice fragrances, seemed to have strong CT. The jar was a Mason style. The wax appearance is what caught my eye. It looked as if it was mottled like a pillar would be but almost translucent. They called it a 'blended wax' on the label. Does anyone know a container wax that can give you that look that you have had success with? Hope your summers are going great !! Thanks in advance for your input.
  14. I too use Avery. Print them at home. Buy labels from Amazon. I designed a specific look for the line of candles we make. I made a unique one for Aromatherapy, Palm and Blended wax line. I just change the scent name to match. Same background. We have come up with a great lid jar combo with lots of complements. I tried the fancy pics and labels and it never sold any more or less.
  15. Old Glory, My thought process was that every chart recommendation for this diameter jar indicates the use of one wick. I have seen candles in many stores in status or similar diameter jars with one wick. Those are only assumptions. I have only tested single wicks or wick that are doubled (back to back). I have tried several widths. I have seen differences in the quality of wicks from different sources. I have tons more testing to do but wold like to start with a quality wood wick from a good source.
  16. Have tried a few vendors and can not get a good single wick combination. Using c-3 in 12 oz status jars. The jar should be small enough to use a single wick. Some just smolder, others are too hot. I can't seem to find a good size. Maybe its a poor quality wood wick. I do not use dye in these. The FO is at 6%. I have tried ones from Lonestar and WoodWick. Thanks!
  17. Peppermint Bark for CS is one of our favorites.
  18. Hard to say. I think it is 70% soy and 30% paraffin. Doubt you would have the wet spots and seepage. I really don't have the experience really to comment. Maybe Steve can chime in. I think he has been using 3022 for several years. now.
  19. Must say quite impressed with Clarus 3022. Was looking for a blended option to remove frosting and other soy issues with colored candles that has great cold and hot throw (6-7% FO). 3022 is very easy to work with, holds color well, nosecond pour and finished product looks great. Wicking was relatively simple. Thanks Steve for the tips on 3022 !!
  20. Steve, Do you find the CDN wicks compatible in size to CDs for 3022? Testing CDs now....looking good but ordered CDNs to test as well.
  21. What type of policy(s) cover candle resales? I would assume additional liability of sorts. I would speculate its specific to the business of candle making or am I wrong?
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