eatra

there is a company who will send you a roll of metal tape as a sample ..google "aluminum tape " i did and got a free roll ,,,but i cant remenber what company it was .

i must admit thoes metal screws chew up some wick i wondered if a softer or duller screw were avalible about like a rubber screw ...i know it sounds crazy but it would be less abrasive ...i do not belive i could get a rubber plug in the wick hole of a mold with a size 05 beeswax wick that stuff is square and thick ..but now a screw would be more effective if only it didnt bite into the wick material so .metal screws have vecious sharp ripping threads .if the threads on the screw were made of rubber they would be less abrasive and more flexable but still be effective as a screw and perhaps function more effectively than a plug

today i rebatched 2 batches of pillars and they were void of air pockets aside from using the suggested candle tech method . i also primed the wick which i belive contributed to the absents of air pockets .one second pour using the vent method delivered a smoothe flat surface on the bottom of the candle.

it never occured to me to use a screw to tie the wick securely to the bottom of the mold ...i had just been using a knot but found my self falling short on the exposed wick used to light the candle ...dose any one know if this wick screw is special or is it just any short screw that i can find in my old box of left over hardware that fits the hole?truth is I dont have time to order special screws and it looks like i will be using potters clay to seal the holes because i live in the middle of no where so my options are slim for the 60 mile round trip into town and back ....but for the future i am going to have to look into the puddy idea ..thanks again for being here ...

candle making with all the new intors of soy palm bees wax and other varities has become a comlicated process ..It is not as simple as it seems ...thank goodness for sites like this on the internet or i would surely be lost with out more precise instructions ...i just spent 2 days making 3 diffrent batches of essential oil pillars using the old fashioned method and all of them have voids and the caps i put in the wells pop off ... i came looking for help here and today i am redoing all three batches using the method discribed on the site ...which i belive will help me eliminate the voids and the rings that develope around the bottom and the cap itself will remain secure because it will be incorperated more with the rest of the candle ...i have learned for a candle to just look good on the out side is not all it takes to make a beautiful functional candle ...

some parrifin wicks are suposed to bend just a bit ..apparently the curve in them is a part of a self trimming process ..it is difficult to get a wick to stand up when the pool has become too deep ..i put a recomendation on my one pour soy jar candles to not burn it longer than 2 or 3 hours at a time befor you extinquish it and let it cool then relite it .a lot of my clients are naturalists and would never knowingly use a zink wick ..