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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/24/2020 in all areas

  1. This topic has been posted many times over, but let me tried to post this one more time for new comers with another interesting topic. There are only 4 things required by regulation to be put on our labels in US. But I see so many out there who cannot do this right. 1. Your company name 2. Product identification: If your product is a candle, then it must state that it is a candle. 3. Net weight in both oz and grams 4. Manufacturer's(your company) full address These information has to go on main level, and it requires to be places on side when its possible
    2 points
  2. I am for about a 6 or 7, a lot of the scents I use smell like crap if you load them up to 10 or 12%, it’s just not needed if you know how to make a good candle.
    2 points
  3. Ideally, a 6-7 for me. I want to smell it where it's lit, maybe a light drift into an adjacent room, not on the other side of the house or a different floor. Just a bit of ambience, a little atmosphere. But I often have to aim a little higher - about a 9 - to compete with those cheap paraffin candles that people have grown used to and expect. It's hard convincing some people to buy a higher priced, non-paraffin candle that isn't suffocatingly strong.
    2 points
  4. Hello All! I'm so excited to find this forum. I have some general candle making questions that I hope you can answer for me. I am purely looking to make some of my own good quality candles to give as gifts and not to sell. I've watched several online videos and it would be nice to just get the basics down so I don't spend a small fortune on a craft that turns out a complete bust. I want to use recycled empty Gerber Baby food jars and Oui Yogurt jars to make small candles. I have so many and this might be a great way to repurpose some of them. Of course, I could be wrong about using
    1 point
  5. If we were to scale HT strength in 1 to 10(1 being weakest and 10 being strongest) , then what would be your target HT strength of your candles and the reason? Let me go first. My goal is around 7. Personally I prefer HT strength in this level, and luckily I found many who likes this kind of strength. *Of course measuring HT strength would be very subjective that can be totally different from person to person. But let's try our best.
    1 point
  6. @TallTayl🤦‍♀️I promise I can read. You just moved your ceramics studio.
    1 point
  7. Disgusting isn’t it?
    1 point
  8. I am right about with you. 7 is my favorite number, and it fits well with your topic. too much scent is not a good goad thing. When you can taste the FO in the air it is nauseating. A candle enhances a room, but does not need to punch you in the face.
    1 point
  9. Yes I have seen wicks that can catch up quickly between burns. But like you said earlier, there are many wicks that won't catch up but perform superior. I am the one who choose to go for performance over hmm I don't think my candles are unsafe but here it is "safety". I guess we are all different. Thank you for your input!
    1 point
  10. I find melts MUCH easier to get HT. It comes down to your wax melt point in the end, but the FO I have to offer my first (and only born) as a sacrifice to the HT deities in candles do their job without any trouble in melts.
    1 point
  11. Thank you for the link. I can't even take that website seriously.
    1 point
  12. Oops! I did this when I was a beginner. Laundry clothespins are another alternative for beginners.
    1 point
  13. 2) Any Non-contact infrared thermometer should work well. No need to look for certain brand. Walmart has variety choices including good price on Presto Pots. 3) I use this to mark center of containers. It should be self explanatory looking at pictures. *There are other ways to do it for clear glass. 5) If you try to install by hand, then wick can break off from wick tab. Try to use this as pictures show. Blank of Bic ball point pen works best as wick installing holder. 7) All scented oils do not smell pleasant. It is
    1 point
  14. I think this is a good point about the difference in wax hardening. I don't use paraffin or soy anymore but I found with palm for example you don't want to test burn it until its at least 3 days old. Otherwise it melts way too quickly and gives you an entirely different burn then if you waited a few days.
    1 point
  15. I went to C&S to check on the cost of buying a case of palm with shipping costs so I could update my COG spreadsheet. The wax is the same price but the shipping is now $80+ for the one case. Yikes! It has almost doubled since last year. This is why I pick up when I can instead of shipping. But $80 is just Wowee!!!!
    0 points
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