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megfarwell

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  1. Lemon Biscotti Pie from Bert's.... YUM!
  2. Thanks so much! I never thought of this, but I would just bet you are exactly right. The bottom of the first purple jar was obviously fine, but the bottom on the green jars is much thicker glass, so of course it would take longer to heat up! Plus, I don't think I paid too much attention to the bottoms in the first place. Yay! Will have to try it tonight. :yay:
  3. Yep that is a 10 oz cube.....I made 2 of those and wicked one with CSN 12 and one with CSN 14. I didn't take a picture of them cause the pattern was really really terrible :rolleyes2. I haven't burned the cubes yet, but so far the 14's burning in my straight sided 3 inch jars have been a little too hot, so I'm hoping they will work in the cubes. Guess I'll have to keep experimenting with the cooling! I am really liking this wax so far though. I've tried 3 FO's and gotten great throw from all of them so far.....a much different story than when I was trying soy and couldn't get a throw from anything!
  4. First pic is scented 1 oz per pound of Lavender from Berts, part of a violet dye block. Poured at 190, set on trivet and cooled under box.....forgot to prewarm the container. Second and third pics are scented 1 oz Coconut Lime from Berts, part lime green dye block. Poured at 190, cooled under box, prewarmed jars with heat gun. As you can see, I'm getting pretty distinct bands at the top and bottom of my jars. The lavender I'm not so concerned about because I forgot to warm my jar and I'm sure that had something to do with it. The green jars were warmed, set on a trivet, and put under a box, so they should have pretty even cooling all around. Would the bands on the green jars be because they're cooling too fast at the top and bottom? I think the pattern looks pretty good other than that. On the green jars, I did lift up the box I think 3 times to "wreck" the jars. Please let me know what you think! Thanks!
  5. When I first read this I thought it said Slutty Angel... LOL!! :laugh2:
  6. I've just started testing my candles and tarts a few months ago. In order to start the most economic way possible, I have bought exclusively from Bert, and all of her oils have been great for me. My only complaint is she doesn't have some of the more exotic and complex oils out there, but at this point for me, that's okay. I'm looking for a good price and great quality while I'm still getting my feet wet, so it's another vote for Bert's here!
  7. Got my wax today, and poured two testers tonight wicked CSN 12 & 14, 3 in straight sided tumbler, and 1 oz CS Very Vanilla. :yay: Everything seemed like it went so fast! My wicks weren't sticking very well to the bottom of the jars, but I said screw it, and poured them anyway. I decided to warm my jars in the microwave.......then realized THAT wasn't such a good idea when I saw the metal tabs start sparking! Oops! So then, finally got my jars situated, looked over, and the wax had cooled to 175. Crap! Got it warmed back up and finally poured the jars. Now I'm impatiently waiting for them to cool off so I can see what my patterns look like. I poured both at 190, left one out in open, and put one under box to see how that affects things. Wish me luck!
  8. Something else to add here.......I just looked at Candle Science's liquid dyes, and according to them, 1 oz. will color 40 lbs of wax to a "medium" shade. So.....if you're using their recommendations, it would seem that 3-6 drops will make the "medium" shade. If you can get 40 lbs out of one 1 oz bottle, and a 1 oz bottle costs $4.95, 4.95/40 = $.12 per pound to color to "medium" shade. For comparison's sake, with my 600 drops in a bottle theory above, and using 3 drops/per pound of wax, it came out to $.03 per pound. To make a long story short......I think you're going to have to count your drops to be really accurate!
  9. Well, I know when I was in college, for our science classes we always used 20 drops = 1 ml. Just did a google search, and there is 30 ml in 1 ounce, so 30 ml x 20 drops = 600 drops in an ounce? I've never used liquid dyes, so I have no idea if that seems accurate or not. The only other way I could think to do it would be to physically count out all the drops you use, by using a tally sheet at your pour station maybe? If you think 600 drops seems right, I guess then it would be a matter of how many drops per pound you use. HTH!
  10. I just ordered some Glass Glow from CS....supposed to get here on Tuesday. I'm SURE I'll be pouring that night, so I'll try to get some pictures posted!
  11. If anyone is looking for just the caps, Bert's sells them for $.20 each, and offers first class shipping, so you can get them for pretty cheap. I added them on to one of my orders and use them on all my FO bottles (plastic). http://bertsheavenscent.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=135
  12. I've ordered some Glass Glow palm to start playing around with, and I'd also like to get some dyes to go with this. What type of dyes work best with this wax, liquid or chips? And, does anyone know of a place with a sampler pack for a good price? TIA!!
  13. Oh no.....I am feeling tempted to try the palm! My husband is going to KILL me! I've been working with soy for about 4 months and not having good results. I also think palm makes a really beautiful candle.
  14. Congrats! I'm using that jar and having a tough time getting it wicked to get any scent throw with GB 415. Your success gives me hope!
  15. I think this thread just goes to show how different everyone can be even when using the same waxes. I use 415 also, and have had nothing but trouble from CD's. They are big time dancers and give me no hot throw. They were my first wick when I started testing but I just can't get them to work for me. Now I'm using ECO's and I'm fairly pleased with them so far.
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