Pipestr

I really have to rethink it all - I was adding color at 185 or so, then letting cool to about 175, and adding the FO, which would in itself take the temp closer to 160/165, a quick stir, and pour.....

Wow - that is the popposite of what I have been doing ........and I have no clue why, other than I was afraid to add the FO at higher temp, thihnking it would dissapate too much from the heat .......... I do not use a lot of additives - in fact for pillars, I am currently thinking the wax I have does nto need any. It is pretty confusing, in that the website calls it a 130, and it has slight amount of additive to their 3134, but the bag says CI 323? here is the lionk http://www.candlewic.com/store/Product.aspx?q=c60,p1354&title=Paraffin-Wax-130 The FO i have says to add it at 180 to 200 and pour, which seems too high for the 132 MP wax maybe? plus with my set up - no way I can get it too 200 degrees. I am SO confused LOL.

Thanks - tho now I have probably enough color chips to do 300lb of wax and I onely use about a pound a week LOL. Back to my original question tho - how long do you hold a temp, once you acheive it? As I say - I am taking it to about 185 then adding the color and vybar, and stirring. Do I need to do that for a few seconds, a few minutes, 1/2 hour, hour? I have read everything I can , and simply do not see an answer to that.

Have been afraid of them - as the recommended usage I see is so low - when only doing a maximum of 1 1/2 lb paraffin at a time. Does an eyedropper work? how many drops would you use to a pound? I am certainly open to suggestions. Also not sure we are on same page in terms ofg consistancy - I meant in a single candle - going to try tp post a picture. got it! WHOO HOO!

Not sure I follow the logic, of why 'dilutiing' the color block is a problem. I must be missing something. IN my (pea)brain - I ised the exact same parrafin with the color block, that i make the candles from. With the block being about 1/4 X 1 X 1/2 " (roughly) and being for 20 lbs - for me to try to get any consistancy at all, making 4 pillars at just over 1 lb I have to try to shave less than 1/16" of the block - not going to happen. Even the blocks I bought from Yaley that have scores along the top, and are clkoser to 3/4 X 1 X 1 1/2 ...... there is no way to melt the block only and make chips - they would be so tiny - and my scales will not measure lwess than 5/100 of an oiunce? I must be missing something - please help yes I know FO can vary on wick - but I make candles for my own personal use, or occaisionally give a few to my kids. So some variance is not a big deal, and I have found I need to vary the amount of FO depending on the scent.

I am all about being cheap when it comes to hobbies lol. In fact when I first started making candles - I was trying to re-use wax from old candles that didnt burn up all the way - found out that isnt a good thing LOL And I re-use the aluminum tea light cups over and over again. still playing with how to clean them from residue - usually I thow them in water that is above 170 for a few minutes, then let it cool - all the wax etc floats to the top and hardens, so I can pick it up and throw it away. rofl

Just recently got wickpins for my pillars. When I looked atthem, couldnt really decide how to use them, and figured I had wasted the money (aq whopping 5 bucks on 4! lol). Then I tried them and love them - the time it takes to pull the candle from the mold, remove the pin, and thread the wick thru, is much ;less than the time I used to spend sealing the bottom around the wick, and trying to center it at the top and have it taut. From that, I had an idea - I like tee lights - but again - wicking was a problem. So I bought 2" galvaniized rooofing nails. I put a drop oif wax in the cup, stick the nail in, and pour. Once cool - chill them slightly, and the candle comes out of the cup - push the pin out, insert the wicked tab, and put it back in the cup. I did 50 of them last night - and was incredible! If the naikl ends up slightly off of center - it doesnt seem to matter much, and with the indent in the center of the alumimum cup - you can be real close. Thought I would see what anyone thinks of the idea? OH - and MUCH cheaper than the molds they sell - I just line the cups up on an old cookie sheet and pour - then the whole sheet can go in the fridge for 3 or 4 minutes after thaey have set!

SWolved some of my problems I think, from wehen I first posted here - now am trying to improve. Since I have a gasd stove. I am using a hotplate - it does boil water. I have created my pwn double boiler, using a 4Qt saucepan, with a cast iron 3 legged tri-something (forget what it is called), but it elevates the wax container about 3/8 in from the bottom - so boil bubbles are not making the melt pot (a modified aluminum coffee can)bounce. That part all works and pours well. I make 2" X 4" pillars, and tea lights with any left over from my 'top-off'. I am using a CI 323 paraffin, 1% 343 vybar, and 3 to 4% F.O. Fopr dye, I got blocks of dye (for 20 lbs), melted it and mixed it with 1 lb paraffin, then poured it into sheets, and scored it (like you would a candy), so I have manageable chunks of dye. Since I only do about 22 oz of wax at a time (4 pillars), trying to get the dye shaved and measured was simply impossible - now with my 'diluted' blocks, I can add .75oz of them, and have a dye block to 20 lbs ratio. I am using LX14 wicks I get my wax to 185 or so, and add vybar and dye. Then let it slowly cool (while stirring) by reducing temp to about 175, and add 4% to 5% FO and stir ( which cools it to 170/165) warm my molds (using wick pins) and pour. I trim the wicks to between 1/4 - 3/8, and let the candle sit for a few days before I burn it. Here are the problems - sometimes I get an uneven color, and sometimes I get wick drown, but no consistancy on either. Should I be letting it sit at 185/190 longer after I add dye and vybar? Right now it is about 15 minutes from peak temp to 175. How long do you keep your wax in the melting pot? OH - and no way I can easily get the temp above 190 - it would take hours lol.

Thanks rj shipping for me on slab is 18 - so 35 total

Thanks!

Ladysj, I felt the same way, untill this week, when hobby lobby prices went up from 14.99 to 24.99 for a 10 lb slab. Tho I would like to get more scent as the candle burns (is that what everyone is calling throw?) - hot/copld throw simply are not phrases I know ....... I would like to get to a full 8% Fo, or even higher - been adding vybar at a 1 to 2% rate - should I do more? would stearic help(I have never added it)? What is your pour temp? as a side note - I had been trying to use a digital thermometer, with a probe but found the temp varied as much as 25 degrees, based on how much of the probe was in the pot ....... finally went back to basic candy thermometer, and am dealing with reading it ô ¿ ô

ok - any idea how this 3134 might compare to your 4625? Where do you order the 4265, and what kind of price is it? Thanks

Ah - Thank you much.

rj, the numbering on wax doesnt seem to 'click' in my brain - it seems every supplier slaps their own number system on it? For example, I found a paraffin in small pellet form - says it is #130, and is a variant of #3134 blended for pillars ...... Price seems good, and can get 55 lbs for 85 bucks including shipping ............. I am making candles right now at about 5 LB a week - but that may slow down?

blacktie - not sure why you think I am in New Mexico .... have not been able to do much on my profile - when I click on "My Profile", it sats I dont have access? Oh well - I am ino Central Ohio. I will look at the suppliers liisted - thanks!