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This unfortunately doesn’t surprise me. Having worked professionally as a candle maker for 25 years, and in the supply business for 17, I’ve seen a lot of companies fail. I’m shocked it didn’t come sooner. I personally love Dan, but the constant changes in his line from the first buckets of soy made it impossible for me to consistently produce a quality product. I am no longer in the business, but still make product for gifts and personal use, and it never crossed my mind to go back.

The problem is, it's not technically be advertised correctly. It is a blue, which when added to something that is slightly off white, will give the illusion of being whiter due to the blue. It should take a very small amount and isn't really a dye, more a product that will just work to make a candle seem whiter than it naturally is.

I tested this product years ago with no adverse effects quite extensively as I worked for a supplier. I am wondering if it was not the amount you used or the scent causing the need for a different wick?

Not sure why you want a mottle if you don't want paraffin? Straight paraffin burns exceptionally clean, has no added chemicals and is simply a byproduct of crude oil, which is far more organic than that GMO soy. Just tossing out some little known facts the soy council has managed to blow over.

I'd probably avoid beer cans. Aluminum cans are VERY thin compared to a tin. If you've ever tossed an empty can into a lit fire, you know how fast they combust. Nope, probably not a good idea PLUS getting a smooth edge...

OMG who suggested that?! NO! Red will not fix this. And why would you even consider adding red. I did their tech support from 1999-2016, you would never add red. What wax are you using? A Soy will take a lot more than a paraffin. Also, are you sure all particles are dissolving? I add my dye to the fragrance, and make sure it's solubilizing well before adding to the wax. You can also add to direct heat and steric acid. You may find you need to wick up when using a black dye, or any dye you need a fair amount of, but I assure you, that that will make a true black, even in soy

Candy Bee, all dye for candles begins as a powder, and is either mixed into solvents for liquids or wax, polymer etc for chips and flakes.

I think you re simply making this more work than it needs to be or should be, and also creating a HUGE storage nightmare for yourself.

True of any wax. The thing is, normally you would not have weeks to months to cure a candle. I did only wholesale, so my orders were out the door in a week or less. Meaning my scents needed to be optimal within that time frame. It really will still limit what works well in your wax and you can use long term depending on how you sell. If you only did shows, then do them early and let them cure!

There are a lot of perfume houses in the US. I would say it is absolutely possible and more than likely probable that they are.

Yes

All of the above. I have not worked there in about three years, but was there almost 20! Lotion base, LOVE LOVE LOVE it! Very thick but does not leave you greasy and soaks in so you don't need to reapply a dozen times a day. Protein Mist. Not a huge fan for a body spray but I love it as a light leave in hair conditioner and it works especially well as a detangler for kids hair. Shower Gel. I like it but it can thin to water very easily so go slow with the FO and test each scent. Cyclomethicone - great for room and body spray! Holds a LOT of fo! Most mix well.

I never use an FO that requires more than 6%. Truly, even at 9-10%, that is a LOT of fragrance. A good quality fo, combined with the proper wax, wick and room size to candle diameter should be plenty adequate. Sometimes using more actually suppresses the burn and the candle smells less than had you used less FO to begin with.

Try backing off on the FO. The more you use, the more soot you will encounter.

Is this a pillar candle? If so, what wax are you using specifically and what additives if any?