Switching from tabbed HTP wicks to spools and adding tabs myself?

[Darbla]

I normally have purchased HTP-105 as tabbed wicks, but am thinking about making my own. Being a newbie to trying this with spools of HTP-105, Is there anything you seasoned experts could fill me in on? The only thing I can think of is that the spools are not going to be waxed, but do I really need that anyway when I can get it straight in my candle in other ways? I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything important. Thanks!

[Camay]

I have tabbed my own wicks before. I found it hard to "pinch" the tab enough to really secure the wick on there. I used a pair of pliers that were not small enough, and that was one of my problems. I didn't have any smaller ones though. It is time-consuming too.

If you use raw wick, the wick will take up a lot of wax. This was not a problem for me since I was making pillars, and was doing several pours.

I have since switched to the custom wick builder at candlewic (with coupons).

[Darbla]

I have since switched to the custom wick builder at candlewic (with coupons).

I thought about that too. Think I need to refigure costs and see if that might be the best way to go.

Another concern I have is whether the properties of the spooled HTP-105 might be different than of the tabbed wicks I've been buying. Theoretically you'd hope not, but I just don't know. Do all HTP wicks come from a single source, or do different sources make them in different enough ways that they wouldn't all burn the same?

Edited April 22, 2012 by Darbla

[HorseScentS]

I normally have purchased HTP-105 as tabbed wicks, but am thinking about making my own. Being a newbie to trying this with spools of HTP-105, Is there anything you seasoned experts could fill me in on? The only thing I can think of is that the spools are not going to be waxed, but do I really need that anyway when I can get it straight in my candle in other ways? I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything important. Thanks!

Based on my reading, the wick should be primed with a high-melt-point wax, like 212 degree wax, for safety so it won't flop over in a deep melt pool. Peak's primes their wicks with 212 degree wax.

[SliverOfWax]

I've used HTP and CD wicks from Candlewic custom wick builder for years, and buy only when they have their 1/2 price sale. I have always used standard coating and have never had a wick flop over in my testing.

I've never crimped my own.My eyes aren't that good and my hands aren't that steady. In other words, not worth the time or potential savings.

[rjdaines]

You can buy a crimper at craft stores like Hobby Lobby, pliers don't work as well and can deform the base. As far as priming, you can prime your own with any wax you choose. Cut wicks to some length and place them in a pot with you molten wax. You will see air escape a bubbles. Pull them out, lay them out straight and let the wax harden. Some place pressurize the process for complete removal of air but that takes special equipment. As far a wicks flopping, I believe this was during the pouring process but if you have a wick holder and the wick is help taught I don't see this as a problem. During the candle burn I don't think this is an issue, I certainly don't see the wick flop over in my pillars.

[nursenancy]

I tab my own votive wicks from a spool and it saves me money. You get into a rhythm with it after awhile, but here is how I do it. I string alot of tabs on the wick 4 or 5 at a time. They can be sort of stacked in your fingers in 5's if you know what i mean, then I crimp them with a pair of needle nose pliers, dip them in manageable strings in my votive wax, hang them to harden, then cut them with a very sharp pair of small scissors. This way they are straight when I use them. The weight of the whole string straightens them out. I've been doing this for years. My husband calls it "wicking off" LOL. I tab container and tealight wicks, too, but I don't prime them beforehand because you can't adhere them to the bottom of the jar if the wick tab has wax on it.

[ksranch]

I use raw wick and make my own as well. Once you have a 'system' down, it doesn't take that long - and I find it saves me money and I waste less.

[redraider]

When I first started I would by 6 inch pretabbed wicks, cut those in half and then crimp the other end with a tab myself. I found I could do about 100 ok but after that my hand would get tired and I would think they were crimped but then would find out I didn't get it done good enough and they would pull out. My husband would help me in a pinch but he finally said BS. I discovered the custom wick builder at candle wic and now every time they have the 50% off I order enough to last 6 months. You may save money out of your pocket putting your own tabs on but the time you spend doing it does not justify the savings, at least for me. Wicks are pennies each whether you make them or someone else. Why ruin your hands and believe me over time it will. The though of hand crimping 40,000 wicks a year makes me cry and would be time well spent testing new products, building my website or relaxing.

[David Fields]

We would never go back to making wicks ourselves. Never. We started out doing it; then, it seemed like all we were doing was making tabbed wicks. Finally I laboriously figured out the actual cost per type of wick and found that it was either a breakeven or marginally cheaper to make them ourselves. And that did not include our time.I still remember the first time we got pre-tabbed wicks from Atkins and Pearce. My wife and i both laughed and said never again. Plus, when you start ordering at larger quantities, the pre-tabs are much cheaper. It really is about how many candles you pour. Few, tab yourself. Many, at a point it becomes a no-brainer.

[Candybee]

The only time I use raw wicking is for when I do pillars. Even then I get the wicking primed but for some pillar waxes thats not necessary.

For containers-- no way! I always use pre-tabbed wicks. I make cases of candles at a time and just don't have time to prime and tab my own wicks. Besides in the end it won't save me money for the cost of materials and my time considered. I just buy in large quantities and save money that way. Much easier and cost effective. JMO

[rjdaines]

The only time I use raw wicking is for when I do pillars. Even then I get the wicking primed but for some pillar waxes thats not necessary.

For containers-- no way! I always use pre-tabbed wicks. I make cases of candles at a time and just don't have time to prime and tab my own wicks. Besides in the end it won't save me money for the cost of materials and my time considered. I just buy in large quantities and save money that way. Much easier and cost effective. JMO

Yes, this is pretty much what I do though I will re-tab wick trimmings from pre-tabbed wicks that came from short containers. Waste not, want not.

[JanetsCandles]

I use raw wicking for certain shaped candles. They don't have a way of really using wick tabs in them, just because I can't use a wick pin in them in the first place. On my containers, I use pre wicked HTPs. I found that you can order custom sizes over at Candlewic.

For the pillars, I use raw wick that I prime and tab myself. You can tab them pretty easily with lead nipper style pliers. Hobby Lobby carries them in the stained glass area. They have a red handle and look a lot like wire cutters, but they aren't so sharp that it cuts through the tab, unless you decide to pinch it really really hard. And they don't deform the base either.

[ksranch]

You can tab them pretty easily with lead nipper style pliers. Hobby Lobby carries them in the stained glass area. They have a red handle and look a lot like wire cutters, but they aren't so sharp that it cuts through the tab, unless you decide to pinch it really really hard. And they don't deform the base either.

Thanks for that info! I haven't been able to successfully train my DH on tabbing wicks because he always manages to deform the base... I'll try one of these.

[Mike]

Reading through some old posts to try and learn about re-tabbing wick trimmings and came across this thread.

 

When you re-tab a wick trimming, what tool do you use? Someone said a needle nose pliers but isn't the end supposed to be crimped all the way around the base of the wick to snuff it when it gets to a certain point? Will it snuff correctly if it's crimped like that?

 

Thanks.

[Guest OldGlory]

I have been doing this for years. The week before my order comes in I just grab enough wicks to have 100 +/- ready.

When I buy the tabs I get the ones that are long/tall enough to crimp effectively. There are 3 lengths I think, so be sure you don't order the short ones. I get a good, solid crimp with the same pliers I use to make jewelry (not needle nose but somewhat narrow), and it's very similar to the crimp on the wicks that I purchase. Sometimes the base will curl a little but it doesn't make a bit of difference because I use a wick sticker on the tab. I get three wicks out of one longer wicks. If you have the time and hate throwing away 2/3 of a wick you should try it.

[Mike]

I definitely am going to try this. I wondered what to do with the piece of wick that I was cutting off, it seemed like such a waste. I hadn't gotten around to throwing them out and glad I saw this before i did. Thanks OG.

[Guest OldGlory]

YW! If you have several sizes of wicks, just be sure to keep the cut off pieces with the correct size.

[HorseScentS]

OG, is there an old thread about uses for wick pieces?

[Guest OldGlory]

Not that I know of. This thread was started a couple of years ago I think, so it's pretty old.

[franu61]

I also cut my 6 inch wicks into 3 and self tab the other ones,    I put little  wick pieces in the wax when I make firestarters 

[Mike]

Yes this thread is very old but I was searching around the site for answers before I asked a bunch of questions that have already been asked. Is it ok to revive an old post or should I start a new one if the one I find is very old?

[Guest OldGlory]

You can do it either way Mike.

[Mike]

Ok, thanks OG.