Glass glow palm pouring

[Candybee]

Is anyone here that uses glass glow not poking relief holes in their candles? I've experimented with a few and found they still burn okay with the air pockets left as is.

Mine tend to get the air pockets just under the surface. So far the candles I tested with the air pockets left in don't drown out or cause flare ups during burning. It takes longer for the 'top' crust to burn down but thats the only significant difference I have experienced so far.

I've been wondering if poking relief holes is really worth the extra time and effort. So I thought I would check here and see if anyone was making their candles this way.

[dnj]

I don't bother with poking relief holes either and have no problems with test burns. Sometimes there are small holes at the top but nobody seems to be bothered by it and rave about the nice strong throw they get from my candles made with this wax.

I also tried feather palm(from candlewic) in small hex jars even though it's a pillar wax they still look beautiful and burn great in the jars(no relief poking with those either)......the scent throw is awesome

Acutally I'm liking the feather palm more than the GG......makes great votives too I don't think I would attempt it in larger jars but for the little 1.5 and 3.75 and even the 6oz it works nicely.

[Johnna]

I just had a palm this morning that had no relief holes and it pretty quickly upon lighting had an air hole and the wicks got way way to big and then when I trimmed them they had issues with staying lit.

My candlepourer (Carl) had wanted to see what would happen without relief holes.... we made a decision to poke them and use the heat gun.. is a quick fix and we like to err on the side of caution.

[Candybee]

I just had a palm this morning that had no relief holes and it pretty quickly upon lighting had an air hole and the wicks got way way to big and then when I trimmed them they had issues with staying lit.

My candlepourer (Carl) had wanted to see what would happen without relief holes.... we made a decision to poke them and use the heat gun.. is a quick fix and we like to err on the side of caution.

May I ask what wicks and jar & size you are using?

I've tried several of my jar palm candles and so far no problems with flare ups. I use 12 & 16 oz salsa jars with CSN12's. I also noticed that the glass glow I get from CS is better quality than I get from C&S.

[Debbie73]

I use cd wicks and have never had one flare up, by not poking holes. When I tried cdn wicks, I got a larger flame, but for me it was no bigger of a flame than when I was testing the csn's.

I have tried to single wick with different wicks, but I always come back to the cd's (DW'ing) I saw that someone tried wicking with eco's and since I have some, I'll test it out when I get the time.

Deb

I use status jars 7.5 and 10 oz. w/ cd wicks. As I previously stated, I have not had problems with flare ups with the cd's.

Edited July 19, 2010 by Debbie73
add on

[soy327]

I'm bring this back to life still wondering, I always poke relief holes, and ruin the tops, heat gun, then warm my leftover wax for a second pour and pour at about 195(uaually the next day). Is anyone using a different method to get the air pockets out. If so I would like to hear different techniques please.

I don't bother with poking relief holes either and have no problems with test burns. Sometimes there are small holes at the top but nobody seems to be bothered by it and rave about the nice strong throw they get from my candles made with this wax.

I also tried feather palm(from candlewic) in small hex jars even though it's a pillar wax they still look beautiful and burn great in the jars(no relief poking with those either)......the scent throw is awesome

Acutally I'm liking the feather palm more than the GG......makes great votives too I don't think I would attempt it in larger jars but for the little 1.5 and 3.75 and even the 6oz it works nicely.

Does feather not rattle around in the jar because of no adhesion? shrinkage? I have always wanted to try this maybe I will.

Edited November 5, 2010 by soy327

[topofmurrayhill]

Breaking the top crust and doing a second pour for Glass Glow candles messes up the aesthetics and significantly increases labor. I think that's the worst solution.

Unfortunately, depending on your wicking strategy, having air pockets right beneath the top surface of the candle can have a bad effect on the burn. That's why I think the best practice is to pour and cool the candles so that the air pockets end up at the bottom instead of the top.

In countless test burns I've never had air pockets at the bottom of a palm pillar or container cause a problem or even affect the burn in an obvious way.

[Wessex]

I do not second pour GG. I have tried wrecking the tops of containers, using heat gun, etc. and just can't justify the added labor. I wick with CSN's and trim them to 1/4 to 3/8 inch to account for the slight "flare" when they first hit the air pocket. I have not had it affect my burns in 100's of test burns. I have also never had any complaints, or have anyone mention it at all. But each chandler has their own thoughts on the subject, and I find no fault with anyone who does do a second pour. If I thought it would negatively effect the burn, I definately would do a repour.

As far as Feather Palm, no longer wreck and repour either. Found that there is not really any air pockets (sometimes a very small void or two which do not cause any problems) when I have cut apart test pillars. To me, Feather is a dream to work with, you can abuse it all you want and it still makes a great looking candle!

Cheers,

Steve

[soy327]

Thancks for the replies, I like hearing other opinions.

Having said that I really just want to make a safe candle. I am trying to experiment with techniques so the candle has a nice crystal appearance. You are both right it is very labor intensive, and I do take the time needed in the proccess.

Anyone Else?

[safetysue]

[That's why I think the best practice is to pour and cool the candles so that the air pockets end up at the bottom instead of the top.

Would you share how this is achieved?

[Stella1952]

I wreck mine. It doesn't take much extra time and insures no voids. A minor flare-up causes me personally little concern; but when I am SELLING them to others, it causes me great heartburn because I do not know how much or how little attention others pay to their candles when burning them. I don't want to take a risk when it comes to safety, especially when I can mitigate the concern. The last thing I want is for a flare to occur and cause a problem for a customer, no matter how many "rules" of candle burning they break.

While the surface does have a different (very fine) crystal pattern after heatgunning, I do not find it objectionable. Because I "wreck" carefully, neatening up the top with a heat gun is easy and quick. In any case, the difference in pattern changes when the candle is burned, so this is a non-issue IMHO.

[Wessex]

When I mention a "flare up", I mean that the flame goes from about 3/4 inch to about 1 inch for a SHORT time. Has absolutely no safety issues whatsoever, unless someone is burning it an inch below a curtain. Any candle I produce is as safe as I can make it. When you have to pour 100 or so containers at a time, wrecking is just not needed (for me if it were a safety issue...hell yes I would wreck and repour. Others will feel different). And I always assume the person burning the candle is an idiot, LOL.

Steve

Edited November 6, 2010 by Wessex

[topofmurrayhill]

If you let the top set up and leave it alone, it's never going to look more pristine. There's no need to give that up or multiply the amount of labor required per candle with useless "wrecking" because of imaginary safety concerns. There are no flareups--either large or small--when the air pockets are at the BOTTOM. The trick is to pour the candle, wait for the wax to solidify against the glass and crust over the top, then just flip the candle upside down. That will optimize the burn and give you a perfect top.

Edited November 6, 2010 by topofmurrayhill

[Candybee]

I was wondering that myself. Maybe Top will come back and elaborate. Currently I am still poking relief holes and heat gunning the tops and with an increase in sales this additional work is making my candlemaking way too labor intensive. I just want to quit poking holes for good but am scared not too just in case a customer should get a flareup even if I haven't seen any in my testers.

So if Top or anyone can explain to me how I pour my jars to get the air pockets to form at the bottom of the candles instead of the tops I'd love to learn and try it. I always get the pockets just under the surface, usually in a half moonor quarter moon type formation.

[Candybee]

Thanks Top! I must have missed your post with the answer.

That makes so much sense to flip it over. Duh!! Why didn't I think of that??!!!! I know just when to do it too-- you can still see the wax sloshing around inside but the tops and sides have already hardened. I got to try this!!!

Thanks again Top!!!:smiley2:

Edited November 6, 2010 by Candybee

[soy327]

I think I'm having a hot flash.:laugh2:

[Stella1952]

I see the logic, but all I can see in my mind's eye is the Topsy Turvy tomato planter...:laugh2: ...and the inevitable "leaker"... :shocked2:

A mind is a terrible thing... :embarasse

[dnj]

I'm bring this back to life still wondering, I always poke relief holes, and ruin the tops, heat gun, then warm my leftover wax for a second pour and pour at about 195(uaually the next day). Is anyone using a different method to get the air pockets out. If so I would like to hear different techniques please.

Does feather not rattle around in the jar because of no adhesion? shrinkage? I have always wanted to try this maybe I will.

Yes, they did rattle around a bit but still burned beautifully. I tried it out with a mix of feather and gg(75/25) and that worked out way better as far as rattling goes but I much prefer the appearance of feather palm(candlewics) by itself. Everyone comments on how pretty they look....plus I usually will do it with the small jars( 4oz hex) and a csn 7...sometimes a 5 depending on the fo used.....and I make sure the wick is trimmed down before selling

Been working with 6006 lately....now looking foward to playing with palm again after reading this thread :smiley2: :rolleyes2

[debratant]

I tried that technique yesterday of flipping them over. I will let you know how it works.

I only made two candles as that was all the gg I had left. They are 12 oz salsa jars.

Nothing leaked at all. I'm going to burn today at some point and will report back.

Did you try it candybee?

[Candybee]

I tried that technique yesterday of flipping them over. I will let you know how it works.

I only made two candles as that was all the gg I had left. They are 12 oz salsa jars.

Nothing leaked at all. I'm going to burn today at some point and will report back.

Did you try it candybee?

I got a big candle order and craft show this coming weekend so I will be making several cases of candles. So I am going to get a lot of practice!

As far as 'leaking' goes I believe if you flip it over when the top is hard enough you should not have any leaking. I think its just a small bit of a learning curve to master the technique.

I'm certainly going to be an experienced 'flipper' by the end of this coming week!

[Candybee]

I think I'm having a hot flash.:laugh2:

No-- that was me having a 'senior' moment.

[debratant]

I burned both salsa jars last night....and no voids at all so far. Burned for 3 hours. Interested to get to the bottom of the jars now.

[blue]

I'm just wondering if this flipping technique is working for any of you folks that have tried it?

[soy327]

If you let the top set up and leave it alone, it's never going to look more pristine. There's no need to give that up or multiply the amount of labor required per candle with useless "wrecking" because of imaginary safety concerns. There are no flareups--either large or small--when the air pockets are at the BOTTOM. The trick is to pour the candle, wait for the wax to solidify against the glass and crust over the top, then just flip the candle upside down. That will optimize the burn and give you a perfect top.

Yep, Who woulda ever thought. I take my wick bar off and tuck the wick inside the jar. You can see the liquid underneath, get a cake pan or something and flip em. Good luck.

[pcbrook]

I have been doing it since I read this thread and it works like a charm! Thanks for the idea Top!!!