Jump to content

Getting a better hot throw.


Recommended Posts

Hi, I just made my first batch of soy candles with 415 soy wax. After reading more on the subject. I was surprised when my candle actually had a heat throw. Not very strong and its only noticeable after the candle had burned for an hour. They have an amazing cold throw very strong. I only lit this one to test the wicks. I let it cure for 5 days. I added the FO at 130-135 degrees. I added 1 oz FO per pound of wax. Very little dye. I know it probably needs to cure a bit longer but are there any tips for getting the throw stronger? Also is there a certain soy wax that holds fragrance better? I know it's all trial and error but I would love any help I could get. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe you are adding your fragrance oil to the wax at an extremely low temperature - too low....I would be doing it about 175 to 185.  You want that oil and wax to incorporate into one another and bind.   What  temperature did you pour your candles at?

 

Trappeur

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree about the temp.

 

At 185 the wax and fo are able to form a pretty homogenous mixture that will remain relatively stable (if cooled at a favorable rate for the particular wax). 

 

At 135 the wax molecules have begun to form a structure, and cannot as effectively hold fo molecules in a stable structure. Fo can move around easily. some soy companies advocating cool addition of fo like this call it “drift”. Drift is a kind term for an unstable candle.

 

imagine this: which holds water best: pea gravel or clay? 

Pea gravel is made of large pieces (ie. cool/cold wax). Water perks right through both evaporating easily and pooling/falling to the bottom of the container easily. 

 

Clay is made of tiny particles (ie. warm wax). It holds water like a sponge, slowly releasing the water.

 

plus, stirring cool wax makes it very hard for the air bubbles introduced during stirring to escape as the candle cools. It makes a Swiss cheese network of air bubbles under the surface. If lucky, no cavities will form, which cause wick tunneling. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I poured them at about 125 degrees. Someone who makes candles told me that adding at a lower temp would help increase the throw because adding too hot makes it evaporate. I'm still in the learning process. Also what temp do you recommend pouring at?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fragrance oil that is made for candles can take the heat (it's oil, so it can't evaporate, but could dissipate if it wasn't made for use with making candles).  For your wax, I would pour below 120dF, I think 100dF is what is recommended. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...