Donna Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 My question is this... to get the best throw you want your burn pool to be 1 inch per hour according to width of container. Am I right? So in other words a 3 inch wide container should take 3 hours to reach full melt pool to achieve the best hot throw? I've been confused by this because you are always hearing that full melt should be reached in 2 hours which kinda goes against what I just said. Thanks for any advice and help in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 A full melt pool should not be reached within two hours ... some may take four, others more. Welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donna Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 That's what I thought. It is based on the diameter of the jar correct? So much mixed information out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 It’s all dependent on the container. A full melt pool on the first couple of burns can mean a candle that is just plain too hot later in the candle’s life. You can’t judge a candle on the first burn, though with good wax, fragrance and the right wick it can begin to throw pretty quickly after being lit regardless of a melt pool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donna Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 7 minutes ago, TallTayl said: It’s all dependent on the container. A full melt pool on the first couple of burns can mean a candle that is just plain too hot later in the candle’s life. You can’t judge a candle on the first burn, though with good wax, fragrance and the right wick it can begin to throw pretty quickly after being lit regardless of a melt pool. I try to aim for a little wax being left around the edges on the 1st burn but I usually go by the 1 inch per hour rule of thumb. Shouldn't I be getting good hot throw on my first burn if everything is done right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted March 23, 2018 Share Posted March 23, 2018 On 3/18/2018 at 7:16 PM, Donna said: I try to aim for a little wax being left around the edges on the 1st burn but I usually go by the 1 inch per hour rule of thumb. Shouldn't I be getting good hot throw on my first burn if everything is done right? Yes, as TallTayl described. Are you burning in an enclosed area or a room that isn't a larger, open area? What type of wax & wick, etc. are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donna Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 On 3/23/2018 at 2:28 PM, birdcharm said: Yes, as TallTayl described. Are you burning in an enclosed area or a room that isn't a larger, open area? What type of wax & wick, etc. are you using? I am currently using C3 with HTP wicks. I test by changing out wicks according to melt pool. Like I said I like a little wax left around the edges so it will catch up as it burns down, but there are just some scents that no matter what I try I can't get a good throw from. Some are overpowering some in my opinion are not worth the work. I guess I need to quit going by what others say about this great scent that they claim they are getting this out of this world hot throw from. I'm beginning to believe what one person considers strong hot throw, another considers weak hot throw. And yes the area is open which I realize can effect hot throw, but I still don't think I would have to be within 2 feet to even smell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 (edited) I think you may be too hung up on the "right" size of the melt pool. I've had candles that have a melt pool from side to side and others only 1" or 2" on first burn. Good HT depends on lots of factors as TT mentioned. Everything from the jar size, the lip, curve of the jar, the wick, additives, no additives, colorants, FO, etc. Any and all factor into the burn and determine the HT and safety of the candle burn. You also need to factor in that how it burns at the beginning may be substantially different during the last half of the candle life as it gets closer to the bottom of the jar and the flame seeks oxygen. I wick for how well the life of the candle burns. I could have the perfect flame and what appears to be the perfect wick yet no HT. So I would switch wicks or wick series until I find the one that works the best. Seriously I don't wick for how fast the melt pool or how large the melt pool becomes for the first burn or the last. I wick for how well the life of the candle, safety, and scent throw work together as a whole. Wanted to add I do change wicks if I see too much or too little of a melt pool that results in a poorly made candle. I just don't think in terms of how many inches the melt pool is. Obviously if the melt pool goes from side to side and is 1/2" deep or more during the first hour or two of burning then I know to try a wick size down. Same with too small a pool will try a wick size larger. Edited March 26, 2018 by Candybee 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donna Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 Thank you I appreciate it... it all makes more sense now. If only there was a correct science for candle making... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 23 minutes ago, Donna said: Thank you I appreciate it... it all makes more sense now. If only there was a correct science for candle making... Awwww.... that would be awesome!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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