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Hi I just started making candles with metal molds and using Paffafin 140 melt.  I warm my molds up first than heat the wax to around 185 add my dye and stir goodthan pour my candle a 6 star mold. All my candles are not coming out clear, they all have some snow flaking or spots on them. What am I doing wrong. I don't add anything else to them. Thanks sherry

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19 minutes ago, Gardener said:

Hi I just started making candles with metal molds and using Paffafin 140 melt.  I warm my molds up first than heat the wax to around 185 add my dye and stir goodthan pour my candle a 6 star mold. All my candles are not coming out clear, they all have some snow flaking or spots on them. What am I doing wrong. I don't add anything else to them. Thanks sherry

You are probably not doing anything wrong. If you could tell use where you got your wax from or exactly what wax it is, we could probably help you more. Wax will not be clear, but what you are describing sounds like mottling, which is typical of a straight paraffin wax. To help with that you could add some vybar and stearic, but that will make your candle more opaque. 

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This is the wax: http://www.candlewic.com/store/product.aspx?q=c49,p523&title=140-Melt-Point-Wax---4144

 

Its an all purpose paraffin wax for pillars, votives, tapers, hurricanes. Sounds like a straight paraffin rather than a blend but I could be wrong. OP is right there is no description other than it having 140 MP. Also don't know the manufacturer unless its on the box it comes in.

 

The links list is as 4144?

 

Nevermind, found the additive recos in one of the product links:

Common Additives used - Stearic (2-10%), Mico 180 (1-5%),
  Vybar 103 (1-2%), C-15 (1-3%) & AstorLIte PT

 

Edited by Candybee
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I can't remember if I've used a wax similar to that in the past. The addition of the vybar in it probably isn't enough to stop the mottling effect, but it's probably there to help with fragrance retention. 

I'm going on a limb here and will say I don't think you need to heat your metal molds because they'll warm up quickly with hot wax in them. Sometimes, I found, additional heat causes some snowflake looks. I'm also going to ask if you're using metal, are you water bathing also? If so, make it a lukewarm bath to near cool because the heat will soon warm that water some too. 

If you're heating because you're trying to avoid the rustic look or you think that will get rid of pits, run a stick around your points to loosen the air. It shouldn't scratch or dent your mold. 

If none of that works, then I would be inclined to start playing around with some more additives and seeing what 2-3 T per pound might do to the wax of stearic. 

Edited by Scented
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