Jump to content

People recommending 12% fragrance


Recommended Posts

On 3/5/2018 at 10:48 AM, Candybee said:

 

I believe it when you say you read this on other sites. I just wanted to clarify that it is not a statement on the CS page you linked.

It's no joke that the capacity issue often gets confused as the recommended usage amount. I think its important to clarify to new chandlers starting out that there is a difference between recommending 12% FO load and the capacity of the wax to hold a load of up to 12%. Capacity only has to do with how much FO a wax may hold before leakage occurs and not necessarily how much you should use.

 

 

 

I think that some people may read maximum capacity as the amount they should most likely use.  A new crafter may not guess that many people only use 6% when they've seen 12% shown as maximum usage.   Ideally, I think the suppliers should show the range and not only the maximum, as it may give a false impression.  For me, with GW464, I would not put an ounce of scent into an 8-ounce candle and feel that it would still be safe when the candle gets towards the bottom, it just seems like too much scent, or FO, whichever you prefer.  :)

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use 1 oz per pound and get excellent throw.  I have used 1.5 oz and really the scent wasn't remarkably different so I went back to 1 oz.  Even the lightest scents are nice when the melt pool is good.  Just my experience

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check the Quantum 210, 220, 230 maximum load...they say it can hold 18%.  I made 3 candles with Q210, same size containers and wicks, but I did 6%, 10%, and 18% just to see if the increased FO would make a big difference in throw.  I didn't notice any scent throw difference, but the 18% candle actually caught on fire!  The whole top was burning..scared the you know what out of me!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Gary in Canada said:

Check the Quantum 210, 220, 230 maximum load...they say it can hold 18%.  I made 3 candles with Q210, same size containers and wicks, but I did 6%, 10%, and 18% just to see if the increased FO would make a big difference in throw.  I didn't notice any scent throw difference, but the 18% candle actually caught on fire!  The whole top was burning..scared the you know what out of me!!

 

*shudder* Wow! That is scary!

 

I got a question for you all. ... why do you think the candle wax manufacturers are leaning towards producing more wax types that hold larger and larger FO loads? Do you think that's what candlemakers really want? Or do they sell more wax to suppliers because they can advertise the FO load and sell more FO along with the wax?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/4/2018 at 4:49 PM, TallTayl said:

So often the fo is not even the problem. It comes down to the wick choice for that particular wax, fo and container. 

 

 

Ditto that.  I've noticed that sometimes it even comes down to WHERE you are burning the candle

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All I know is is that there is so much different information out there (most of it is reliable) on the same (any) subject when it comes to candle making. For me, it comes down to trial and error, keep detailed notes and take everything else in and write it in my notes. There is so much relying on room temps, pour temps, this wick, that wick, how much dye is being used, liquid dye, dye chips on and on. If my candles and wax melts make customers happy and they keep coming back, then that is what I should keep doing. Everyone's situation is different to some extent. Long story short, do what works for you. Thank you for adding me to this great group of chandlers.

Edited by slmiller166
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/7/2018 at 12:38 AM, LitUp said:

We use 464 wax with about 9% FO and use hemp wicks, been great for us for the last 4 years but one of our selling points is how strong our cold and hot throws are.

I'm pretty sure I know what a hot throw is, but what is a COLD throw?

Q

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, slmiller166 said:

All I know is is that there is so much different information out there (most of it is reliable) on the same (any) subject when it comes to candle making. For me, it comes down to trial and error, keep detailed notes and take everything else in and write it in my notes. There is so much relying on room temps, pour temps, this wick, that wick, how much dye is being used, liquid dye, dye chips on and on. If my candles and wax melts make customers happy and they keep coming back, then that is what I should keep doing. Everyone's situation is different to some extent. Long story short, do what works for you. Thank you for adding me to this great group of chandlers.

 

Well said! and welcome to Craft Server!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Quentin said:

I'm pretty sure I know what a hot throw is, but what is a COLD throw?

Q

 

Cold throw or CT is how the unlit candle smells. Hot throw or HT is the scent throw from a burning candle.

 

Wanted to add if you sell your candles the cold throw is almost as important as the hot. It is what initially sells the candle. So you really want both.

Edited by Candybee
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, Quentin said:

I'm pretty sure I know what a hot throw is, but what is a COLD throw?

Q

Cold throw is how the candle smells when it is not lit or doesn't have a pool of melted wax in it. It's what the solid wax smells like. 

 

ETA: oops, I see Candybee already answered this. :)

Edited by Jcandleattic
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/18/2018 at 9:51 AM, Quentin said:

one of our selling points is how strong our cold and hot throws are.

That's what I'm looking for, a cold throw that will draw them off the aisles and a hot throw that will make them want to come see me again.  Before I found this forum, I just bought fragrance off the internet, Hobby Lobby, and Michael's. My decision was made by price, the name of the fragrance or sometimes, even if I just thought the bottle looked nicer that the competition. How stupid can it get? 

 

I now have a hodgepodge (sp?) of fragrance bottles that don't seem to have any logical connection to each other. I'm sure there are some good ones in there, but I'm NOT GETTING ANY THROW AT ALL.:faint:  It all smells nice in the bottle, and even better on one of those little paper test strips. All of them have a strong throw when mixing in the pot, but put it in a candle?... forget it. I've followed the general rule I've gotten in this forum to stick to the 6% mark. The best hot throw I ever got smelled like Kerosene to me.:lol: 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Quentin I may have missed it, but tell us what container you are using, wick, and how long you are letting your testers cure.  Someone may be able to help you zero in on a few things to try.  Have you any fragrance oils from online companies like Candlescience, Fillmore, Nature's Garden, Aztec, Flaming Candle. . .?  

GoldieMN

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Triple scented" and "double scented" candles sometimes contain as much as 12% FO. Additives such as vybar can be used to bind the extra FO and keep it from sweating out. But then there's sooting and such to be concerned with. Candlewic's March En-Light-ener newsletter lightly touches on the topic.

 

One important variable with hot throw is the melt pool temperature. Many of us are having to wick down due to the recent soy waxes burning more easily than before. Unfortunately, those smaller wicks aren't producing enough heat.

 

I'll admit that I once tried to make 464 melts with a 12% FO load. That was a mistake. Not only did they stick to the clamshell but months later they had a crumbly yet moist texture. Definitely not doing that again.

Edited by Kerven
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Kerven said:

 One important variable with hot throw is the melt pool temperature. Many of us are having to wick down due to the recent soy waxes burning more easily than before. Unfortunately, those smaller wicks aren't producing enough heat.

Bingo. Wrong wick materials and wick series for the job. 

 

As as far as double and triple scented, they are not talking about the watered down, inexpensive retail versions we have readily  available on every corner. Pro scents are really concentrated. 1%, 2%, 3% etc blow you away.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/24/2018 at 6:39 PM, Moonstar said:

I'm on a FB group and read lots of great reviews. 

naturesitems.com

I'm in that group and I have purchased from them as well. They are not blow your socks off amazing or anything, but they are decent. I do not like the owner at all. He created that group on Facebook to help new candle makers, but that group is actually the exact reason I made this post. All he does is try to sell his fragrances to everyone in the group and tell all these new candle makers to use 12% so they all use a ton of his fragrances and he's raking in the money from all these newbies. He also tells everyone that letting soy cool to 100° before pouring is his method that he made up. I don't like the guy at all. I find his practices to be very deceiving. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...